dajogejr

Head shaved 60 or 80 and cylinder shaved 80? Are you sure your port timing isn't way out of whack or squish or compression??? If you're gonna go full drag, get Shearers...... CPI makes a good pipe. The Shearers make more power up top.... Also...fuel that beast... Get at least 35mm carbs...and if you're stuck on drag porting, get 39s... Call Jeff @ FAST for the clutch setup. His off brand basket (Magnum I think) street bike clutch setup are still working just fine for my cub, I've to over 100 passes at the sand drags, not a single clutch issue.... It really depends on your budget...it could go on and on...and usually does. You could get into a dunable override tranny, lockup clutch...etc...

I think you're 100% correct.... LA Sleeve does make a nice kit...with the right person doing it. However, as you stated...out of the box it's not as good as a cub. Dennis Packard builds some insane shit...no doubt there at all. What truly makes the cub nice is out of the box it runs, and runs hard. It's not the fastest thing in the world, but...they do make pretty good power. There are plenty out there that make a plain ol Jane 350 stock bore/stock stroke bike fast...but, it took them a lot of work! Seems everyone has a cub now a days....but, that should tell you something!

Clean the needle and seat better....sometimes compressed air doesn't get it all... A spec of dirt on either of the seats can cause overflow.... It is odd, however that both are overflowing, usually it's one or the other. You can also take a real fine brillo, steel wool or sandpaper and clean the float slide posts, to make sure they're not sticking... Lastly.... Get a small bucket or tray and fill it with some old gas. Put the floats in there and make sure they don't sink... It's been a long time since I've seen a sunken float...but, it happens. Where at in MI are you?

280 and if you have to turn the air screws in less than 1 turn out to get it off idle cleanly, bump up the pilot one size to a 27.5 (25 is stock). FMF pipes like a fatter pilot...but, you're still running the airbox. If you go pod filter, then 27.5 pilot and 330 to 340 main. And, yes, when it gets to be winter time, you will have to richen up the main. A good rule of thumb is 1 bigger main jet for every 30 degree drop in temp. Always check your plugs to be safe.

BR8ES....all day long. 9 is too cold, you don't need that plug unless you're running alky... .028 gap.

My 4 mil with 68mm, T5s and Stock carbs pulled 84.8 HP....just a clean up port. 80HP is well within reach...but, trust me...you'll want bigger carbs soon! My 35's are setup for gas right now, with power jets...but, I'll probably ditch them in a few months and switch to 39's for alky.... Already have the CEL needles in them, keep an eye out in the forsale.... (I'm undecied if I'm gonna keep 'em in case I feel like running gas, or sell 'em outright) I've got a little more compression than you're running....(don't forget, you'll need big bore domes for the 68mm pistons)... You've got CPI inframes....stock carbs would be holding the motor back. There is NO reason why it shouldn't run, and run pretty good with stock carbs. But, once you get that cub, you're gonna wanna feed the beast a bit more! Cubs only need a clean up port, they already have drag port timings out of the factory. Trust me on this, just get a basic, quick clean up to remove the casting flaws. You will get more usable HP out of bigger carbs for about the same money as a port job on them.... The porting on the cubs out of the box is what makes them so good in the first place. Getting them ported and keeping stock carbs will only further hold you back....

I got a cheapy perch and EZ Pull lever from Magic Racing...and I wish I wouldn't have... The ajuster strips real, real ez. Get a good ASV as pictures, or another GREAT product is by Applied racing. They've been making kick ass triple clamps for bikes for years, craftsmanship and quality is top notch.... http://appliedrace.com/store/catalog/produ...roducts_id=1489

Smaller mains, probably 240s with stock air cleaner, stock airbox with the lid on. Did you install the TORS Removal kit when you put the twist throttle on? Did you use the twist throttle cable? I bet you used channel locks to tighten down the carb caps, right? Don't. Hand snug them...and use the L bracket to lock them down....overtightening them will cause 'em to stick.

Put the stock jets back in....that snorkel doesn't do squat.... You basically did nothing to your engine other than .020 over, which...does not require a rejet. Do yourself a favor, remove that snorkel, it'll breath a little better, and put 220 mains in. By putting a twist throttle on, you had to remove the TORS system. Did you drill and tap your carbs and install the idle screws? I've yet to see a twist throttle kit that doesn't remove the TORS adjusters... **EDIT** Ok, I just saw your other post where you listed ALL of your mods, and the whole story....skip this thread.

