dajogejr

Simply put...it allows for upshifting without the clutch, like your auto tranny in your car... However, a normal override...you're not supposed to let off the gas unless you pull in the clutch first....a few times by accident and you're ok. But, eventually, you will bend the shift forks.... A dunable allows for normal driving, upshifting, downshifting, clutchless upshifts... The downside to the override is a slight price increase...and, they haven't been out as long...so, who's to say they'll last as long.

Planning on getting a dunable myself... I don't think anyone can say how long they'll hold up compared to a regular override...but, they seem to be holding their own right now... Whitaker racing in FL does them (Ebay search for WCR), Dave Moore Racing, Cameron at Redline and Jim @ Passion do 'em. Of all the ones I've read about, Whitaker (WCR) seems to have the most options for his, and that's the one badass has in his bike. I'm undecided whether to get a 1-5 nuetral down or 2-5.... Check this out: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Yamaha-Bans...sspagenameZWDVW

I've actually found a thin coat of hi temp RTV works better....especially sealing the coolant... The neck on the back of the head leaked on mine out of the box, so....I'd remove that and seal that Oring too....

You'll need some point of reference... take a yard stick, line it up 90 degrees with your steering stem out the front bumper...use that as your centerline. Then...adjust the wheels so the front tire centers are equal from the Centerline, and the center of the rear of the tire is the same.... That will get you close enough....

This wig is EXPENSIVE...(But...I'll start the bidding at .01...) Makes sense to me. I've got some Austin Powers fake chest hair for a costume I got a few years ago, I should see if he wants to trade....

Yep...sure will. Same bolt pattern.

NIce post.... You can TEMPORARILY use the throttle cable adjustments on the new carb caps to set the idle, but....you're asking for problems if you do. Turning can cause the R's to rise, and you may never get a steady set idle from both carbs. You really need the brass screws to do that, and keep a tad bit of slack in the cable.... I think I still have a brand new (2 or 3 rides on it) twist throttle in my garage. I know I took pics of it to send off, but I don't remember if the guy actually bought it or not. It's a Motion Pro CR style twist. Yes, you'd still need the cable, tops, drill, tap and brass screws... Check out Vito's Performance....they sell parts individually.... I"m not sure where you're getting 80 just for the carb caps. For 60, you get EVERYTHING here, except a twist throttle...(and, if you do go twist, you'll need a different cable) http://www.magicracing.com/TORS-Eliminatio..._p_310-731.html

That's damn good advice...never thought of that.. Let us know if they can do it....

GT Thunder is who I was going to go with before I bought my Marvin Shaw shocks.... Great pricing, and the guy was quick to email me back and forth with questions and answers....

Well...now that Belle tire "Nitronizes" tires....J/K...lol. I'd look for suspension shops near your area...or call up the local stealership to see who/how they service theirs....

To each is own... Surely you have more dangerous things laying around your house for kids to get into...like, bleach, cleaning solvents...etc? Wrap it up and put it in a hefty bag...sheesh.... I'd say (and I think you'll agree) most people have a Home Depot, Lowes, Aco, etc., closer to them then the average race or aftermarket shop.... I'd rather go the cheap, close...and effective route.... But...different strokes for differn't folks....

Murray's or Autozone....first thing in the morning now....lol... Funny thing is....he's posting it at 9:30 PM...burning the midnight oil as we all have.... I'd still like to know exactly what happened or what was done to where he thinks it's flooded....

Steel braided front brake lines help as well...

Starting fluid... Just a QUICK spray....do NOT spray a lot. You could also pull the plugs and kick it a few times...try and force some out the spark plug hole. What makes you think it's flooded so bad?

Oh...so you're the man who set a fire in dunes....so us Silver Lake folk have to run SPARK ARRESTORS?? THanks....lol :ohmy:

IF it is flooded...remove air filter(s) and hold the throttle wide open. Spray a little ether in there....and it'll start. I'd just buy 2 brand new plugs at 2.00 a pop instead of trying to clean old ones.... Banshee-man....I don't get it. In one thread you'd rather spend more money on FMF brand silencer packing then used tried and true (but cheaper) corning house insulation.... But you'd actually sandpaper plugs instead of just dropping brand new BR8ES in??? :shrug:

Yamabond, thin layer is just fine. If the lockwasher that holds the countershaft sprocket on is worn, I'd replace that....

You're buying the same stuff...yours just comes in pre-cut lengths, in a fancy plastic bag...oh, wait..with two FMF stickers too.... All you're buying is fiberglass based insulation, with fire retardant ratings.... If saving money for buying more of the same product is ghetto...then I'm ghettofabulous.... :shrug:

It's probably worth 1 to 3 ponies at best...

There's no replacement for displacement....or good porting. The gearing is only as good as the engine will pull....as said. If I even thought about running 13/46 on my bike, I'd have to take off in 4th gear.... :biggrin:

I had stock carbs and T5s on my cub, along with a 100% stock ignition. I did it all, new coil, wires, Dyna CDI, Shearers and 35PWKs. WORLDS of difference... cubs gotta lot of power, but T5's can't even begin to think about making the power up top and pull forever like shearers do.... Not knocking T5s...I loved mine. But they're truly apples and oranges.

Depends...do you want to run race gas or not? I'd run 18cc or 19cc domes...and you could probably still get away with pump/race mixed. You can either run less compression and more timing, or vice versa. As told to me by my friend...less compression is easier on the bottom end... I'd check with Dave Noss directly to see what he recommends the squish be set at....and as said, all builders have preferences. Quoting a friend again, smaller bore pistons, such as you have, don't need as tight of a squish, when you start getting into bigger bores, say....72mm or bigger, you need the tighter squish.

That does look pretty bad ass...J. I love the fact it's sitting in the house on the couch...that's even better!! :wink:

Corning insulation for your house, peel off the paper... Cheaper by far.

I think it should be it's forum...and pinned. Big Red's teardown and RN Brad's leakdown threads are truly priceless. :beer: