dajogejr

Yeah...even though not a SINGLE forest fire has ever been linked to ATV/Motorcyle riding (other than drunks and a camp fire...)...I can't say it wouldn't happen. I don't ride trails anymore...but, once I get a 4 poke, I will be. I have no problems there. But, the dunes??? C'mon now....they let you have camp fires near the beach on the sand... Let's see...campfire vs. stray spark....hmm...tough call. DNR are pricks here too, Josh... It's all about the $$

Heck, Bill.... Since you're welding the crank, go .020. See how you like it...and check the compression. You might even be able to run pump gas on that, depending on the compression. If you want to go more...take it off, get another .010 taken off... It's only a little for the machine work, gasket, time and a little coolant. If you didn't want to do it all over again, I'd say .025 and 50/50 SHOULD be pretty safe...but, always check to be sure!!

I would say your jetting is safe... As long as you didn't leave a circlip out of the piston, piston to cylinder clearances are ok, rings installed ok and the cylinders and head is tourqued down properly...you SHOULD be ok to start it and warm it. However, you should be ok to test it cold, too. It won't be a 100% accurate reading...normally your compression goes up a bit when warmed, as parts heat up and expand. Not to mention it'll probably go up a bit when the rings seat and break in. However...all that usually adds to 5 to 10 PSI, if even that much. It would be a very good idea to check it cold, just to be sure one isn't WAY OFF from the other!

Bill....you should be ok with 50/50....+4 and a .025 head. I wouldn't go too much more...unless you're prepared to have the crank welded for insurance. (Which, it should get welded, anyways....they're just pressed from the factory...) Even so...check the compression to be sure...each engine is different!!

Cut it at .030...if you don't mind running race fuel/mix. What is your timing set at?

Drag port with stock carbs and T5s?? Call Noss...he'll have everything you need.

Do you mean the clamp on over the top type (Sparkies) or the clip on type that removes and replaces the end cap? The second is a definate no. I think the Toomey silencers are too small in diameter to let their sparkies work on some PC ones. However....if you had an exhaust pipe expander....

Put the needle back in the 3rd clip. And...god damned I love your avitar!

I think it's a total waste of time. Get the ol Pink Panther Corning insulation....it works. Remove the paper, though...

I just threw a couple of them out... the bad part is...once it's up and running, you'll just be back on the streets.... lol The plugs are tapered. I think the exhaust hole is around 1 3/4 or so...but not 100% sure. Maybe a member that has an engine sitting on the bench can confirm....

You need to do a plug chop. 330 mains at 4300 feet is rich I'd bet...with or without the airbox. http://www.dfn.com/benkaren/plugchop.html

Good luck... Small tire size (I guess you got 18's) are gonna kill ya.... Here's a calculator to estimate, but it does not take into consideration if your motor can actually "pull" that gearing. I'd say with a good strong dune port it might...but, 90MPH on an 18 inch rear tire...is gonna be hard. You'll have to go 16/38 or so to do it...that's a HUGE gearing change.... When you say the wheels on back are smaller, do you mean the rim diameter, tire diameter??? Here's the calc: http://home.earthlink.net/~gellett/banshee.htm

What size motor (bore and stroke) are you going with in the next few months. Nope, big bore CPIs won't hurt a thing....they just won't perform very well until you make the motor to use them. Your first post is saying "not anytime soon"...but the latter says in a month or two. I'm confused... :shrug: IF it's going to be longer than a few months, get the T5s used. You can usually get them for a steal, and you really won't lose much money if anything when you sell them. They hold their value very well.

8mm stud I belive. You're gonna have to take it apart anyways to add it, match one up. I wouldn't start it without it. Could be fine...by why chance it on a .20 O Ring??

You probably retarded the timing instead of advancing it. And...if the lights don't work, you didn't hook up a wire or two. +4 is the norm. And ...usually you don't have to rejet for a timing advance if your jetting was correct before.

My buddy got his 450R frame done candy blue, valve cover and side cover done for 245 including prep, blast and paint.... Your price is about right....but, as said...you get what you pay for. It's gonna be shave and PC time for my bike after this year is over....

