dajogejr

If that was the case...I would be the fastest motherfucker in the world 'cause I am one handsome son of a bitch....

While I understand the .05 is not set in stone, if you set ANY kind of limit on how fast someone can run, it is no longer truly heads up...that's my point. Anytime you take the ET 100% out of the racers hands by handicapping or "capping" how fast they can go, it's a form of bracket or index.... If you can breakout at all, it's not heads up and it's considered bracket or index, regardless of if it's by .001 or .5. Because of this, it's not "true heads up". Again Bryan, I'm applauding you with what you're doing...but to say it's not a form of bracket or index racing is just the wrong terminology in my opinion... "No Sandbag Time: This is one of the key points in this race! The “No Sandbag Time” is equal and unknown for all racers. It can change based on ATVDRA’s discretion.. The time will be quicker than your quickest qualifying run. Example: Don’t Panic’s quickest qualifying pass is 5.90 and Candy’s quickest run is 5.70; using an equal and known “No Sandbag Time” for this example: .05. Don’t Panic can run no faster than 5.85 and Candy can run no faster than 5.65. If they both run faster; the one that’s closer to the “No Sandbag Time” will win. Ladder/Pairings: The ladder will be created for the best race possible. What we are trying to avoid is spotting out a slower quad past the 60’ mark. Past that mark there are pro’s and con’s for both racers. It could happen, but we will take every step to try and avoid it."

Turn the air screws all the way in, then .5 turns out. If this helps/solves the problem, small pilots are your issue. If it doesn't make any difference, you have another issue. Regardless if the jets are too small, it should still start fairly easy with the choke on...that should give it plenty of fuel. Choke tube in place, are the right bowls on the correct carb? If the carbs are setup right, clean...and .5 turns out doesn't help the starting, check cranking compression. Last question...once you warm it up and run it...does it start MUCH easier? If so...I'm pointing towards worn out top end.

Possible to throw a few washers under the pressure plate to give it some room? To get clearance for my slingshot type lockout (yeah, I know...different style, same issue) I put washers under the 6 bolts that hold it on...

Pictures will do absolutely nothing for you. What you need to do is measure the timing on the ports. Worst case scenario, if you measured the top, bottom and width of the ports from the deck height someone might chime in and give you a "rough" port timing scenario....but pictures alone will never, ever tell how well a motor should run. It's a math formula, not a beauty contest....

30+ years? Damn you're an old fossil.... LOL... J/K. I like the idea...like any radical idea, it will have it's growing pains and complaints. However, the idea is sound in my opinion... If you guys aren't showing times and having someone match up pairings based on ETs run, and you can't run .05 faster than your best run, it is a form of bracket racing or index racing...in my opinion, but I still support the idea.

Timing won't fix jetting... What size carb is on there? That setup should rip pretty good if the porting is done decent... Once it's jetted right, 4 degrees will give you noticeable punch, but fix the issue/jetting first.

Dave Moore Racing was selling a silencer setup called the legalizer just for the db restrictions of Oregon, might be another option.. http://www.davemooreracing.com/Legalizer.html HOLY SHIT are they expensive....

I'm going to actually commend you on this...and wish you luck. As a pretty experienced racer, sand bagging and letting out are part of bracket/index racing, always will be. I wish you luck sticking to these rules of no looking over/back and letting out of the throttle... Learning to bag and let out in brackets is every bit as critical as tuning the bike and a good start... You can tell by watching the runs and looking at slips who is bagging... Good luck...sounds interesting.

You can get casting inaccuracies just like you can gasket thickness. I usually start out with two or three gaskets that I measure up the same before I torque the cylinder down so I know I can start off with a level playing field... I like to run .020 on my 10 mil, and I had to run a pair of .012 on my 4 mil since I had to have the deck height resurfaced due to a dip in the middle... Best way to check is get 4 gaskets, two .012 and two .020 and check their thickness first, mock it up with one of each and check your deck height. It's what I'd do...

I've had fun at the dunes in the past...just not my cup of tea. Like I've always said...lights and timers don't lie..I prefer the track. No rolls, no jumps...and who gets to the end first still wins... Plus...as you said, you catch a whoop at the track something is wrong...

You guys are making me sick...LOL. Have a good time up there peeps...be safe...keep it rubber side down.

You'll see a lot more people and faster bikes the following weekend, Memorial weekend... The holiday weekends bring out the craziest and fastest stuff. I have heard the drag strip is in rare form (GOOD FORM)...flat, but still a little wet. Hope you guys have good weather and dry areas to ride...have fun.

Find a good quality one used...for under 100 bucks.

I think that was his point...

Ok...help me out. How do you run, how far, how long, etc.? Keep in mind most of us that run alky run in a straight line for a determined length, 200, 300, 660 or 1320 feet in most cases. You mentioned 15 laps...that's a different story...so fill us in please. If you're on/off the throttle all the time that's one thing, if you're WOT all the time for a long period of time, that's another... So we need more info.

It normally take a couple runs to make any heat/marks on the plugs. Judging by the second set, and taking into consideration it was only one run...I'll say it's one of two things. It's lean and/or running out of fuel. 15 laps? Ok...I thought you were a drag racer only running 300 feet... Give it more fuel...period. I run B9ES ( I Have resistors in my wires) at .018 to .020 and 28:1 on supertechniplate. You're running methanol on a dirt track/circle bike? Not worth it in my opinion...do you have fuel pump, billet bowls, dual feed pingle? (Sorry if this was already covered...)

I see the bottom of the plug base looks like carbon/oil caked on it...not burning from heat. I don't like the EIX series plugs for gas or methanol, but that's just me....

Exactly my point...essentially your mains are that big.

Looks a little rich...what size is your dump tube? Be very careful..at .125 mains the threads are paper thin and can snap off...

I'd bet it doesn't make enough difference on the slip or to your butt dyno. It's just a convenience factor for 300 foot...

Depends... If you spend most of your time wide open, lean out the main one to two sizes. If you don't, it could be fine on the main and rich/lean on the needle. The top of the piston is hot. It's hotter towards the exhaust side. The first air/fuel out of the cylinder is on the exhaust side...then the piston goes down further and gets a clean, cool/fresh charge of fuel. If there is a lot of left over fuel/oil that doesn't get burned it'll stick on the intake side since that's where the cooling is happening...the exhaust side is all business. Fresh fuel/oil charge is what cools the top of the piston...but it only needs so much to do so. Too much (rich) causes build up, too little...well, we know what happens to a lean motor.

You've got that backwards... It's burning off on the exhaust side...that's why you don't see a buildup. I'd say you're safely rich. That's some pretty even burning, as well...

Well put... In addition to proper machine work and clearance...proper tune is just as important, only thing I'd add there. The Vitos pistons I'm going to be using are for the cub. Blaster piston dome and the specs are a little different than the Wiseco blaster pistons... The intake bridge is thicker...and anyone that runs a cub knows what the intake does to Wiseco on the intake side (striping) and the skirt is a little longer...as well.