dajogejr

Honestly Bro...that is a STEAL for those carbs and air filters. I got a great price on mine, ONLY bought the carbs without air filters and I paid a tad more than that. (As said, still a good price though)... You should have NO problems selling those. Free bump....best of luck!

Yeah, I've been to the dunes once this year, a long weekend of playing with jetting (every one known to man) only to find out it was leaking air...base AND head. Needless to say, (and insert sound of knocking on wood) three perfect trips to the 300ft sand drags on my new motor, and I'm stoked to get out there! JT (badass479...) had a similar setup last year as I do now (he has 39PWKs and drag porting) ...and now he switched to override, alky and a lockup, which...I'm planning on getting later this year. I know he's gonna whoop me (unless I anchor him in the sand without him noticing...he he..) but, he and I are both very curious to see how each of our bike compare to each other.... And...since I'm dying to get alky and an override on mine, I might have to convince him to let me take his for a quick ride... Problem is, once I ride it on alky and OR....I'm pushing it up my list that much sooner...and I might not come back on his bike...

You are damn right!! I consider myself pretty good, not great, not a beginner...and I still miss shifts or it flat out won't shift period on my stock tranny. I'm going to get the 1-5 dunable with neutral down on my bike very, very soon. I too launch in 2nd, with 14/42 gearing and 21 inch, 72 RO rear paddles. I tried 15 up front and launching in 1st, didn't like it at all. I agree the straight cut gears are a good idea on a 10mil, but...2nd gear stock should be ok. Look at the second gear from A&S as well as Grand River racing, too. Not sure who has the best price...

If you're using a mix of 111 and 93 octane gas in a 210 PSI motor, you're going to have to worry about that crank and piston set VERY soon.... Race gas does stay good longer, provided it's stored properly. However, at that compression....I wouldn't even think about running anything less than 110 straight race gas, and you might want to keep the timing very low...if it isn't stock (4 degrees or so). It's a crap shoot with the crank. It's going to go....sooner or later. Do you spend the money now and get it welded for insurance, or....do you chance it so you can ride without a tear down? I got to be honest, if you do decide to ride it for a while and not weld the crank, for less than 100 bucks you could have a set of 19cc domes and Oring kit...and it would probably be much easier on that stock crank. It should be welded, regardless...but, you could be "safer" with less compression. I bet that biyatch just about wears through your boot when kicking it...god help you if it kicks back, might cost you a limb.... :laugh:

Great pipes...I got them. RDZ and Shearer inframes are the same pipe...silencer design is a little different, though...not much. RDZ no longer makes inframes that I know of. You can get SHOW Chrome Shearer inframes for cheaper than 750 like this guy is claiming he paid for them..although, if he bought them from RDZ, he might have paid that much. I think they're around 450 new in bare metal, and another 150 for show chrome, but I'm not 100% positive on that. I have show chrome...it is nice. I saw their standard Chrome, ok...but, not great. aubanshee....what is done to your banshee? Just to help you out, these are top end (high RPM) drag orientated pipes. So, they make a lot of power, but...in a very narrow RPM range. Not what you want for trail riding....and they work much better on a ported motor with bigger than stock carbs.

Hard to say until you get it running and ride it.... Your time and other nickel and dime stuff will be the factor there. I've always wanted a little pit bike to play on. My friends trick out some fiddy's like no other, and it funny as hell watching these guys do some of the stunts they do on 'em. Full grown men all cramped up on a litte fiddy...good stuff. Funny stuff: http://www.sonicjay.com/m50m/index.htm

I never said you said king kong grip. What I said is no matter how tight you tighten these bolts, they WILL not affect the clutch pull. That's a fact. You run a Tusk clutch? Sorry to hear that. So...you went and bought a Tusk clutch that comes with HD springs, but went and bought EBC (yes, EBC not EBS) springs on top of it?? Sorry...I've never used or installed the Tusk, and wouldn't dream of it on my bike. I can tell you from experience street bike clutch kits, EBC and Barnett do NOT have the tabs. You've got another user on here saying the same thing about the EBC HD springs....so, it's not just me. What is really ashame is your big keyboard mouth calling me a crying ass pussy with an ego... I'm just stating the facts, rookie....get over yourself. Find another user on here that agrees with you about "overtightening" these bolts and if it will effect clutch pull... :: :yankyank: If you don't like my posts, don't read 'em.... OK....a cable luber is obviously the best means...but, in a pinch. Remove the cable, either way. It's really the easiest way to work on it. Aside from MDS's post (good idea) here's another way. Take a piece of paper and try to make a funnel with it. I've always used WD-40 or PB Blaster type lube, it's thin and spreads pretty quickly. Nuthin wrong with ATF.... Sometimes it helps to move the cable in and out of the sleeve in order to get the lube around the bends and any pinched points. GOod luck....

I think me an my buddy are going up early Thursday morning. That gives us (him) Thursday and Friday to get the bugs worked out and the jetting dialed.... I honestly think mine's good to go. I'm a tad rich on the pilots...but, don't spend much time there... I think you should just buy 155 and 160. I'd bet 170 and 180 are WAY off the mark for your bike. I'd put the 160 in and see how much better it is. I know how you feel about no-where to ride. Why don't you come out to Clarksville with us this weekend? It's Saturday, test and tune, as many passes as you can make for 20bucks.... It's about a 2 hour drive from us.... Bring a ton of Jets, and we'll get her dialed in....

svrd, we're damn near neighbors... St. Clair Shores here...

