dajogejr

I don't like the CPIs...for a few reasons. I don't like how they fit through the air filter area....and, I think those beer kegs make it hard to change plugs. I've read more often than not...Shearers make more power, but CPIs make a little broader spread of power. I have Shearers... (RDZ inframes are the same as Shearers, RDZ no longer makes inframes.) I love them. I do have Show Chrome though...their standard chrome leaves a little to be desired. A lot of people have to shim the left side or it hits the head. so...about a 1/2 inch of washers or a spacer are all that you need at the front pipe mount, no big deal. Other than that...fit and finish are nice. I especially love the design how they go up and over your air filters, no need to worry about melting an outerwear or filter.... CPIs have a little more bottom, but Shearers have more power on top and rev out further.... I would love to go out of frame...but, Silver Lake can and has tested for noise...and spark arrestors are mandatory. I know there are "ways" around that...but, if you get caught...the fine is not worth it. If I rode in areas that didn't have noise or spark arrestor restrictions, I'd have Shearer out of frames in a heartbeat....

What are your mods?

78.6% feedback rating.... Thanks...but no thanks.

You and me both!! In the forest, trails...ok, MAYBE...but dunes? C'mon now... I'd love to see mythbusters bust it....and flood DNR offices with a video tape, letters, etc.... They're just a money maker, that's all....

Also... Be sure the thread lenght of the compression tester is the same as the spark plug thread length...the chamber or dome must be full, as it would be in running conditions, to get a true reading. If the fitting is shorter....you can easily add quite a few PSI...but probably less than 10. For 60 bucks you can get a complete small engine and automotive tester...you went top dollar... If it still reads the same, try squirting some 2 stroke oil in each of the cylinders....and try the reading again. If it bumps up pretty good from the oil...then, you're due for a top end. I just can't believe it'll start that easy if the compression is accurate!! Another dumb question....you did hold the throttle wide open when kicking, and you kept on a kicking until it would no longer climb, correct?

I have....it was because the piston was starting to come apart. Trust me...it didn't run much longer after that....

125ish new. Not with 50 hours on it.

I know when you buy one from Ricky Stator is comes with directions....you pretty much line up the center case split (where the top half and bottom half meet) with the correct number on the plate. It's really that simple.

Very nice.... I've ridden in a power stroke with a cheater or "Stealth" system in it. 4 stages, chosen by the click of a knob my buddy had hidden in his ashtray fold down. I've never seen a big, heavy ass diesel roast a set of 35's on pavement (all 4 tires) like this...it was sick....just by putting this stealth box in. Those diesels can run fo sho.....

It doesn't matter if the pistons are at TDC or not... You're testing all seals.. Be very, very careful when using your air compressor. You only want to put in 6lbs of pressure, and it should hold for 6 to 10 minutes. Much more PSI than that...and you will pop something...so, just be careful!!! Good luck!

What is your elevation? That can have a HUGE effect on static compression. Also...it starts first kick? I'd try another compression tester... Normally, if compression is that low...and you're at or near sea level...it won't start unless you push start it....or kick your leg off... Hell, my old bike had 105 or so PSI...and it took me 8 or 10 kicks to start it up....

I second that.... Before I built my cub motor, I called the local MI guys as well as a few others. But, if they don't return my call or answer the phone...how are they going to treat me when I buy 3 or 4K worth of stuff off them. Not to mention Jeff smoked their pricing... JT (badassbanshee479) and I talked about this in depth Saturday on the ride out to the track. I've called Jeff dozens of times....weekends, you name it. If he didn't answer the phone (which, he does answer probably 75% of the time...) He will call you back. Hell...if you talk to him, ask him something....he'll sit there and stew on it and often times call you back again with another idea or answer. I agree....make the phone calls and decide who treats you the best and has fair pricing...

