dajogejr

Eddie...how does it run with the 190 in there? Because of your elevation, stock bike with the exception of a removed snorkel and K&N, I'd say a 200 to 210 would be about right for you.

Do you have an airbox? Do you have the lid on? Put the needle back in the middle clip if you have stock needles (5 clips) or in the 4th clip from the blunt end going down (if you bought the Toomey/Dynojet needles, 6 clips)... 1/4 to 1/2 throttle is all needle....

Yep...sure can. Either wire can go on either cylinder.... It's a good idea..once you ruled out compression, plugged fuel line, dirty carbs, etc. It's not a first solution....merely a step in the process. Keep in mind, if the once silencer is loaded up with oil/gas...it might take some time to burn that off... As said, normally....if everything else checks out, it's a bad crank seal on the right side. It'll run...but, it's gonna suck in tranny fluid and cause big problems before long. If the crank seal is leaking on the left side...it'll suck air behind the Stator and flywheel, causing it to fall right on it's face after about 1/4 throttle, normally....

My advice is to use the proper gaskets new, each time. I'd also use a thin skim coat of high temp Orange/Red RTV on both sides as well...just enough to help fill in any imperfections. Unless the surfaces are way jacked up, you're pretty much gaurenteed a good seal, gasket to intake wise....

Well....you can always take more material off... I'd go .025...and see where that gets you.... To be honest, the stock bottom end is junk. It could last forever, it could blow on a bone stock motor. It's a craps shoot and game of luck. If you really start to dive into the engine, porting, etc....then it becomes even more of a neccessity... It's good insurance regardless...but, adding more power will for sure speed up the process.... It's hard to tell you to get it done if you just wanna throw a few bolt ons the shee...but, keep in the back of your mind, it's a good idea!!

Hey...Penny. Tell us what ALL your mods are, and we can get you close on jetting... A freshly built, properly tuned shee should start first or second kick, every time.

Also... Once you build a cub, be it stock bore/stroke or Big Bore stroker...you're gonna have to think about a longer swingarm, longer chain, etc....and most definately...Jeff's clutch. Then...suspension to get that all to the ground!!

Exactly.... Sorry to get back so late. 421 Cub, which...as said, is a 4 mil stroke crank with the 5 mil longer rods (115mm). They are big bore blaster pistons, 68mm. I bought my cub from Jeff, and all he did was clean up the flashing and castings imprerfections on it. I have a Noss head, not sure of the dome size...but, my compression is in the 185PSI range. This was on stock cages with boyseen reeds, stock carbs, T5 pipes, and 100% bone stock ignition with the timing set at +12. (Plate maxed out) I would bet just about every top builder uses Wiseco pistons... ON that.... I thought I could make my cub a trail bike by leaving the stock carbs and T5 pipes on it. I was wrong. BigRed said it best by saying "You'll have all kind of the wrong kind of power" when it comes to trails. You'll spend as much time locking up the brakes as you will being on the gas. So...I went the other way. Strict dune and drag bike, hence the 35mm carbs and inframe drag pipes. Soon, it'll be alky, cut trans and lockup.... If you're not going to be in the dunes or the drag strip most of the time, I'd agree and get a good strong port job on your cylinders. Don't get too caught up in a dyno number.... It's really only good for comparing mods back to back....

Ahh...that's what I thought, just wanted to be sure we're on the same page. I haven't heard 'em called Boysen ports before, just boost ports. Jim at Passion does this, called the Passion 12 port I think, but...he Tig welds extra material there.

test sounds good...however, you need to do it with the reed cages and the intakes on, only the carbs removed. Believe it or not....the intake is probaby the number one source of leaks, follwed by a crank seal. But, I'd say the rest of the motor is ready to go!!

I agree...timing is a cheap mod too. Put some grease on the threads of the flywheel puller before you screw it into the flywheel. Also...a 1/2 impact gun works much easier and nicer than a strap and breaker bar!!!

He's got the TORS removal kit...so, the brass tapped screws should be used to adjust the idle. At the thumb throttle is where slack is left, and the tops of the carbs are used to sync....

Yep...sure can. Swap coil wires from side to side....see if it follows the lead. Coils are cheap...and you can always put new NGK ends on them too...

Dude...that thing was a little squirrely....I'd bet it is slipping on the dyno...

Fair enough.... Since I'm in a bitching mode...can you turn the caps off so you're not "Shouting".... :yelrotflmao:

I'd bet if everyone stopped going there, and made it clear this is the reason...he'd find all kinds of time to groom it. Do you pay to ride there? That is just unnacceptable. Boycott the track...that will get things going. You could always go to another track.... :beer:

www.sandtoyzunlimited.com They'll have 'em. Or...look in the classified here or on planetsand.com

Are these stock silencers or aftermarket? Many aftermarkets can be dissasembled and repackaged (it might have oil in the packing...burning off)... Stock cans can't be taken apart. Err....they can be taken apart, they won't go back together again... Don't go over rich. Before you worry too much...drain whatever gas is in there. Get some good pump gas, mix it 32:1....and give that a shot. It could be a few things. One carb dirtier than the other, someone put mismatched jets in it...or, the unfortunate...a bad crank seal. Look at the plugs. Keep a very, very close eye on the tranny fluid and the level... Might not be a bad time to change the tranny fluid since you just got it as well...

I take it you mean the screws hold the float bowl on..... How many are stripped? Have you tried a longer bolt? I don't remember if stock carbs allow for a longer bolt or no....I don't think they'll allow you to go all the way through... There's not a lot of pressure on those...have you tried or thought about helicoiling them? PM Bigred350X. I know he works at a machine shop...maybe he'll have some better ideas...or can help you out...

Solid advice above here from Bill. Stock Mains are 200. Some dealers will install 190 or 210 depending on temp and elevation of their dealership... Eddie, what elevation are you riding at, and what temps are you riding in. Normally...if all you did was put a K&N in and remove the snorkel, I'd say go one to two richer on the main, and .5 turns in on the air screw. Needle should be fine in the middle clip....(stock)

No...I have the right user name. You've posted the same question in two entirely different threads.... One is in the Jetting and Exhaust forum. (Here) The other is in the reapirs and Mods forum.... Same user name. Same question. One at 2:11 PM, the other at 2:26 PM..... I'm sure it was a simple and honest mistake...but, either way...I hope it's answered for you.

What boysen ports are you referring to? Do you have a link or a picture??

Please....you've asked this question in two different forums, under two different user's threads. It's considered rude to "crap" on someone else's thread.... Your question was answered here: http://www.bansheehq.com/forums/index.php?...mp;#entry570493

Ride it...you'll be fine.

Without knowing your elevation...I'll take a stab at this taking into consideration I ride at 1000ft or less.... 125 PSI is stock, give or take. Each motor is different. IF your jetting is spot on...145ish to 160ish can need 50/50 race gas. 160ish and above usually needs race fuel. Now...of course, there's timing. Add some timing to that...and it can change. No one can give you a 100% certain answer, these are merely guidelines, and I think pretty safe ones at that. I've read people running 160PSI and pump gas, for years, no problems. Compression has more to do with the need to run race fuel than timing does. But, they both contribute in the overall need. Hope that makes sense.... :beer: