dajogejr

They clymer method for testing the stator is in fact correct...unlike the coil. The main failures I see in Electrical systems are end caps on the coil (the coil them selves rarely go bad) and stators. Keep in mind, the lighting side of the stator and the ignition side are two different items...as well. Always check and/or add new grounds if they're in question. Electrical is the worst...by far.

First off, my friends that race at outlaw love the place, hope to make it down there one day myself. My advice is get tires like pro wedges that hook and work on your gearing. You've got a stock motor...you'll probably be more consistent on that than anything else if you get off the line good and hit your shifts. Banshees are notorious for being poor at shifting, when you start putting the power to them, (pipes, porting, etc.) it's when they really start to show their weakness. My only advice is once you do start to mod it do it as a package and not by piecemail if you can afford to. I know that's easier to say than do....especially with how tight $$ is now a days. But if you do things out of order or not as a package, it's easy to go backwards (Slower) and get frustrated for not seeing results in ETs. Good luck...our hometown track is for sale and not operating. It was a sand track we used to go to and burn off 20 to 30 passes no sweat...we ran out of fuel before we ran out of time. It's a damn shame....

As I said over there....if it was a discussion it's more than welcome and encouraged. When you introducing a product line that's considered a selling point. A selling starting point...against the rules. Borrink just started making pipes again...he doesn't even have that many sets out yet he took out advertisement here.... Jim's a smart guy. I'm interested to see how the pipes turn out as well. I ESPECIALLY want alternatives to what is out there from my own personal experiences and problems that I've had with what I currently use. I think he's on to something as well...which is good for all of us. However, I'm not sure why you're bothering over here since you claimed 90% of the members here can't tighten their own chain....so pipe discussion and theory must be way beyond their comprehension...

I would go on to say just shaving alone will not net the same result as shaving and rechambering the head. Otherwise, I'm with you 100%. I can tell you I always had seepage issues around the edges with my stocker on my 10 mil cub. Just a drip here and there...but it was annoying. One thing I gotta admit, the aftermarket heads do look much nicer... And you have to remember, some mods are for looks alone with nothing else behind it...so, keep that in mind as well.

I would be one of them. I originally had a stock head cut for my 10 mil cub. Oringed, no head gasket...just yamabond on both sides to seal the water. It's still a Pain in the ass. Orings are 20 bucks a set. Unless they're blown, reuse them... A head is 135 to 155 ish, domes are 65 to 90 bucks a set. A stock head is 25 to 35 bucks or so. Any machinist worth their salt is going to charge 40 to 75 for the work. You do that twice and you're already near the price of an aftermarket head. Now... Keep in mind, you gernade a motor and take out the dome, you can buy new domes and be done. With a stock head...you're not going to remachine it...so it's a whole new head, re machine it..etc. Like I said, no issues running a stock cut head on a bike done right, you are just very limited to your options after it's cut once, that's all!

I understand.... Guy @ Inland has always treated me great. Period. More than fair and bent over backwards quite a few times to help out. However...as you know, good help is very hard to find...and he knows that as well. Even your choice builder has made some mistakes Sonny...I know of it first hand as well.

You will need to have your cylinders ported to match the extra stroke in order to take advantage of it. Either of those links are fine, Inland and RJATV are fine vendors... However... Give the HQ sponsors listed above a chance as well. I don't think Inland does in house porting, and I know RJ doesn't... You'll need to complete the package in order to get the performance out of it.

I'll take my Chariot head any day of the week. Less Orings, less to leak...and quality construction. Dave Noss does in fact make a great cool head as well...and he's a helluva nice guy. I just prefer my Chariot head. In all the years of this sport, I've yet to see concrete evidence of a "cool head" of any type lowering the operating temperatures of a motor. The benefits they offer are this: Orings to seal better than a flat head gasket and the ability to tune/change your motor with replaceable domes. Once you machine/mill a stock head...that's it. You don't add material to it. The cool heads you just swap domes to suit your build...be it a trail bike or full out alky dragster.

Unless you're drag racing at a track and are required to have a catch can for coolant, get rid of the overflow bottle and put the hose down to the ground.

I can tell you this... Jeff's clutch is great. But I can also tell you from switching to a slingshot lockup vs. my old dd style, I burn out a clutch a year, even Jeff's.

7's to 8s... Without knowing a WHOLE bunch more, tire type and size, gearing, list of all mods, weight, etc.... That's like going to a car dealer and asking them what kind of cars/trucks do you have for sale...