Running that bike with turf tamers in the trails is like taking a top fuel funny car to the grocery store... It's meant for dunes and drag, which...means ashphalt slicks or paddles....

He he he he... I'm taking you up on your offer for the 11 row tallers for Saturday...I'm going to borrow some 14 row from E, just for the hell of it. What's 8 bolts for a pair of wheels to try out...

You should SMOKE any 450 or piped banshee...period, if you get the rear tires to hook up and keep the front end sane... With a 4 mil cub, Shearers and 35's...you're in the ballpark of 95HP, give or take....

Aww...snap.... If you could top a riding trip with the Clarks...a trip to Vegas would be it. Damn...wish I could be there for that!! :beer: :beer: :beer: :beer: :beer: Tell us the truth...Steven. Did you ride her...pretend to ride with air handlebars and make noises like you were banging gears... Whaaaa.....Whaaaa....Whaaaaaaa.......Whaaaaaaa....... Admit it, your pickup line involved "owning a Rocket Pipe, wanna see it"....

First....you if you over tighten the clutch bolts, and I'm talking about the ones that hold the springs down (6 of them, 10mm head) you will break them off. They WILL NOT make a difference in your clutch lever pull. They bottom out....on the inner hub. Sorry... Aftermarket plates do not have to be aligned, only stock ones. They have a tab on the steel plates that are supposed to be rotated every 60 degrees... There are no tabs on the steels of aftermarket. If you can't tell the difference between HD springs and stock springs, you have the grip of Popeye or the HD springs you used are junk, period. I went from a stock clutch, to 3 Barnett HD and 3 stock and noticed a difference. I went from 3/3 last year, to all 6 HD Barnett springs this year, and...yeah, even bigger difference....

Jay...you have some work done by FAST. I would bet my left nut Jeff is no where NEAR 330 for case trenching...why don't you just call him and see what he says. Few will argue Dave Moore is one of the best names in the sport. He's seen and done it all...and his work is TOP NOTCH. ON his website, banshee case trenching, 120. http://www.davemooreracing.com/case_mods.php

I would agree with Toomey Banshee....except for two things. 15/41 gearing in my opinion would suck on trails....Too tall. Stock gearing is fine. And with airbox, no lid, 280 to 290 on the main. I think a 15 is too tall for a stock motor banshee with pipes and an air filter. Hell, I run 14/42 on my cub motor which has 2.5 times the power of a piped/jetted shee with an air filter.... But, gearing and chain adjustment is easy....so, take your pick...

1st....does the 330 include dissasembly of the motor and reassembly...than yes. If it's just you bringing in the lower half and for machine work only, 330 is a rip. You answered your own question....the guy doesn't realize or know you're sharp enough to shop around when his price is 3 to 4 times what other shops charge. I've NEVER seen it done for 50....but, 100 to 150 is probably the average...

WHOAAA...and I thought I had it bad being 240 miles out from metro-Detroit. You'd be a yooper road trooper for sure if you made that gig...

Mears, MI.... From Traverse city it's roughly about 120 miles south/southwest. Closer for you than it is us Metro-Detroiters... Call David Allan Racing. It's literally right outside the parking lot for the dunes. They **Might** rent paddles, I'm not 100% sure.

Normally...I'd say hell yes. But, since I just got my RAM, I'm just a little curious how it does on a long trip, etc.... Next year, you, me and Bob will have to make some plans for sure. He's getting his 4 poke back together this weekend. That 570 kit should make it pretty impressive... If Bob ends up crapping out on the dune trip, I might take you up on that, though...meet you at your crib and roll...split the fuel and hotel. We'll see...got 6 weeks still!!!

Hi Audrey... If the cable is in question of frays or wear, replace it. I think they're like 12 bucks. Remove all the parking brake crap and get a new perch with an ez pull lever. Another 30 bucks and 10 bucks for the block off plate. If this doesn't help...you have Heavy Duty springs. If your motor is lightly modded, stock should be fine, or a mix of 3 HD and 3 stock. I put 3 of each in mine. You can't tighten down the 6 bolts for the clutch too much...they'll snap like a pretzel. 7.5 ft. lbs of torque on them. (We've probably all snapped a bolt or two on the clutch)... HD springs are usually gold in color, thick, and tall. On my T5 piped, shaved flywheel, +4 timing bike last year, 3 and 3 lasted all year, and I'm still using the same clutch today in my 4 mil cub that is putting out 2.5 times more power than my build last year.

YES. And use a thin layer of high temp RTV for insurance. I learned this one the hard way.... 4 gaskets total. One on either side of the reed block. Intake and cylinder side. If you're just replacing the pedals, you'll have to buy gaskets. When I bought my VForce...they came with new gaskets (for the price of them, they should install themselves, too... )

Rain is no big deal, deep puddles are. If you plan on making a conscious effort to avoid or take it easy through puddles....you'll be fine. What do you mean about chain and sprockets? Are yours worn? are you looking to change your gearing? I don't understand what exactly you mean by changing the chain and sprockets...??

Tim...you've got PM on this....

Word... They add 2 mental HP for the bling... I bought a set for my cub, 40 bucks plus shipping for some beautiful NOSS spacers. I think I sold 'em for 25 or so plus shipping. Never ran on my bike... Damn...they looked nice though...