Werx....you need to do a leakdown test. I just went through this...no matter what pilot, needle clip on two different needles, or main i put it...it would start and idle perfectly. I put it under load and blaaahhh...fell right on it's face. A leak down test will test the "innards" of the motor. Head and base gasket, crank seals, etc. From what I've read, you've done a complete tear down and cleaning of the carbs and intakes...but, there's more to it than that. It's either electrical or an air leak...and I'm gunning towards an air leak at this point. PM Machwon on this board, he sells an inexpensive and complete leak down tester kit.... Before you go spend a TON of money on electrical and ignition parts, test for "other" leaks first....

I bought rubber hose from Magic Racing for mine when I bought my T5's. I bought aluminum clamps from kotin6, and they didn't have the rubber inside, just metal. The rubber hose I bought for my T5s worked just fine, and I had to trim the ends a little so they didn't stick out.... Not as big of a deal on Shearers....the pipe fits pretty deep into the stinger tube...and they clear your air filters very, very nicely!

Here you go... http://www.dfn.com/benkaren/plugchop.html 03...I'm sure you know this already, but you are missing out on a few HP with those T5s on there.... A better breathing pipe like a Shearer, CPI, etc., would give you some more top. Take it from me...I had T5s and stock carbs on my 421 cub when I first put it together....

I'd buy a 4 mil cub, period. Clean up port, Shearer or CPI Pipes and 35PWKs. You've saved up 3K...save a little more. Look for used carbs and pipes in good shape to save a few bucks. You can sell your stock cylinders, 1 into 2 carb setup, stock carbs and PC Pipes and silencers to offset a lot of the cost. In my opinion, a 7mm motor is a waste. You can build a 10mm for the same price....so why not go bigger? Get a good clutch setup, Jeff from FAST sells all this stuff, and his clutch setup is killer. You're also going to want a 4 to 8 over swingarm....new chain, brake line, etc. Twister makes nice stuff...you're going to pay dearly for it. I personally think for the money a 4 mil cub properly setup is the best bang for your buck out, is very fast....and will run for some time.

1 into 2 33PWK or 35PWK...

Mikuni mains run at 10 intervals, 200, 210, 220, etc. They normally come with anywhere from 190 to 210 mains, depending on your location and climate. Some dealers rejet 'em as well before they sell 'em. They are normally rich from the factory for a few reasons. rich won't burn your motor down and the stock pipe and air filter are so restrictive, it doesn't need that much gas.

True that Denny. I Only spent time in the banshee section of E2S...and I think I only joined a month or so ago. I just wasn't impressed at all with that particular section... Yeah, it's moderately WAY too heavy...and, if you think HQ is "clicky"....PS is over the top buddy buddy on there. I agree...site sponsors could get away with anything, OJ style...

Remove your snorkel, and put 250 mains in. You might want to lean out your needle one clip due to your elevation...if it runs kinda blubbery in the middle. Stock pilots are fine, 1.0 to 2.0 out...see which setting on the air screws gets it running the best.... Then, do a plug chop. Stock filter and stock airbox at 3500 feet, I think you'll be safe with 250s, if not a little rich... http://www.dfn.com/benkaren/plugchop.html

Ok...wasn't sure by your first post... What is your airbox situation? Snorkel/lid/airbox??? K&N??

??? Try planetsand.com sometime. There is more information on that site than you could stomach in a week.... From old 250Rs to the new batch of SuperCubs...that's the place for some extensive knowledge.... I'm not knocking the HQ...but when it comes to tech specs or information...that is the best site out hands down. However, I can't stand their layout....HQ is 10X better....

warm the bike up completely. Turn each air screw all the way in. Turn it out 1/2 turn, wait 20 seconds for this setting to take effect. Keep going out 1/2 turn at a time, waiting each time, and get the highest idle you can. Then the air screws are set.

It would be wise... Builders vary on their preference of squish, gas or alky... I think an average is .045 or so...some like more, some like less.

Is it already correctly jetted for the pipes? If so...you may have to bump up one on the main...if anything. Compression changes and timing changes normally don't require a change in jetting, ever so small if they do. Do yourself a favor, and get a compression test done on that motor now. Be a shame to see you pop a motor because you didn't have enough octane...