dajogejr

Aha...gotcha!!! Yep, any automotive store will sell a cooling system pressure tester. The same kit should be able to test your cap and the whole system. You can actually buy an automotive cap for your banshee, instead of getting raped by the dealer for one. Just make sure it's rated at the same PSI. Which...is the same PSI you test the system at. This one's a little pricey...but, it'll more than do the job. I'm sure your local auto parts store will have something. It might just be something simple like the cap... What is it doing by the way...to where you think it's running too hot?? http://www.sears.com/sr/javasr/product.do?...pid=00946342000

My friend jankab sold his crankenstien banshee on ebay, a few months ago. since then....it's been for sale about 2 or 3 times from various people...same bike, same pics...I think a couple were over seas.... Just when Ebay would remove a listing, another would pop up.... Send the money...they'd arrange shipping.... Pathetic!

Since you know where he lives, call the local police. It's fraud, and he can get into some shit along with his parents if he's under age. I'd almost bet a phone call or visit from the local po po would get you a tracking number....

Why are you running 110 with 22cc domes? I'd like to see how far Trinity advances their timing.....regardless, on the stock curve, 22cc domes you really don't need race gas. That being said, who put the motor together, you or them? Did you properly seal and tighten the 4 plugs on the bottom of the cub cylinder? I'd check as they said above...make sure the gear isn't stripped on the WP. I run 20 or 19cc domes (185PSI...not 100% sure on dome size), a ton of timing (8 on the plate and curve 3, the highest advance) and straight water. Mine runs just fine.... Have you pressure tested the system and the cap itself? D'oh...just reread that. You have a cheetah, not a cub. I'm not 100% sure if they have those plugs on the bottom...but, it shoud be similar castings (water jacket size-wise)...

On a water cooled two stroke (not sure about 4 poke) blip the throttle every few seconds just a little, that will help it warm up quicker? Why? It circulates the water faster throughout the engine. The coolant in the radiator is cold...only that next to the engine is warm...and, since there is no T-stat...it's constantly circulating, it doesn't stay in the engine long enough to heat up...like it would on your car. Now...blipping the throttle moves it along quicker so it doesn't have as much time to go through the radiator and cool back down. You've all seen a motocross or supercross race with the guys blipping the throttle on the line, right? They're trying to warm their bikes up more completely and faster.... I let mine warm up for 2 or 3 minutes (summer temps) and blip the throttle 1/4 to 1/2 every few seconds....and I take off it's ready to go. I also touch the head to make sure it's nice and warm. Pipes are the first thing to heat up...you'll get a false impression from them.

Then you might be better off with an RZ gear set, since it was at least desinged for a street bike, and I believe it's geared higher... However, I can't tell you if it's a direct drop in, plenty of knowledgeable RZ converts here that could probably answer that....

His MOM is on myspace? Nice.... Let us know if you get a tracking number...Ty. It'd be just as easy for him to create that account to further deceive you... A death in the family? Notice she said it really has effected her, not him. If he always stands by his word...and the packages are already boxed up and ready to ship...why hasn't it been done? Hell...you can call DHL for the pickup, he doesn't even need to ride his pedal bike into town to get 'em shipped....

bidding has ended...go figure. Some other guy wanted like 1800 for a like new banshee. Said do not bid, email me for details...yadd a yadda. He was out of Chicago....told him instead of paypaling the money, etc., I'll just come and look at it. Yeah...the conversation went wayward real quick. Told me he gets them from bankruptcy from banks...and can sell them that cheap...he wanted me to send money before I came down as a deposit, etc. The owner of the ebay account emailed me back right away...saying his account got hacked, and it's not a valid auction.

I personally think you'll need very, very tall gearing to get that kinda MPH...and of course, you'll need a helluva motor to pull it...so, I think NOS might come into play... Did you mate a 670 Rotax to banshee cases...or, are you using a snowmobile CV?

I don't know what is scarier...the fact you know about them...or the fact you still know they're playing shows.... :ohmy: Only reason I remember them is because oh...about 20 years ago, MTV actually played music videos and they had a few songs in the top 20 video count downs... Back in the hair band 80's....

Tires and suspension...you got that covered. I'd at the very least get a good midrange pipe, open up the airbox (no lid) and K&N Filter...and either do the cam mod on your stock cams (they retard or advance the exhaust cam 1 tooth, I think...not 100% sure) or get a good set of aftermarket cams. You'll have a good motor then... spending time dialing in your tires and suspension will net you the biggest gain of all. Most motorcross tracks have a section or two where a dragster motor would come in handy...other than that, it's jumps and turns....

