dajogejr

Because it will widen the front end 3 to 4 inches...

Why did I know that was coming as soon as I got the email notification....lol... :yelrotflmao:

If it's not stripped or broken, just reuse it. The head nut just got wedged on and loosened the stud instead of itself... It happens. I'm no expert in metals, but...my guess would be the way it's heat treated, softness of the metal, etc. Not 100% sure, I know I won't ever use hardware store bolts in anything motor/suspension critical ever again. They're fine for holding on your plastic, etc, but....OEM for motor for me!

Stock pilots. start with a 310 main...work your way down if needed. If you runa lid on the air box, start with 290. Stock pilots. If it won't run right off idle and the air screw is less than .5 turns out....go 27.5 pilots. start with a 340main...work your way down if needed. Might end up with 330 to 360 depending on temps. PTs don't flow as much as a T5...like I ran, but...that should get you close.

Thanks for the stickies, Chase. Got home for lunch today...and there they were. Got some home demolition work going on, so it might be a few days before I can stick 'em up and take pics...but, shee's already cleaned and shined up waiting for them!!! I appreciate your help and quick turn around time!!

Great transaction with Jared, beginning to end. FINALLY sold that 5.5 gallon oil tanker/gas tank to a deserving member.... Best of luck with it buddy!!

Just riding it... Took it to a dyno, one was already popped. Trail rode, (big mistake on a cub motor) popped another. Got it all back together, taking it for a ride around the yard to make sure it was "trail worthy" broke another one. Three in a very short period of time. I'd like to eventually get a set from ARP...but, stockers are holding up just fine! I didn't even go to a local hardware shop, I went to a metric supply specialty, and got the hardest bolts they had.... OEM baby...the only way to fly!!

Hey...DS... He last posted that problem in November of 05...I hope he has it sorted by now... :beer:

Hmm... here we go. You can get replacement studs at any yamie dealer, or a member here. DO NOT go to a hardware store and get studs. I know this for a fact. I went to a local metric store, got hardened studs that were cool looking and had an allen head in them...and I broke 3 of them. Yes, three of them on my motor. Get the OEM parts. The two studs in front, over the exhaust, will be longer. When you put the new stud in, get a few threads coated in high temp RTV, and thread it in, hand tight only. You do NOT need to crank that stud down or loctite it, the head nut will tighten down fine. They don't all have to neccessarily be the same height, as long as they hold 20 to 22 ft. lbs. of torque, you're fine. You MUST get that coolant out of the lower half. If you can't suck it out or blow it out, drain the tranny oil, remove the motor and flip it over. Or...drain the tranny oil and flip the bike upside down or on it's side. You do NOT want coolant, water or gear oil in the crankcase...trust me on that one. You might be able to stuff a shop rag down there to soak it up...just do what's best/easiest for you and make sure you get it all out!! As long as the head and deck surfaces are clean (I use a real fine scotchbrite pad to clean it all off) and brake cleaner to get it clean, you shouldn't need any kind of gasket sealer on a stock/OEM head gasket. Make sure you clean those cylinders with soap and water till they're sparkling when you put 'em back on, and use a thin coat of two stroke oil on them to ease the rings/pistons back into the jugs. Sorry for the novel, but you asked...lol --daj...

At your elevation, (5400ft, correct?) your main jets are fine. If anything, they are rich... You'll probably have to adjust your air screws to get rid of that low RPM Bog, and MIGHT even have to lean out the needle one clip or two ( towards the blunt end) due to your elevation and VForce Reed cages. Adjust the air screws this way. Warm the bike up. Start with them .5 turns out from the lightly seated position. Ride it. Then, turn them .5 turns out more, wait 20 seconds for the adjustment to take effect, ride it again. Keep doing this until you get the highest idle from your air screws and the best response, waiting 20 seconds between adjustments for it to take effect. If you end up with less than more than 2.0 or 2.5 turns out, you'll need to bump up your pilot size. However, at your elevation, stock pilot jetting shoudl flow more than enough fuel. Then...if it's crisp in 1/8 to 3/4 throttle, leave the needle alone. If it's a little boggy, go up one clip on each needle until it's crisp. I think your mains are fine, maybe a hair rich.... Good luck!!

