dajogejr

I would tell you if you're keeping the porting stock and just throwing a spacer plate under it you'd be completely wasting your money on a stroker crank. You'd be spending a few hundred dollars to get 2-3% performance increase if that...and you'd have less options on pistons. If you get a 4 mil stroker crank and have it ported to match your riding style, you can get a LOT of power out of it and retain the stock power delivery...there will be just more of it.

@ 4600 feet, 18cc domes on pump fuel with modest timing like you have should be fine...as long as your jetted correctly. You ran it 10 years the way it was? At that point, IMO...it was time for a total tear down to inspect everything. Could be a number of things. At this point, just replace the crank...why mess with it. I'm sure it'll need two new pistons and a fresh bore/hone. After that, as said...test the leak down. You probably had an air leak or just age/wear from the cylinders. That long on a stock bore...I'm sure you had some blow by. While a lot of people think the only job of the rings is to seal the explosion, they also transfer heat away through the cylinders and let the cooling system do it's job as well. You could spend a whole lot of time trying to figure out what went wrong...but to be honest with that much time on it...I say freshen it up completely and be done.

99.999% of 4 mils don't need trenching...bigger does. I've heard of a 5 mil that didn't need trenching, but since 4, 7 and 10 are common...that's what I'm going off of. If it's bigger than 10 mil, you could see some epoxy under the rear of the cylinders, that's where it punches through. (You could see some on the bottom of the cases, depending on how hard you look) But as said...if you get worm holes or boysen ports...they often epoxy or weld for more material.

I had the Droid2 for a weekend. If it was my personal phone, I'd keep it. I love the apps, etc., (I'm on Verizon...) But for business, it's still no blackberry.... I had a real moral dilemma...do I keep the phone and make excuses (I could never support 30 plus mobile users on it...just too confusing for basic users) or do I turn it back in... I had to turn it in. It was pretty darn cool and fast as all hell. But from my perspective, a business/corporate customer stand point, it would've been a nightmare to administer and support. I'm looking forward to the new Windows 7 phones, the iPhone coming to Verizon and the Droid Pro coming out soon.... Again, not knocking the Droid phone, just can't do what I need it to do reliably and easily!!

I used to always use Bel Ray Gear saver oil in my trail bikes, MX bikes, etc. However....WCR cut my trans in my bike. Their instructions say to use ATF Type F. The biggest names in the biz say the same. Now...that being said.... a good buddy of mine has switched and is using Mobil 1 5W30 and has been. It works great for him... I like the fact you can get ATF Type F almost anywhere in a pinch, and obviously the same could be said for Mobil 1. Not so for Bel Ray, Klotz, etc. It could be argued that you make plans to have enough premix oil on hand, you should have extra gear oil too... My argument to that would be Premix is consumed constantly like gas, gear oil shouldn't be...(if it is, you got bigger issues, lol) In the end, I know what works for me...it's not a cost issue. It's a convenience and what works for me thing. I could buy 5 gallon cans of VP M1 (methanol) for 40 to 50 bucks a pop, I could have a warm and fuzzy feeling about it saying VP on the can. Instead, I buy a 55 gallon drum of Sunoco Methanol (Still 99.99 % pure) for 150 to 175 and I save a bunch, have fuel as long as I have a gas can to put it in....that lasts me a season if not more. You could say that VP has the best methanol available... I'd tell you my bike runs just fine on Sunoco Methanol....

And if that's the case, Ryan...then my apologies. But I took it personal the last line.... I don't skimp where it's important, but I don't overpay for stuff that's non-essential. I know my bike and motors/bikes overall well enough to know what works and what doesn't...

I own a banshee that would cost 10 to 15K to rebuild as I have it. (And obviously I know I can't sell it for that...) I replace my clutch every other year or sometimes once a year because of the strain put on it. I change my oil a few times a year because normally I'm pulling something off or fixing something (it's a drag bike, not a trail bike that gets ridden casually) I can't see dumping 20 bucks into the ground or into a drain pan when 5 bucks worth of ATF has never given me a shifting problem in over 4 years and thousands of passes on my bike. My transmission (an override, by the way) still looks as good as the day I put it in. There's spending money wisely and spending money. I know what my bike does, I know how it runs, I know how to maintain it. IMO, it's not about saving the money, for me it's about wasting it for what I do. I know how much it costs to replace every nut, bolt and screw on my bike. I don't go off an hour meter, I go off a time slip. I can assure you I can afford to buy the oil, so I'd be careful who you talk to and how when you say something uninformed like that. I probably have as much money wrapped up in my motor as you do your whole bike.

