dajogejr

Aint' that the truth. I've only had my 4 mil this year, and I"m already thinking about a 10 mil next year.... Sad but true...

Stock pilots will be fine, year round on that setup. You'll probably have to adjust the air screws as the temps get colder, then warmer. HOwever....you need to do two things. One, get a clymers manual. The how/where/how again is covered...in details and photos. Two...a plug chop is best. This describes how to do that: http://www.dfn.com/benkaren/plugchop.html

Oh...nope. That'd be a problem... The lid seals the air filter to the air box....wihtout it, it just kinda sits in there. You have a few choices. Some people cut out the back 2/3 of the lid, opening it up...but leaving the front for sealing purposes. Some people buy a pro-flow kit, which is an aluminium adapter that bolts to the front the airbox, which, the filter then clamps to and seals to. If I just told you to remove the air lid and your jetting would be fine....I'd be doing you a disservice. In General terms....if it's too rich....yes, removing the lid could help...but, it's too general of a statement. Even if you remove the lid, you still need to jet it properly and read your plugs is what it boils down to.

You were good to go until right there. 1 to 2 main sizes maybe...and that's a big maybe... And with their stockish banshee, I think a Dyna woule be a total waste of money, I'd spend it on a timing plate and other mods. I fully agree...the 100 dollar "rev boxes" are junk....CDIs don't have a rev limiter on 2 strokes. The intake, exhaust and porting decide how much an engine can rev....

I'm not going to need them till the last weekend in October...when I hit Silver Lake. If you're still interested by then...I'll let ya know...

I really don't know a thing... I just hunt around 10 different sites for answers, cut...and paste...really it's that simple!! Hopefully....I've helped as much as I've learned, I'd be happy with that. And I strongly backup Animals statement with those members...as well as the Clark boys have always been there to answer questions and help out....along with my friends jankab and badassbanshee479 Plenty of unsung heros here....so, here's to you! :beer:

Regardless of wether the loctite will or will not work, it'd be a temporary work around... Once he takes it apart again, which...we all know will happen, he's right back to where he is now. Or...he can try and fix it right the first time!

Anytime you take a motor designed to make 33 to 35HP and triple that...yeah, it won't be as reliable as stock. That can be said about anything. I would say for the money....you get the most HP for your buck out of a cub. It definately makes more power out of the box than the TRex or Vito's monoblock...both need some extensive porting to catch up, whereas the cub needs a cleanup port. Larger stroke normally gives you more torque than HP...but, of course, HP increases as well. If money wasn't an object, my next motor would be a cheetah cylinder....they have power valves....and run very hard. I think you're confused.... A longer rod on a stroked crank makes it more reliable... The longer rod cuts down on the angle as the piston travels up and down, creating less stress on all parts involved...but, especially the piston. It's not trying to shove the piston through the cylinder wall quite as much.... I'm not trying to steer you away from a cub, they're great and I'm happier than shit I built mine. However...you mentioned budget. I don't think you'll be as happy on that budget as you would be with a set of good ported stock cylinders....

Penny....do you have a new CDI or a new coil? Which is it? Plugs should be gapped .025 to .028... Do a search on compression check, but...I don't think that is your problem. I agree...a "rev box" CDI is garbage, see if your stock CDI solves the problem.

Never used the thread repair, never heard of timecerts... I'd try the helicoil then tap route....

I'd go with helicoil, if you can find that small a metric size.... Makes perfect sense..

Nope...not trying to say it won't run with T5s...it surely will. But...I'd kind of liken it to having a top fuel dragster, with cherry bombs on it. Yep, it'll work...but, you'll be missing out...that's all. 900 for cubs (maybe a bit less) crank welded and a fresh top end is gonna run you 1200 or so. Doesn't leave much for a longer swingarm (which...you'll definately need for hill shooting" and a clutch to handle it.... I think with the few hundred you'd save by getting your own cylinders ported, you could spend that on other items you're gonna need ... Jeff will tell you, same thing he told me. It'll run with T5s...but, it'll run better with Shearers or CPIs...that's all.