Bonneville Salt Flats...where just about any land speed record is recorded. Miles, and miles...and miles of flat open land. They're in Utah.

WTF...John. You got something agains Donnie and Marie Osmond and Sony and Cher...lol Oh...what about Stryper...the heavy metal Christian band. Metal was all about drugs, chicks...partying, etc.. Not exactly your core Christian Values... Hell Driver...I'm only saying this once...try not to turn this into a religion thread. I know that after my comment above about Stryper...it's going to be tough for you...but, try... Baby Steps...

Fred... The majority (I'd say 90%) of riders use their shees for trail or dunes, etc. Obviously, you live in a location that allows for street driving... In the future, this would be helpful info to know up front, since I'd say 95% of the people that read this post would assume you meant 18inch outside diameter on the rear tires...like a motocross tire... Just trying to help a bit...

Get Trinity or T5s. With your bone stock motor....Shearers would be a waste. Cranking compression does not measure the rest of the case sealing...you'd still need to do a leakdown to test crank seals, intake, etc. A compression tester has a check valve...which...doesn't let air "escape" once it's been pushed to the gauge. A leakdown tester can't be used with a check valve....for an air leak can sometimes be slow enough to take a little time (minute or two) to leak out....

66.5mm is the largest you can go on an OEM cylinder, which is .100 over...which, is a ticking time bomb waiting to happen...real, REAL thin walls. Save the bores for a rainy day freshen up. You could go with a big bore sleeve...but, with all the aftermarket cylinders out now a days...time and labor to pay for a big bore sleeve kit is just about a waste.

You're gonna get a million answers on what the cubs are and are not good for. I trail rode today, in a little mud and water...and I 100% hated it. No traction with knobbies...either on the pipe or locking up the brakes, more often than not the latter.... Here's the dilemma... If you want a cub to run to it's potential....you build it as a drag and dune bike. Forget the trails. We're talking 35mm or larger carbs....top end pipes, i.e. Shearer, CPI, Rocket, GRR, etc. Or...you could choke it down a little by keeping your pipe and carb setup.... It'll be ok, but...In my opinion....it's still gonna have a lot of power that is unusable on trails... I went from stock carbs and T5 pipes to RDZ/Shearer inframes and 35PWK...and...I'm not done. Pretty soon, alky, over ride tranny, lockup clutch, etc. Since you do a little bit of everything, here's what I'd suggest. Get a trued and welded 4 mil long rod crank, get a good dune port to match the new crank (port timings change) run the 795 series pistons, cut and mill the head. Then, pickup some 33 or 35mm carbs. I think that would be a better all around package than a cub setup....for all around riding like you said. It would be more power everywhere, better torque, but...it wouldn't be out of control for the trails...and still pretty reliable.

I was thinking the same....possibly dirty or clogged needle and seat, flooding that cylinder to where it can't fire....

When you bought new pistons....what did you do to your cylinders? Did you get them measured, bored, honed, etc? Or did you just throw them in there? Also...do you have stock pipes? I hope not, a NOSS head is great, but a waste of money if you still have your stock pipes....

He's working on getting a website up now....but....it's not yet. Give him a holler....

Yes, you can test compression without that stuff on. However....it's gotta be on to use the syncrometer on your carbs...

Aha... Nope, someone else bought the head....sorry. Ok...the coil worked last time I tried...but, it was a while ago...and...it is used. Just wanted to be sure...for you. I can't see it being a reed not causing it to fire. If you pull the plugs out, and ground them against the head, can you see a blue spark fire across the ground/electrode?

Let's just make sure that game never gets put in our "arcade"...or Brad would probably have yet another "champion" under his name....

1. Pipes are made on a jig. Your (our) bike was mass produced...not way to be 100% certain it will fit 100% perfectly on all bikes. Although the bikes on paper have the same frame...they can be off a few % here or there... Think about it...you're stuffing a HUGE beer keg of a pipe under a tank and next to a frame rail that was never desinged from the factory to be that way. There's an easy fix...get a solid mount pipe hanger and shim it a bit. 2. I doubt from every day riding it's going to dent that pipe. Now...fall of it, hit a tree...well, you get the picture... Those Rockets are made of some pretty thick metal...it should be fine.

Penny...I sold you a coil...I just looked back at my for sale... Are you using the coil I sold you, or is this a different bike?