dajogejr

Rodney....call Sierra Sands. It's quiet and not party central, but for the price, you're gonna have a hard time beating it. I think it's 95 bucks out the door for Thursday and Friday night, then 79.00 out the door for Saturday night. Myself and Bob are going for sure....I have to deeply motivate the third....lol...

17cc is pushing it IMO... If you haven't welded your stock crank by now, you need to. 17cc or 18cc domes will make quick work of that... I like to run a little less compression, but more timing.... And, I always replace the Orings when I remove the head. For 20 bucks, it's not worth reusing ORings to risk a leak....

Sell your T6's. Buy Used T5s. Too much of a loss. You'd be eating a LOT.... IF they T6's are in good enough shape, 300 or so (maybe more) is what I'd expect to get from them. Look at some Trinity Pipes, I've heard good stuff about their pipes (Trinity to me sucks in general, but...their stainless steel pipes are nice/perform well)... Once you sell your T6's, you may have to come out of pocket 100 bucks...maybe not. But that's better than 375 any way you cut it....

Whoa....that stuff is pungent. Sort of burns the nostrils. Smells like gasoline... Smells like Bigfoot's dick.... Classic, for sure....

Ron... Do a search...all this has been covered EXTENSIVELY...time and time again. Gear oil, fuel type, Premix type, air filter oil, air filter type, chain oil, gas/oil ratio, etc. etc. etc. has been coverd dozens and dozens of times, and it's all about personal preference.

Small bore, especially with stock bore and stroke. Unless you step up to a big bore, 7mm or 10mm stroke motor, you don't need big bore pipes, and you'd actually be hurting performance. Small bore Shearers get my nod, but CPIs are a good choice as well.

Let me clarify.... If you still have the stock fibers in there, prolly not a good idea to run them with that gap. If you replaced the clutch with an aftermarket....you're good to go...

He he...that means you've only worked on aftermarkets...lol Not sure if any long term effects, but prolly not the greatest idea. Stock fibers have a larger ID where they slide onto the hub. This rubber O Ring fills that gap, and creates a cushion. There shouldn't be a gap there....so, you're taking your luck into your own hands for sure....

You lost me there. I'm going to kinda make up a word since I can't recall the exact term for it...but, here goes. I don't think the "sonic reverberation" from two strokes can be considered the same as a superchargers.... A sc's main funtion is forcing more gas and air into the intake/carb/FI by means of a belt or other mechanical driven turbine. Where the exhaust at lower RPMs has sonic waves bouncing back and forth...up until a certain RPM.... The term naturally aspirated to me means any means other than "Forced induction", a la turbo or supercharger....or even Nitrous. This is a very interesting thread indeed, one we ALL can learn from! I could be 100% backwards on my statements above....so, someone clear the air if I'm way off.... I'm not taking anything away from the HQ...but, I'd bet if you posted this over at the 2 stroke section on planetsand.com, you'd get a WEALTH more of knowledge and first hand experience from those boys, from mild to wild.... Big motors, turbos, alky and NOS are common place for a lot of the hard core guys over there. If it can be done, I'm sure they've done it....

Agree 100%....good advice. That thing has gotta be a dog out of the hole with a stock motor and a 16t front sprocket...though... I'm assuming you're looking for top speed on a 1/4 mile or long ass dirt road with that type of gearing....

Wrong...bud. Stock clutches (OEM) have an oring on the inner edge of each of the fibers. This was Yamaha's great idea to cut down on clutch chatter. However...I've yet to see an aftermarket clutch that uses these stock O Rings. So, once you replace the clutch with an aftermarket, they get pitched.... :thumbsup:

I'd use a thin coat of hi temp RTV on both sides of those gaskets as well. THIN Coat.... There is a user here that posted a link to a free, pdf download of the maual.

If not...call Jeff @ FAST Racing too. I know he ships to Canada...so, I'm sure he'll ship one overseas too. www.farmandsandtoys.com

Holy Shit? They won that game? I flipped it on when there were getting 23-3 and flipped it off, thinking this was the upset of the year? WOW...good for the bears.