It will make more LOW END power, but....it will probably rev about as high as stock pipes, if that. I've rode one banshee with a milled head and motofast pipe. It was "Different"...that's for sure.... Just felt weird having to shift so short instead of revving the piss out of her...felt...unnatural.... :shrug:

I like the T5s....better than the FMFs. But, the FMF are a fine pipe, don't get me wrong. It's a tough call...the dune port you have might favor either pipe, I'd ask who ported it and see what they say. It'd be pretty safe to say T5's don't have the bottom end of FMF..but, they have a bit more on top...and "hit" harder. Shaving the flywheel takes off some of the hit because it'll rev quicker. They're both fine pipes, however....so, I honestly don't think it's worth the investment, you can spend that money elsewhere for a few ponies, like some 28 or 33mm carbs to help it breath a little better.

My bike was borderling too lean with 330 mains, their T5 pipes and their 1 into 2 foam filter.... The needles they sell are better, they eliminate the lean spot in the middle from stock needles. I think Vito's has similar needles....that's what you're paying for in their jet kit. Main jets are a few bucks a piece...big deal. Oh, you're paying for a pretty bag and sticker, too... If you give us your riding temps, elevations and all mods done to your bike, we can get you CLOSE on the jetting. Sredish hit the nail on the head with his points, though...

The MDS (I think that's it...where it cuts cylinders) is on the 06 (I've got it, it WORKS!!!) and possibly the 05's. I think this truck is an 03 or 04.... Although I leased mine...(read, I'm not sinking money into it...) thanks for the heads up link, Dinner....I'll have to scope it out sometime.

There is so much more money in mark up for used vehicles. Tell him to knock it down to 13500 out the door or you're gonna walk. You love the truck...but, Hemi....you gas mileage from your Honda just got cut in 1/3...and, theft rate went up. They love to steal these trucks.... The dealer probably paid 8500 or so for this truck....steal it from them. Insult the hell out of them. You can't bargain as much if you're financing...but...cash in hand. Insult the hell out of 'em. I love my 06 RAM hemi...but, it's a whole different truck than this one!

Denny....can you shift without the clutch with those mods?

Yep...get a timing plate instead of the key. A key SHOULD never shear off, but...there is that posibilty... The biggest seller of a timing plate to me is...it's adjustable, and you don't have to remove the flywheel to adjust it once it's in place. 4 might be good now...but, what if you want to go to 6 or 8 or 10 later? No biggie, open end 10mm wrench, loosen, adjust...and away you go. I agree...can't go wrong with Wiseco ProLites. Shearer/CPI/Rockets/GRR pipes are all top end orientated drag pipes.... If you plan on getting some aggressive porting and stay 1/2 throttle or more most of the time, they'd be a fine choice. If not, Fatties, T5s or Trinitys are fine all around dune pipe choices.... And...I agree with Rocket about the other things...lightened flywheel and a little more compression (milled head) won't hurt, either....

Welcome..... Make sure you warm it up to set the idle and sync 'em though!

It's really self explanatory, the tool is. remove the airfilter(s), stick the syc tool in the bell of the carb, and see how much air it is drawing running at idle. Adjust the idle on each until the desired RPM Is reached, and the flow between the two is identical. Then...hold the throttle 1/4 open or so, hold it steady, and take another reading. Adjust the cable holders on top of the carbs tops to get this flow evenly as well. Lock 'em down, test it again, you're done.

I've got 21-10-8 10 row with a 72 inch rollout for my cub. They work pretty damn good with my 6 over swinger.... You want a taller rollout, skinnier tire for that bike....

Is there a reason you're going with Twister instead of a Wiseco Hot Rod? don't get me wrong, the Twister is a GREAT Unit, but...it's twice the price of a hot rod crank.... That extra 400 or 500 can easily be spent elsewhere....

WTF are you talking about??? :shrug:

I will post you a pic of mine....You would want to strip the paint and/or repaint it. I'm simply not going through the hassel. But...I'll give you a killer deal on it, though.... PM me if you're ineterested....it's boxed and ready to go, and I can ship out today.

Yup...what he said. Odd...though...normally, when the seal leaks and starts burning tranny fluid, it's on the right side, not the left ... Mouse....you'd be wise to stop riding that bike now. The longer you ride it, the more $$ it's gonna cost to fix it!

Yeah....I have a 5.5 that I've been almost trying to give away...(read, almost...no, it's not free). I had it sold to a guy in Canada...but, refunded his money when I found out all the hoops I had to jump through to get it there...just wasn't worth it in the end.... It's been painted, and looks to be the same design as Bill's... Yeah, it's an oil tanker alright.....

What is the roll out on these tires?