With the lid on your main is rich, gaurenteed. That will not fix your 1/4 to 1/2 throttle dilemma... You have toomey needles. easyrider has it backwards...you want the clip on the 3rd from the pointed end....or the 4th position down (from the blunt end.).... You're too rich...need to lean it up a bit.

Figures...I jinxed meself... Started raining half way home...will get you a pic when I can...

Don't take this the wrong way, yes...I'm trying to be a smart ass, but not towards you. With some work, I can take a few ball point pen springs and put them on a banshee to work....but, doesn't mean that's what they were made for...

Total side note, mav....for, I'm not a banshee trail rider anymore, but....since you just got the bike with a NOSS head and are unsure of the dome size, a compression test would be a good idea to be sure you have enough octane!!! Welcome to the club.... :beer:

I'm due for new pics on my ride. As you know, I've got 13 3/4 on the rear, and 13 1/4 on the front....and love it! It's nice out today for once....and I just cleaned her up a bit. Will post some pics up for you later...and you can decide how much that 1/4 in or so will make a difference...

He he.... I sure wish the track looked like this last time out...

Yep...cooling system is all in all different than the cranking compression..... (Unless you have a bad seal or head gasket....then the two combine... ) :yelrotflmao: I would think Craftsman, Snapon, Matco and MAC tools would be fine quality... Also, you guys are using the thread in type adapters...not the universal rubber nozzle, right?

You haven't even scratched the surface of what I've been through with my cub motor this year.... Try spending 3 to 4 G's on a motor, swingarm, clutch, etc., and not being able to ride from Thursday to Sunday on a dune trip with about 10 other guys.... Ended up trying every jet and needle known to man....ended up being a base gasket leak, head surface sucking water (yep, brand new cub cylinder) and a shattered flywheel magnets... Not fun....

Nope...now...I wouldn't leave the gauge on for 3 or 4 days on end... You're measuring cylinder or cranking compression. Now, if you're talking leak down test, you don't use more than 6PSI...cause that can damage seals. Shato...I agree. My buddy is a city mechanic, and he has a snap on gauge. My other bud had an el cheapo automotive gauge. He tested his triple snowmobile, and I don't remember the exact specs, but one cylinder was 180, one was like 130...and the other was like 145. And this thing ran great. With the snapon....it was 140ish all across the board....

Well...whaddya know.... He PM'd me that he unplugged the TORs...and it's much better. Still has to fine tune it I'm sure.. Here is the whole TORS removal kit, including new Carb Caps, Throttle Cable, drill, tap and Idle screws for the carbs. http://www.magicracing.com/TORS-Eliminatio..._p_310-731.html

I'd agree then. Did you remove and/or take off the carbs when you put the milled head on? If so...either you made a mistake putting the carbs back together, or the jetting is way off. And to be honest....it might not run perfect, but it should be darned close with that jetting...

Nope...I remove both plugs (easier to kick...) Well...if your confident your gauge is accurate, it's top end time. The only other thing you can do is take the cylinders off and measure piston to wall clearance, then ring end gap...but, hell, once you get down that far...it makes sense to put a fresh top end it. To be honest...something doesn't sound right, I'd try another tester. 90 PSI and that thing would probably have to be pull started, IMO.....

I think you're still rich. That would explain easy starting...but a little boggy after it's warm. Especially if it got even worse when you pulled the choke. You're fine on the mains for now...maybe rich, but definately safe. Try turning your air screws all the way in, lightly seated, and turn each one 1.0 turns out. See if that helps. Do one setting at a time. Once you get your off idle to 1/8 throttle better, move to the needle. It's probably in the middle clip (stock). Try leaning it out one clip ...or one clip toward the blunt end. If all this jetting doesn't seem to make a difference at all....you might not have a properly sealed head.... With an air leak, you can try every jet setting in the world...and it won't hardly make any difference....