Well...considering you can buy a used set of Toomey pipes and silencers for 200 to 350...I'd say your chance of making a profit are slim to none... Brand new from Toomey, a silencer is 75.99. A black stinger tube is 15.99, and a Chrome Stinger Tube is 25.99.... Stingers and silencers from Toomey are 179.00 http://www.toomey.com/html/pipe_parts1.htm

Good advice there, JT... From now one, no one can say that I am the only long-winded poster here.... I think I've met my match... :yelrotflmao: :biggrin: The only thing I would add is... I'm a big fan of a shaved flywheel. I had many bolt ons as mentioned, including pod air filters and T5 Toomey pipes. They are a mid-top pipe as said. However....one I advanced the timing to +4 (the standard) and shaved my flywheel...it got on the pipe much sooner and became easier to ride..... I would also agree T5s are my favorite all around pipes. They do not have the best bottom, mid or top...but they are very good everywhere.... Aftermarket pipes are the single best mod you can make to a stock banshee...period. Also, don't forget properly setting up your suspension and get good tires, too...stock rear tires are pretty bad.

Since you didn't mention your head being shaved or aftermarket domes...your compression is fine. I definately wouldn't say 60% used up... 125ish is brand new...you are not far off that at all. Which...if great!! Go to Home Depot or Lowes. They make rubber plugs that work fine. Look in the furniture section, they have the boots that go over the leg of a chair to keep from marking up your flooring...I think I paid 2 or 3 bucks for a pack of two. measure your exhaust ID on the jugs...and get the right plugs. Stuff 'em in there good. 5 to 10% variance is acceptable...so, 2%, heck...you're mint! I would say 100PSI is top end time.... If there were holes in the piston, you'd have little or NO compression, depending on if the hole was on top, or it broke off near the ring lands.

Good for you!! Wiseco Pro Lites are hard to beat, reliability, price...etc. You don't buy high compression pistons for banshees....or two strokes for that matter. That is done by changing the volume of the head itself, in ccs. You can shave material off the base of the head to accomplish this. .020 to .030 is the norm.

Well...hold up on that.... You said you were using nobby tires, not slicks...right? They very well could be frying on the dyno at the peak power... Ride the bike. You will feel an 8HP loss at that RPM....and a 5HP gain 1000 RPM later.... If it doesn't feel like that from the seat, no reason to worry....

Y'ouch....helicoil on a cylinder? I'd bet Bob can weld and retap that.... He'll take good care of you...might as well get his opinion on your porting too!!!

Not sure if milling the head will get rid of that dip...but, porting will increase you pretty much everywhere... I honestly wouldn't be surprised if you could tune the jetting to get that dip out...possibly different needles and main... I'd ask for the air/fuel ratio from 7 to 9K RPM...and see if you can tune that out. Toomey pipes run very strong, I honestly don't believe the dyno charts on their site for the HP number...but, the curve looks/feels about right from the T5s I ran before.... They made great power from 6 to 9K RPM... I'd see if you're lean or rich in the RPMs as stated above, I'd be willing to bet you could tune that for a smoother curve.... No toomey bike I've ridden lost 8HP from 7K to 8500...only to gain 5HP from 8500 to 9K... Just my thoughts....

Welcome to the HQ... The first thing we need to know is what is currently on the bike (head, crank, exhaust, air filter system, etc.) Second, your budget....you can go as fast as your wallet lets you... I agree with Rocketboy. No need for a big Bore kit yet. Just get a tight motor.... A good port job can make you a total rocket...but, a bad one can make you a toad... Here's how it's really gonna play out...now that you have the sickness. Porting, fresh top end, and every other bolt on part. Higher compression head, ignition advance, lightened flywheel, reeds...etc. Then...it's gonna be fast again for a while...and when that while is over, get your wallet out...and be prepared to spend some money on a rocket!!

Wow...that's a huge dip at 8K or so.... 42ish is about right. Here's a dyno of mine when I had my cub redone, before I had an all new ignition, inframe drag pipes or bigger carbs. This run was done on stock carbs and T5 pipes. I'm not putting this up here to boast...only to show the big difference between a drag orientated motor to a stockish motor....when your bike is signing off...a drag bike is starting to make big power...in a very, very short range!