dajogejr

This is a classic thread of opinion...ta-may-to vs. ta-mah-to.... I don't know squat about turbos, superchargers or NOS in relation to a two stroke...but this is a good informative thread.... Keep in mind boys.... In a two stroke, the mixture travels into the crank case and up through the transfers. While a four stroke, the mixutre never enters the crank case (unless your rings are really...REALLY bad)... So, that's where the extra volume comes into play would be my guess, nothing about the cylinder holding more volume....the crankcase is part of the overall volume. That's my take, anyways....and, I'm more than open to suggestion on that.

One bowl will have the tube, the other will not. You'll notice, one has the choke on it, and a tube goes from one carb to the other. This is for the choke, or fuel enrichening circuit. I think (been a while) the float bowl with the tube matches up with the carb that has the choke knob (left side carb).... Also, make sure your carb slides are in correctly (a small cutout should be facing the airbox side of the carbs)... Until you get used to the carbs....it's always best to remove and dissasemble one at a time!!!

Two things... 1. I don't want somebody to fubar their engine on my behalf due to a joke, and 2. I don't want someone saying "Oh, well dajogejr said to do this" and well, you know... I have an easy enough time looking like an idiot...I don't need any more help in that department!! :beer:

What do you mean if I could??? What do you think holds my 5 piece stock plastic gas tank together??? Someone told me that if you add it to the gas, it'll help seal your crank bearings. Or was that Trans fluid...I forget. ***Disclaimer. Do NOT Add anything but gas or premix oil to your gas tank...this was a JOKE!!! *** lol... :yelrotflmao:

Apparently so....lol

I might be getting rid of mine after this last trip to Silver Lake next weekend...."closing weekend"... I'm in MI, have 10 row, 21 inch with a 72 inch rollout. I'm going to need more paddle and swingarm for next year...so, if you're still in the market in a couple weeks, shoot me a PM. You can see a pic of them in my sig, great shape on black label rims. We can talk about with or without rims....

I WON mine from this site, it's a Mod-Quad version. The cover fits back on tight, but...it works, sort of. When I use the allen plug to drain the coolant, I have to put orange hi temp RTV on the allen plug to get it to seal...or it will drip, no matter HOW tight it tighten it. But, it was free from HQ...so, I'm not complaining.... http://modquad.com/store/search_results.as...mp;txtCatName=2

If they're cheaper it's probably for a reason.... When it comes to pistons, pro-lites are really, really hard to beat for price and durability....

Too much porn..lol... Guess we're gonna have to mod AND admin michigansandslingers.com, huh JT? :yelrotflmao:

Tell me about it...(96 here) just got the dyna to be done with it... Mollet... Your next step if you don't want to/can't find a used one is to go to Ricky Stator. He sells new CDIs for 125. A dyna will set you back almost 300, and a stock OEM from a dealer more than that....

What are you looking to do/build?

I gotta sit here and think about that.... UM.... Close, yes... But I'm about 99% positive with an airbox and lid even with a K&N, 27.5 is TOO much.... You'll get more "usable adjustment" by the air screw if you jet down on the pilot...

My comment was primarily directed at you.... Do you think any of you lend any credibility to anything in this thread?? UP to your level? I guess when you're down that low...ANYTHING would be considered up... :shoothead:

I would pay 20 bucks extra per day for a warm bed and warm shower. (however, sand showers and sand sandwiches will be provided to Bob and his 4 stroke all weekend, free of charge...ha ha ha...) I told him to stock up on the mouthwash and toothpaste, he's gonna need it.... I'm hoping the weather is similar to last year, JT. Little cold at night (good for the beer) and sunny, 60's during the day.... That would be perfect. We're leaving our area around 9 am or so, Thursday AM. You guys wanna meet up, or are you leaving later?

I simply can't believe all of you degenerates have managed to keep this religious bashing, God talk thread still going. Are all of you simply that bored and pathetic? I know this IS the roosting room, for off topic discussion...but, hasn't this gone on long enough? Same thing, back and forth, back and forth.... If you can't solve it in 5 months and 69 plus pages, is it going to be solved at all? Go out and ride your quad or something...sheep, I don't care.... Get a clue....

for 2.00 a plug, cleaning them up is a total waste. Buy two new ones.... And...I think you should LEAN out your pilot and go back down to a 25. Putting around getting them loaded up, and .5 out on your air screw tells me there's way too much fuel at idle to low throttle...

