dajogejr

I got mine from Jeff as well (in my sig) and he sold me the 6 inch angled for the back of my 35PWKs... to each is own... austin, just click on the link and read it. It tells you the prices for a standard override cut (non-dunable)..and the extra he charges for dunable, cryo treating, nuetral down, etc....

I'd talk to the man himself, Jim. He could help you jet his porting more than anyone on here....

Did you seal up the new intakes real good...new gaskets, etc. What needles are you using? Are you doing the WOT plug chop and getting it gray..?

Whitaker Racing in FL....that's where I'm getting mine from in the very near future. It was like 380 w/ core for a 1-5 dunable, nuetral down. I'll probably spend the extra few bucks and get it cryo treated as well. Look up W-C-R on ebay..or here you go: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Yamaha-Bans...sspagenameZWDVW Austin, I think those larger filters are a waste of money...just going to take longer to clean and take more oil once cleaned.

Yeah, that's what I was thinking J.... If it's that bad, it might be worth just getting a stock case used vs. trying to fabricate and weld it with not much material to work with....

If it's leaking coolant ...it'll over heat, possibly seize, possibly ruin a crank....your guess is as good as mine. Riding a bike with a known issue like this is just like sitting on a ticking time bomb...it's no longer if, it's when... And...the longer you ride it like this, the more it's going to cost to fix it...that's a promise!!

Try new plugs, try new caps on the end of the spark plug leads. Your jetting is close enough to get it to run....and probably run well. I'm going to assume since you have 35's ALL of the old Tors stuff is removed and properly disconnected....including the thumb throttle and parking brake TORS junk. You can ohm out the stator and coil...no way to check a CDI that I know of... When you put it back together, what did you set the flywheel air gap at for the pickup? Book calls for .020...try .015. If the electrical checks out...time for a leak down test. When I first built my motor, I tried every jet in the stock carb from 380 down to 220s. Every needle position on two different needles....and it was rich no MATTER what... Ended up being the base and deck of the cylinder weren't sealed.... I'd honestly say at 150 mains, it MIGHT be rich...but good enough to run without backfiring and popping. Check electrical first, then leak down test it.... If you need a leak down tester, you can build your own...or spend a couple bucks more and buy a kit already made and ready to go. Bob @ RB racing sells a good one. PM him here at machwon...or call him @ (517) 388-3662.

Rear brake rotor, with the factory drilled holes? (I have a solid rear rotor and it eats pads....)

A little carbon is ok, too much means you're too rich...

Temp, elevation...type of premix and oil ratio? Are you looking at the insulator nose or doing a proper plug chop? http://www.dfn.com/benkaren/plugchop.html I run 150 mains in my 4 mil cub, which has drag port timings out of the box... Don't be surprised if you go down to a 142, 145 or so on that build, but I wouldn't read the plug at the tip, you need to do the chop. How does it run, by the way?

bizzump...

You're going to have to have it machined...as said, because there is aluminium behind that vanity cover. To be honest, I'd just get a lockup cover...and be done. That way, should you decide to go lockup...all you need is the plate. How often are you taking your clutch cover off to perform maintenance...anyways??

Depending on how bad it is. You're going to dissasemble and clean the case half inside out before you get it welded. Depending on how bad it is, you MIGHT want to puchase a used case...they're really not that much...

And get the head cut with the long rod kit. A 4 mil long rod crank is a direct drop in...just be sure to have it re-welded by a reputable builder before you drop her in...

badassbanshee479 had (has) a drag ported 4 mil cub that was running on gas last year, on 39PWKs...and it was very impressive. Of course this year he switched to alky, etc....but, his drag ported cub on 39's was impressive... I agree...any will be a good choice. I love my 35's. But, I think if alky is in your future, 39's would be the way to go!!!

It just uses a rubber oring and two springs to seal it. You can buy the kit from Magic Racing for 10 bucks, it has springs and rubber or rings for both sides. Don't know if that's going to fix it...but, or 10 bones, I know I'd try that first..... And, yes...if it was the coil, it would follow the wire...

please list ALL mods, including pipes, etc.

When I had my T5's and K&Ns...I could use a 25 or 27.5 pilot jet and it ran fine. 30's are too big. A leak down kit will come with 4 rubber plugs, 2 for the exhaust, 2 for the intakes. You pressurize the motor with 6PSI for 10 minutes....it should hold, or...drop less than 1PSI per minute.

Not that I'm doubting your own bike, but I've never heard of raising your main due to a .020 overbore. Now...if the bike was improperly jetted before the fresh top end, I'd say so...but, if it was jetted correctly before the .020, it should be the same with the .020.... Actually...after just re-reading this post...280 is probably rich, but safe. Airbox with lid and pipes is usally 260 ish...but, 280 and it should still run, and run pretty well.

IT will show you what you can't see with your eyes. It will pressurize the internals of the motor to test for bad gaskets, seals, etc. Crank seals are the biggest pain, since the cases have to be split. Not hard, just time consuming!! You may have an electrical problem...but until I knew my motor was sealed, you can spend a ton of money and headaches trying to fix a problem that isn't....

Chase...PM me your email address...wanna get you some pics. Thought I had it...guess I don't...

I would add you won't have any "mid" power with Shearers... They make a ton of power in a very, VERY narrow stretch...about a 2500 to 3500 RPM range. Unless you're looking to go full drag with that bike, or dune it wide open most of the time, I'd keep the T5s. They're great all around pipes, which will respond well to porting. Once you're ported, it'll run 35PWKs all day long...stock or aftermarket cylinder. You'll lose some off the bottom, but...you'll have more on top! To be honest, once you start going with a drag style pipe and larger carbs...it's really time to get rid of the airbox. They make boots that clamp on to larger carb bodies that go to your airbox, but with CPIs Or Shearers...you're going to have to hack your aibox to shit to get it to work anywho.... Then it's pretty much defeating the purpose. You're better off with pod K&Ns and outerwears....

First thing I thought..but, he said 135 per side...fresh bore. That's about perfect...

I'd say goodbye to both of them, Kai... To be honest, after a year and a half, You're not going to change and neither is she. 5 days is nothing in comparison to a year and a half. Take a breather, move on.... You've spent the last 11.5 years of your life with someone, a wife then a girlfriend. Go live a little...and have some fun...

Leak down test time... You've covered your basics... If swapping your plug wires didn't help...time to test the motor for a leak. PM Machwon on here for a good price on a sturdy and easy to use leakdown kit tester...