dajogejr

The whole purpose of this box is to allow clutchless upshifts by iterrupting your ignition... You already have a cut tranny...which allows this... Am I missing something? The only benefit I see from this (maybe I'm reading this wrong...) is that it'll interrupt the ignition for clutchless upshifts, which...your override already does. Why would you need anything for off the line? What am I missing?? :shrug:

carbparts.com, sudco.com, magicracing.com You are too lean with no air box, Toomeys and at 280....try 320 and keep going up. As said, in softer surfaces with just some minor bolt on mods, it might not pull 6th great... I had every bolt on you can get last year before my cub motor, we hit some sandy, sandy trails and no matter how long I pinned 5th, it would not pull 6th...just kinda blah....downshifted and it was screaming!

Most people don't.... The porcelin tip can take some time to color...but if done correctly, a plug chop will color in one WOT run. On mine, my tip isn't colored after 5 to 10 runs down the strip, but if I get a flashlight and shine it in, I can see the smoke ring is a little dark...so, it's all good. I could proabably lean mine out more...but, it runs good and is very safe, plus...winter's comin up round these parts.

I'd wouldn't use the spacers...you really only need them with aftermarket carbs to clear the clutch arm...other than the "bling" factor... I'd agree...somewheres in the 330ish range.

carbparts.com or sudco.com ducman...don't forget...he's at 5000 feet. So...whatever your jetting is going to have to be leaned out for his high ele....but you more than steered him in the right direction!!!

ahh...got it. I'd get an override tranny, dunable or "trail" style...rather than let an electronic piece interrupt my ignition.... just click it and go...no worries...

You can find a used banshee frame for a few hundred dollars...J or A arm style. Once you figure out how many man hours and custom fabrication it's going to take to shoehorn a banshee motor in there, you'll be better off with a used frame, shaved of all unneccessary brackets, and be happier....

I'd stay away from 'em. Bore your own to 28...or, pick up something a little more "reputable..." Stay away from the fake Keihins on ebay, too....

You're going to spend an hour pounding them out, heating it up...etc., only to realize you damaged them and can't reuse them. The bearing and seal kit is about 50 bucks...trust me, it's worth it!!

Get a dunable override...do a search...

Yeah, you ain't kidding there.... (thanks for the stickies by the way...homie...) When I fix my computer at home, I'll be sure to send the "updated" version of RAM BIG HORN, Version 2.0.... :yelrotflmao:

Pipes and air filters. FMF or PT mids would be good for MXing... You can probably pick up a used set of Chrome in good shape for around 250 to 300. Air filter with proflow and Outerwear for another hundred or so. Then, get a lightened flywheel and adjustable timing plate if you can.... That would make it a good mxer bike...

I have a dyna CDI on mine. I bought one with wiring plugs to fit my year ignition (96)... If you're going to buy one from a different year than what you own...get out the clymers to match up the wiring.... To be honest, unless you have a dyno nearby and a laptop, cable and software to program the dyna, it's not worth the extra cost over a stocker CDI you can get new from Ricky Stator @ 125.00. I plan on getting to a dyno one of these days...or just sending mine out to get reprogrammed... I"m told Andy @ Grand River Racing has a very good program for them....

Exactly what I was going to say... The hot rod crank is "welded" from the factory. badassbanshee479 on here had the crank...and it split on him. Either a factory crank or aftermarket crank should be rewelded for reliability... Twister cranks are nice, but overpriced IMO....

Build, motor, gearing, tires, surface, temps, elevation, bike weight, rider weight, rider skill....and I'm sure I forgot a few.... If you're looking for something to gauge against your buddies, I can make it much easier... Just go out and race them, period... There is no such thing as a fully modified banshee, it's only in a phase before the next round of mods...trust me on that one. No one is ever done "building" thier bike...there's always something else to do....

You are MUCH better off going with Jeff... All that needs to be done is cleaning up the casting, trust me....and Jeff does that very well. Cubs already have drag port timings....so what RDZ will probably do is clean them up a bit, raise the exhaust a hair, MAYBE...and take more of your money. I'll bet Jeff's setup is cheaper and runs better...period. Plus, his customer service is the best I've heard of or seen... You'll be on the phone with him a good hour ordering all this stuff, and he'll go over the WHOLE motor, spark plug to drain plug with what you really need.

It's at least ring time...and get the piston to wall clearances measure, more like a fresh top end probably. Since you mentioned sucking sand, now would probably be a good time to tear the bottom half down, get new bearings on the crank...and have it welded as well. Sand has a way of kissing your crank bye bye.... Sure, you can ride the piss out of it...it's only going to cost you more when the motor let's go... Less than 100PSI and it's rebuild time, period...(at or near sea level anyways, which...you are at.)

I'm just an HQ legend because I blab a lot (and I"m bored at work and try to stay home for the most part, to save money for my "toy"...) Since you mentioned trails...which I'm glad you did, I'd put the money in suspension first. All that power won't do a lick of good without being able to put it to the ground. The cheap way is to get your stock rear revalved/resprung for your weight and riding style, and pick up some YFZ 450 front shocks. But...the right way is to get some nice aftermarket a Arms, I'd recommend +2 +1 and some nice shocks. Even cheapo Works shocks will be better than stockers. But, you get what you pay for... Elka sure are nice. I just got some Competition Marvin Shaws for mine...but, I drag race and dune ride. These shocks on your bike would probably rattle your fillings loose on trails!! But for what I do...they work great. Members here and ebay is a good place to start to look for suspension upgrades...

IF your stock crank is not welded, it's only a matter of time before it goes. With 16cc domes you're most likely up over 200 PSI... You've also may benefit from another pipe design. T6 were designed for stock port motors, or slightly ported motors... 120 octane should be enough, depending on how much timing you have on it... If it were me, I'd throw 19cc domes in, advance the timing to +7 or +8...and use 110 octane.. 16cc are small, small domes. Those are designed for those living up in 3500 ft or more...since the compression will be considerably less up there...

Alt... If you at or near sea level, and run in the 65 to 90 degree temps, throw a 280 main in there... 230 is too lean with T6 pipes and no air lid....

Well...I would say try a new flywheel...but, it would follow with the coil wires... Have you tried a compression check, by any chance?? That's just odd...period.

There is a refurbished ASV lever dealer on ebay...you could save quite a few bucks...look him up.

Near sea level, as you're at...brand new it's between 125 to 130ish... 10PSI between the two...or, 10% of each other is a general rule. Once you start dipping near the 100 or 105PSI mark, you're gonna wanna freshen up the top end. Mine was at 110 beginning of last year...and I beat the tar out of mine. Near the end of the year, it wanted a few more kicks to get it started ( one tell tale sign of being worn)...but ripped once it got going....

I removed mine and put a steel plate the size of the opening on mine...no problems... You may or may not have to lean out the needle (the clip towards the blunt end one)... It richens the middle circuit...sometimes it's a little boggy without leaning the needle.

Do a search on it...there's a thread here by chase@miamiatv on what to unplug....with pictures.