dajogejr

Damn...you just a youngin Chris, I thought you were an old goat... I bet just by the looks of that bike it would surprise the hell out of a lot of guys as it rips right past them...lol.

I totally misread that...thank you sleeper. I thought he wanted to put a 10 mil cylinder AND a 10 mil crank on. You can do this one of two ways... You can spend a lot of time and money with a spacer plate and/or cut domes and a lot of porting on your cub, or you could sell your cub and buy an as cast 10 mil cylinder. If you had a 7 mil cylinder and wanted to jump to 10 you could make it work much easier. But stock stroke to 10 mil? That's way too much work and effort when you can easily bolt on a cylinder ready to go. I've seen guys try this both ways....7 up to 10 and a 14 down to 10. It's a lot of work and guessing....more time and money than what it's worth IMO...

Trench the cases, the 10 mil crank will not drop in. Shouldn't need to epoxy them...just trench 'em. Other than domes, that's all you'll need. Everything will bolt right up. If you ran a stock stroke cub, you either had 65 or 68mm pistons. I don't believe they make a 65mm 10 mil cub, if they do they are very, very rare. So, you might need pistons as well. You can't run as small of a dome on a 10 mil as you can a stock stroke... My advice is a longer swinger and a lockup. A 10 mil will smoke through even a heavy duty clutch without a lockup. You're adding about 10 to 20 HP on average, so think about tires, gearing, etc.

Old School.... Get your self a set of digital caliper already will ya? LOL. Would love to see one of these in a duner/trail bike.

Possible spring on the pawl broke, possible shifter out of adjustment, the eccentric nut loosened up, clutch could be trashed. Any way you slice it, at the very least the clutch cover and basket is coming off to see behind there and possibly repair/adjust things.

I've had to weld the puller on before...never had one that had to be cut off, welding always worked for me. Antiseize prolly isn't a great idea. Get some lapping compound on the new one and match the flywheel to crank surfaces that way, then wipe off the excess.

There is a metal dowel that keeps the race from spinning in the cases. Stock cranks and Vitos use that dowel. Hot Rods/Wiseco use an Oring. That dowel came loose and found the party.... I'm hoping it's just gonna cost me a set of slugs and domes...I'm gonnna be upset if it costs my plating.

Brudda...this has been a bad year for me, racing-wise. I've ridden 5 times this year and I'm done for now... Busy at work, busy at home...I guess in our economy, I can't complain. Went to WMSD with Rich (Richards) for the last race of the year, got my motor all back together last weekend...made one pass. This happened. I was geeked to try out my new sniper pipes and tune them....my weekend turned to Bud Light almost instantly...

Not trying to get down on you...but REALLY??? The number 1 player in the NBA had his contract expire making him a free agent. Is there anything in this world that made you or the Cavaliers think he WASN'T shopping around?? The fact he had meetings with several teams and that "LeBron 2010" hasn't been thrown in our face on every sports publication and website for the months and months leading up to the deadline?? That being said. It was a punk move by him to have his own 1 hour special and supposedly it was for "Charity"...BS. The old greats, Jordan, Barkley, etc., all said they would've never done what he did. But, they're not cashing his checks and he's his own man. Dan Gilbert is a whinny little bitch too. If the big 3 can gel in Miami, I don't see anyone beating them. But that's 3 pretty big egos....it could be an absolute disaster. LeBron is the best player in the NBA...even though he doesn't have a ring. Kobe is a close second IMO.

Replace the passenger side switch, simple as that. When you take the door off, get a 12 volt tester and make sure you are getting power to the switch, after that...replace it. OEM dealer is probably the only place you can go for that, it can't be too much.

JD... Let us know how this turns out. I hate to see anyone ripped off...but especially one of my bros who is more than honest and goes out of his way to help fellow riders out.

Well...to say I'm dissapointed with my luck would be an understatement. Gary @ Sniper busted his ass to get me these pipes on time for my race. I was in my garage putting it together every day last week...got done a little early Thursday and it fired right up. Loaded up and went to the track Friday. I made one pass...and was done. The Vito's crank has metal dowels instead of Orings to keep it from spinning the bearing races in the cases. When I split my cases and replaced the crank seal, these dowels were laying in the case instead of being in the crank race, so no biggie. I just put the dowels in the vice, mushroomed an end and pressed them back in. Well...after the first pass that dowel worked it's way loose and found it's way up in the cylinder. I don't know the extent of the damage, but at the very, very least a set of new pistons and a set of domes. I was really looking forward to run these pipes and give more feedback...but I spent more time drinking beer to drown my sorrows...: Gary...thank you so much for busting your hump to get these to me...and I'm sorry one pass on a wet track was all I got in. It normally takes me 2-3 passes to get tire pressure right, fuel/air, wheelie bar height, etc...so, no spectacular numbers from my one pass. I'm sending them off to my builder to let him try them out and see how they work for him...I hope his builds stay together a little better than mine...

If you had to pay for it...and $ was equal, would you buy an extended stock style swinger or would buy a roundhouse. You mentioned buying the best your checkbook would allow...and that case, a roundhouse carrier is CERTAINLY the best. Aside from that...if he's going to get a TZ...why don't you throw another few hundred in for straight cuts. Because common reasons for having straight cuts is a TZ bearing, right? I'm not saying he shouldn't get a TZ bearing IF he has everything else. All I'm saying is they are icing on the cake if all the other ingredients are there. Maxload is a great bearing, cheaper...and he's only building a 4 mil cub.