That's kinda true. There are two versions of the slingshot, one does fit under the stock clutch cover and it replaces your pressure plate. The one that fits under your stock cover is more expensive than a standard slingshot and a direct drive style...but it's replacing your pressure plate as said. The other, like I use, goes under an extended lockout cover. It goes over the top of the stock assembly just like a "direct drive" style does. The Slingshot uses ball bearings in a ramped groove that forces the ball bearings against the outer plate, forcing it against the pressure plate to lock as you go faster. The Direct drive style works off speed as well, but uses weighted arms that "Swing out" to apply the pressure to the pressure plate. Both work, I've used both, I like the slingshot myself.

Judging by the smile on Tyler's face...I'm gonna have to say after...

No offense guys...but at 11 a quart plus shipping, I can go to any local auto store and get Type F in person for 2 or 2.50 per quart. I probably change my trans fluid 2-4 times a season....not much of a saving point IMO...

I've spent 5 years now trying to break this damn thing. It barely shows any signs of wear. I've sure as hell broke a lot of things in those 5 years...but this isn't one of them. The fact that it is very inexpensive only makes it better. I'm thinking about getting another for my bike...but after tearing it down a month ago, I honestly think it'd be a waste of money. Mine is still in that good of shape....

I agree...too much compression and timing. 20 to 21cc domes and start off with 7 degrees of timing and check the plug burn. You might be able to get away with that setup in 300feet, I don't think it'll last for 660 or 1320.

Guys, I ride with Joe at the track. If I didn't see him there and watch him make passes I swear it was a trailer/garage queen, it's that clean. Attention to detail and cleanliness on this bike are sickening, flat out.

Sniper Pipes....they're new to the market but are nice looking/crafted pipes. Talk to Gary or Jim about them, and they are a site sponsor!

My Shearers will be for sale in a while. However, you're 4th in line if you want 'em...behind Evan, old man John and Jeff N. Evan gets first crack at 'em....

I'll tell you guys what... You don't know Adams, you do know me. If these pipes aren't 110% of what you expect of them, I'll give you 110% of the price you pay for them. Brad (Adams) and his family are some of the nicest folks at the track, and I'm seriously jealous of how nice his stuff is every time I race with him. It almost makes me sick how clean and perfect his stuff is. Brad is a snomo guy and just getting into the banshee stuff. I promise you that anything he sells is perfect, eat off it perfect. You have MY word. I will not stick out my neck for anything that is questionable. Not only will I stick out my neck I will personally guarantee your satisfaction or I will buy the pipes off you. You can personally PM me if you have any questions on this seller or the product. I will promptly answer any and all PMs. Dave

Anything is possible. As said...it didn't come that way. You can bore and perhaps nikasil them...but I think the sleeve would be thin. You should be able to tell if there is a sleeve in them or not.

Chris... Jeff (Snop) just has a way of typing, he doesn't mean to offend anyone by it. Him and I have gone rounds in the past because of how bull headed we both are. That being said... Don't take his bluntness as being harsh, that's just how he is. He's not discrediting you or your work or what you're trying to do. He just rides a different way, and I've come to respect and value his opinion greatly, he's very good at what he does, just as you are. And he's very thorough as well. While he probably won't type up an apology (that' how he is...lol) I thought it would help hearing it from my perspective...that's all. Chris, I've always valued your input and advice here and other places. Don't let anyone or anything get you down, you're doing a great job.

I'd love to see that power plant in a modern suspended chassis....

You two weren't alone, by the campfire at 2 AM talking about two stroke theory...were you? Moonshine involved?? LOL..... Well, he's also getting it done pretty damn well on the 4 strokes too...

Are you sure they are 66.50mm cub cylinders? Anything is possible...that's just an odd size...as said. 65 and 68 are what they came in. Are they sleeved? You won't save any money from 7mil to 10. Crank cost the same, trenching is the same.... Unless you found a used set of 7mil stuff for DIRT cheap or are competing in a 450cc and under class, go with the 10 mil.

Looks like we posted at the same time...lol. I've ridden fatty bikes, T5s I actually owned...and gold pipes. IMO...the fatty is the best low-mid of the three pipes. I would agree T5s are very, very close in power output to the old school gold series.

I think since Andy is willing to let Snop try one out...he can make his own conclusions. I agree with Tim and Chris...most duners want this kind of power/setup. I don't see to many shees being used in MX...but tight trails are another thing. That being said...I can't see 80HP at any RPM range/torque curve being usable or worthwhile if the terrain and conditions are that tight. It'd be like having a top fuel dragster to go up and down the driveway...how fast can you really go?

I can see your point on everything on that list except for fatties...you think Fatties are a mid-top pipe Jeff?

Shit, you're younger than me. I'm one old F'er.... How did you get to be the professor at such a young age? LOL....