I'd rather get a 3.00 valve stem, drill the rim on the "new" outside, and be able to check the air pressure in my tires without having to take the rim off.... Tell you what, better get a steering stabilizer though...it'll rip your bars out of your hands a lot easier...

There's no place for a copper washer. The plug stops threading in ...and there's no head on the plug, it's just a threaded rod with an allen head inside the actual plug....

Yeah...but, he just replaced the CDI... I guess for 125.00, get another one...or find one used. However, if it shorts again....I'd be looking over every wire on the bike.

Good to hear actual experience from an atual user AND mechanic... Thanks for the heads up!! I think we have a winner!!

Machine the top deck (was uneven in the middle) and machine the bottom of the cylinder, using a thicker base gasket to keep the squish angle and port timing correct. That fixed it the first time. Second time was totally my fault...trail rode, lost a clamp on K&N and sucked water in the engine, popping a crank seal.... both times, I was able to run the engine, start it fine...idle fine...etc. But, gave her the spray down...and it died out.

I think what you read is you leak test the motor at 6PSI.... If that was the case....then a piston moving up and down creating vacuum to get the charge, 2 stroke or 4, would be considered a pressurised charge... Or...fuel injection would be non-naturally aspirated. Sooner or later, we gotta draw the line....

If money was tight, I'd get the stocker shaved and rechambered... But, the Oring head will seal better and cool better, period. Dave can confirm this very easily, PM dlnoss or call him @ 918-358-3804 Or, follow here....it plainly states coolant deflectors are machined into the head: http://www.nossmachine.com/banshee_heads.htm He gives a discount for HQ members...or, as said, go with Jeff.

When my new cub motor had a BAD air leak on the bottom left side of the cylinder, it would start fine, idle fine, and free rev in nuetral fine. The second I dumped it in gear...done. flat on it's face. I had stock carbs and T5 pipes at the time. Went from a 380 main jet down to a 200. Every jet inbetween, two different needles, different clip settings, you name it. Didn't make a bit of difference. I basically wasted a WHOLE weekend trip at the dunes cause I was too damn lazy to do a leak down test. If the left side (flywheel side) crank seal is bad, yes...you can start the bike and spray behind the flywheel to see if the RPMs dip down too...

I've got carbon fiber reeds (VForce 3) and my plugs aren't even close to being gray. 40 kicks or a push start on a banshee is not even close to being right. Some of the VForce 2 reeds had a problem with the hold down screw backing out and getting sucked into the motor....hate to say it, but....they did. You're supposed to use a little loctite on the screws that hold the reed petals in. I'd do a leak down and compression test to save yourself future headaches. If it ONLY starting running bad once the reeds were put in, either you installed them wrong, or....you didn't seal them properly.... My guess...

Yep.... 1 gallon is like what, 10 pounds. When you're drag racing...you want it as light as possible. You get a few trips and that's about it, cause normally once you go that far, you're guzzling alcohol...which, you use twice as much as gas. And I've seen them smaller than 1.5 gallon as well...

I"m pretty sure the NOSS head has deflectors for the coolant flow as well...check with Dave Noss, just PM dlnoss, or wait for him to pipe in here....

You're lean with that small a main in a 1 into 2 setup. Go back to the 188 main. And, do a leakdown test. Once you warm it up, and let it idle...does the idle raise slightly on it's own, as if by magic? Easy start, good idling but no top end is typical of an air leak, once spark and jetting are ruled out. Going from a 185 to a 155 is a HUGE jump...and you would notice a difference in top end revs. I'd start it up, warm it up easy, and spray carb cleaner all around the intakes...I'd bet you've got an air leak there...

Do yourself a favor and quit riding that bike. There should be NO gray or silver on the plugs. The motor is trying to tell you something, but...you're starting it up...warming it up...and beating the piss out of it. You need to at the very least do a compression check. If you're getting silver or gray on the plugs, 99 times out of 100 that means the aluminum piston is starting to come apart. That is caused by a number of different condition and/or problems. Normal wear, time for a fresh top end. Too lean of jetting, melting the pistons Too much timing Air leak... The longer you ride that bike, the more money it's gonna cost to fix it.

This here should answer all your questions... Download the Banshee Service Manual... http://cracker19.badongo.com/

If you fried another CDI...you need to check your grounds again!!! Good luck!