Hopefully....you have a Clymers. You can OHM the stator and Coil. Might be time for new plugs caps, known to go bad on stock wires. Remove the left side cover, and check for moisture, as well as check your flywheel air gap between the Magnets and the pickup coil. Normally, when a CDI goes bad, it doesn't spark at all. But, stranger things have happend. I'd also double check your kill switches, key and your grounds, too....

Yeah, if he doesn't give you straight answer, find another. Does it have an aftermarket head on it, or stock?

I've replaced a ton of the old phillips screws (plastic, motor, etc.) with hex head metric bolts, and each time Home Depot or Ace hardware has 'em. Just bring an old one to match up the length....

Now we're talkin... :thumbsup: I'm the wrong person to ask about cutting plastic, mine look like hell...so, new plastic next year. I used a cut off tool, hacksaw then some scotch brite/sandpaper on mine. It looks like I was loaded when I did it. If I drove or walked that crooked, I'd be in jail...lol. I think VForce reeds are too expensive of a mod on stock porting, to be 100% honest. Once you pay for porting, then they're nice icing on the cake. Two very cheap and noticeable mods are a timing plate and a shaved flywheel. You can get your flywheel shaved and a timing plate both for around $100 bucks, give or take. Easy to do both, and...since the flywheel has to come off to get cut, you're already exposing the Stator and Stator plate. Just three screws from there. One you do that, you're pretty much at the limit of bolt on mods, short of getting a NOSS head with smaller domes or cutting your stock head. Do you have a problem running race gas, or do you want to still run pump gas? Pump gas, get 21cc domes and advance the timing +4. Race gas, get 19cc domes and +4 on the timing. Now you're to your next dilemma.... Stock cranks have been known to separate, once you start putting more pressure on them (compression and timing) it's a good idea to have the stock crank welded. That's a complete tear down and reassembly of a motor, though. Your next mods, other than the cheap ones I listed is probably a good port job, and prices vary.... This man can hook you up with every thing you need, from mild to wild, and his prices and services are hard to beat. http://www.farmandsandtoys.com Jeff is a good guy.

27.5 pilots should be just fine with your mods. However, dropping down a size will hurt, not help. You need more gas for cold starts, not less. Are you using your choke to start it? If you're at .5, and it is still tough to start, bump up to a 30 pilot and go 1.5 to 2.0 turns out.... However, I think the problem may be elsewhere. When I had similar mods, I could run a 25 with .5 turns out or a 27.5 at 1.5 turns out or so. I think it's time to check compression, just to be safe... Also, I'd completely dissasemble the carbs and choke circuit to clean 'em. The bike should'nt start on "one" cylinder, and then the other picks up....that tells me it's not a jetting specific problem. Could be spark, could be a dirty carb, worn reeds, worn top end. I don't think changing the brass is your cure here.... There is no "Standard" for jetting...only rules of thumb based on experience. Normally, a 20 to 30 degree drop in temp requires one size larger main. Again...rough guesstimate. Based on your mods (mainly a full airbox w/ lid and no snorkel) and your elevation, (just above 1000 feet) I think you're jetting is rich all around. The main might be ok for real cold temps....but I truly feel your pilot is rich as is.

Matter of preference. I have the small bore RDZ/Shearer (same pipe) for my 4 mil, 68mm cub motor. They rip...flat out. 7mm stroke is kinda fence sitting, small bore vs. big bore, and 10mm you really should have bb pipes. However, some will tell you to keep the small bore for more mid, but the big bore will pull more on top (breathe better)....

Actually.... You normally only have to lean out the needle one clip from VForce installations. And that's only some of the time. Let's get back to basics. What are your current mods, altitude and riding temps. Next, what kind of carbs and what jets are in them now? Pilot, needle/clip and main jet? You said now...as in it ran fine before.... Reed Valves don't effect the low speed/pilot circuit...much, anywho. Did it recently get colder where you're at, as in like a good 30 degree drop in temps or so? Have you tried adjusting the air screws... And of course, two last things. Carbs may be dirty, or...it might be time to freshen up the top end....

16??? Man...I don't even remember being that old...lol. Live it up buddy....have a good one!

If you can put that in English so I can read it....we can help... Porting is where your power is, prices vary. Might as well wait until the top end needs to be replaced to get it ported. This is a plug chop: http://www.dfn.com/benkaren/plugchop.html And, it's used to check the main jetting.