You need a machinist drill index set and a set of digital calipers to figure out the sizes. You'll probably need drill bits from .110 to .125. You'll have to figure out how big the dump tubes are...and how big the mains are from there. Since FTZ set them up...what did they say they should be at, etc? Sorry...I'm not a Mikuni guy for alky. I could get you close for Keihin and/or Lectron, but the principles are the same for all alky carbs to be honest.

I think you meant to post a different page...that one doesn't help with plugs at all. That would confuse the hell out of me if I didn't run Lectrons...

Each cylinder should be tuned separately, but...starting out the same is a good starting point. Get some white out or a sharpie marker and draw a line on top of the power jet adjustment. That way you KNOW how many turns you have. Each carb is different...my carbs will pull from the PJ as soon as I wick the throttle. On alky bikes, you can run MUCH more fuel than gas...and it will blow raw fuel out the pipe. It won't foul plugs like gas does...but it will run boggy and feel sluggish. It is normal to not have color on an alky plug after a single run...it takes a few runs to build heat. If the plugs are still wet after a few passes, slowly lean it down. When the bike pulls clean and feels strong, that's your safe point. You can lean it down from there at your own risk. I know they were setup by FTZ...but that doesn't tell us what size jets are in there. You need to know that...period. Not trying to be a dick or sound like an ass...but, if you took everyone's word on something being "close enough" you'd end up short on a lot of things.

You need to find out what size main, dump, pilot and needle you are using. "Should be close enough" will not help you tune your bike. The power jet has little to no effect on the idle or just off idle. What is your compression ratio at? What is your cranking compression? Back it down to 7 degrees, gap the plug at .018 as said. See how that work. 10 is a lot for an OEM cylinder for an alky newbie.... Is the motor ported, and if so...by whom? Alky will increase your performance from 5 to 10% on average, but there's a lot more to it than just opening up the carb. Fuel vent, did you gut and drill the gas cap? Do you have a pingel valve, bigger bowls, etc? Lots of questions, that should keep you busy for a while....lol.

As long as it's a bead and not a little shit weld, you should be fine. I wish I had a pic of the shit welds I've seen. My bro welds the pin all around, inside and out. It is definitely not going anywhere when he gets done. I can tell you I have a new 10 mm Vitos crank for this year, I retired my old one. They do a nice weld on them out of the box and they are pretty damn true ready to run as well. VERY nice pieces of equipment.

That's it...I'm calling him to mess with him. I'm going to ask him the going price on FBTs...we gotta break this rookie in the right way. If he doesn't know the price of a left side muffler bearing he just aint' gonna cut it... Good for you...too many shops try to do it all and everyone suffers and stresses out... Good luck Nick...!!

Not sure who welds your crank, but the bird shit "tack" welds don't usually hold up. Ask anyone that's run an older hot rods crank that was "welded" from the factory. To be honest, for the cost it'll take to replace a rod on a stock crank, get a used one with good rods and bearings and retrue and weld it.

sudco.com or magicracing.com They'll have what you'll need and ship to the great white north.

Are you guys going to stagger the tree? I understand you're going to pair them up in ladder, but sooner or later the slower bikes are racing the faster bikes... Or do you have pretty solid cc or other class structure for that?

Anyone worth their salt in racing will tell you it's won at the light and at 60 foot... 1st gear is ultra low on a banshee...always start out in 2nd gear and slip the clutch out, don't dump it. You'll win more and do better in races once you learn the start!

The smaller motor has Nitrous, I'm sure it needs extra fuel for the fuel enrichment, a la the pump. The bigger motor is a gas motor...but I have to be honest, if it were mine I would want either billet bowls or a dual feed fuel valve myself for a pavement bike! If Ray is not in a big hurry to sell them, after memorial weekend I'd love to take 'em to the drag strip to see what they run and check 'em out.

I agree on all points... I'll be interested to hear how the (brake check) works for you as well and how to prevent it. I'm not talking about the driver/rider...I'm talking about the person going over the slips and pairing them up together...

Ha...beat me to it. Ray...they look pretty darned clean. Do you know where they ran at and what times they ran? In the drag race world, you're gonna need to know some details...like what size motor (bore and stroke), what size this, what size that...etc. You're not selling trail banshees here and the drag race crowd is fickle for details and results. Need some more motor detail, times it ran and where...

It would be wise to check cranking compression just to know where you're at, but you must use a quality gauge and do it right... Once it is started and running, other than the idle issue...how does it run? If it runs good from half throttle and up...I'm leaning towards correct pilot/air screw adjustment. If it doesn't run too good after 1/2 throttle, I'm leaning on it's a worn top end.