You ain't kidding... 4 mil used to be king of the roost for a while, now owning a 4 mil is about the same as having a ported bike, in comparison to the motors being built now a days... 10 mil is like the new 4 mil...lol, everybody's gotta be like mike... However, there are still quite a few guys that are content on building drag 350's and seeing just how fast they can go, and how far they can be pushed....as well. That's kinda like saying...yeah, I don't have as deep pockets as someone that can go and build a HUGE motor...but, how good can you tune/run a 'lil 350? I kinda like it....

Very Good info...Whitey... I was going off experience his jetting was a bit rich, you sure put it into words with a tech explanation nicely. Whitey...you get that turbo bike up and going yet? Love to see a vid.

Try another compression tester, or...tear it down and check clearances. At the very least you'd be out the cost of antifreeze, gaskets and labor to check clearances. What elevation are you at, by the way. Replacing rings on only one side is about the same as only replacing one worn out tire in a pair, or using one new shoe lace if one breaks...it just doesn't make sense....

Smart man. He's starting you off Rich to be safe.... 55 pilot is what they normally put in Alky bikes, so...it'll be rich. I just went from a 50 pilot to 45 in my cub....Silver Lake Dunes next weekend, so...I'll see how that runs.

Do the springs look streched or clipped?

Because the springs are so large in circumference, there's really no where for them to go. The rubber oring on the outside edge holds the springs in place. G Unit...try this. remove both slides. Take a real, real fine grit sandpaper, say 400 to 600 grit, and lightly sand the outside the whole outdside of the slides. Make sure there're no sharp or rough edges. Then....tighten the tops on by hand, stock or aftermarket. Use the L bracket and screw to hold them in place. I had a problem with my stockers where I tightened the shit out of them with channel locks, and yep...they stuck. Soon as I released some pressure, they snapped back down on the slides.

I went from a BONE STOCK motor (as in OEM pistons/top from 96) with T5 pipes, stock carbs/pods, lightened flywheel and a +4 advance on timing...which was a respectable peppy bike. To my current 4 mil cub motor on drag pipes, 35PWKs and the like... This bike pull like a mofo...and just keeps on pulling...and I love it. I can't wait to put it on alky, an override and lockup.... Now I can't imagine a 16mil. That thing will prolly damn near rip the bars out of your hands... Sheesh... My hat's off to you for building a bike that quite a few of us will never be able to, let alone may never even see one... :thumbsup:

I damn near gave it away to differentstrokes. I sold it for half of what I paid for it just 4 or 5 months ago....and I never even used it once.... Just shipped today, as a matter of fact! I put it up for sale here and planetsand, a lot of inquiries...and a lot of people wanted to steal it from me and have me strip the paint on it.... I was like, look...I'm already taking a big loss, and you want me to do all this labor stripping paint too? Uh....no. I had a deal fall through with a guy from Canada, too....on my part. I refunded him immediately once I realized all the hoops I had to jump through to ship out of country...I'll never, ever ship anything out of country again....

Agree 100%.... However, I'd ditch the stock carbs for some 28's or 30's...in anticipation of a port job, and the stock carb design SUCK!!.....

If he's using anything with the TORS on a set of aftemarket Keihins....that's be news to me...lol. I'm thinking it's your needles, as well. You're not overtightening your carb caps, are you? You don't need to wrench them on. Snug by hand is all you need. Did you happen to cut any loops off the springs or modify them in anyway? Is the plastic retaining collar sitting in the notched groove properly in the top of the slides? It's gotta be either the cable/springs/collars aren't right, or the needles are slightly bent. Only thing I can think of.... Are you using the tops of the carbs to adjust idle or remove slack? is there a hair of slack at the throttle? The carb top adjusters are only used to sync the carbs, and take a little of the slack out. Most of the slack adjustment should come from the throttle housing itself....

150 mains, 48 pilots and CEL or DEK needle in the middle clip should get you close. I'd ask Jim from Passion what he recommends...since I've read his 12 port can be a little finicky....but runs good once jetted.