With that kind of budget aftermarket cylinders are out of the question. Keep the stock crank, just have the bearings checked, get it trued and welded. Stock cranks are damn tough IF they are taken care of right. A good dune port job will set you back 300 to 500 and a set of pistons, gaskets, fluids, etc., will run you another 250ish or so. The rest I'd spend on a new aftermarket clutch.

Pictures of the carnage please.

Talk to Andy @ M&M ATV. There's a new cylinder out called the serval....I think it'll be better suited for what you want. It's probably got 10% less HP than a cub but a much more friendly power delivery and usable power delivery unless all you do is drag race. Drag racers don't need low end or middle...just all top @ WOT. Once you get into 80 HP territory, plan on beefing up the clutch and doing shifting mods. At the very least, get every other dog cut off on the trans...but a dunable override is the ticket. There's a thread on here about the Serval Cylinder... Pricing is about the same as a cub, just a little cheaper for the cylinder. Plan on: Cylinder pistons crank You do NOT need a TZ bearing, OEM will be fine for what you're doing. If you have the EXTRA Cash, maxload bearing. Upgraded clutch basket and clutch, possible lockout Tranny mods (cut gears or override) Longer swingarm Longer brake line Bearing carrier (if you ran an extended stock style swingarm someone should kick you in the nuts...lol) Carbs, pipes, fuel valve. New Head with domes Timing plate You can make it a pretty fun ride keeping it conservative with pump gas...but compression and timing is where the power is.

I think that pipe is killing the motor and the gearing is F'd up big time.

I only fired it up on purge gas to make sure it'll fire...probably didn't run for more than a minute. Just wanted to warm it up a hair and check some bolts for torque. I can't wait to make passes and try different stinger IDs and lengths. I hope the weather holds up..

Sorry...best I have is two crappy cell phone pics. I was bustin my but to NOT be in the garage until midnight the day before the race. I fired it up...and am going racing tomorrow. Excuse the mess...it's been a LONG week!! Fit was very good. Best out of any OOF pipe I've used prior (CPI and Shearers) I put a small rubber washer between the pipe and peg. Two Orings to seal these pipes at the cylinder damn near gave me a hernia...tight fit. But I got them on. Keep in mind, PLEASE...these are test pipes. That being said...I can't Fricken wait to run tomorrow!!

As said earlier, make sure you measure your compression ratio, not cranking compression...to dictate your octane needs. Can you find a distributor anywhere around you that could sell you a 55 gallon drum for cheap? I love VP fuel...but it's just way too expensive. For what it costs me to buy 3 or 4 cans of M1 methanol I can get a 55 gallon drum. See if you can find an alternative source.

Hey Fred, What kind of equipment do you have to grade/scrape the track? Also, I've got my eyes/ears out for a water truck for you. Bob's in Clarksville is shut down and for sale. Perhaps you can talk to them about buying/borrowing their water truck.

I can't comment on fit...I just have a box with pipes right now. I'm sure they'll be just fine...

No....I completely respect that. Very few people do exactly what you do, but my point was sometimes it's used as a selling point but in reality people don't swap domes very often once they find a set they like and that works. You are absolutely the exception, and I used to ride long trail loops where you were stuck bringing two stroke oil with you, filling up at the pump and then dumping in the amount of oil needed and shaking the bejeezus out of your bike to "mix" it up. A better selling point along those lines would be, in my opinion, if you TRASH a dome from wear, internal grenade, detonation, etc., you can replace just the dome and normally don't have to replace the whole head..... I'm with you 100% on your reasoning...it's just a minor occurrence IMO. And thank you for the props...!

Just got mine in the mail... First off, without even putting them on my bike and I am ONLY talking about appearance here....WOW. PLEASE....the box just got here so I can not comment on fit, performance, etc. The head pipe where it connects to the cylinder has DOUBLE ORings. How nice. The welds are beautiful, smooth, etc. The finish is very, very nice. To the point when I get my real set (production set) I'll probably have it polished up a little and have them high temp clear coated. They look that nice. (If they run that well...you might have a hard time getting these back from me...lol). Seriously, I opened the box and first impressions of quality and finish are great. I'm riding tomorrow and Saturday and will have a ride report up soon.

He's only saying that because there was a HUGE, blowout and heated discussion regarding cool heads by any manufacturer vs. stock heads. So that being said, you asked, here's my personal opinion...which, if you put together with a dollar you could order off the value menu @ McDonalds. I like the cool head by Chariot. I've also used the Coolhead by Noss. Both are site sponsors and build a quality product. I like the Chariot for a few reasons over the Noss head. 1. Less Orings. It is a one piece shell instead of two pieces. Simple. 2. Looks. I like the flat profile with raised center for the dome tops/spark plugs. 3. Hardware. The 14mm chrome acorn nuts and brass washers to install the head are very nice, as well as the stainless bolts to hold the water neck on the back. 4. Chariot is based out of Michigan. I like to support local guys when I can IF their product is up to snuff and quality. Chariot's products are. Both are quality designs. Both use Orings which seal better IMO. Once someone got a dome for their bike they liked and performed well, I really haven't seen anyone change domes, so the "you can tune it with different domes" argument doesn't hold a lot of water with me....but, you could if you wanted to. With a stocker, what you get is what you got. ON gas trail bikes all the way to alky burning drag bikes, I've never seen a cooling difference...and I ran a stock cut head on my alky drag bike a while ago. An aftermarket head with domes is going to set you back a few hundred. A properly machined, chambered stock head will set you back 50 to 100. I can't tell you which is best for you, and most people have their own opinion on this just like if they drive a Ford, Chevy or Dodge....