dajogejr

Great guy to do biz with, even better to have fun with and get drunk/do stupid shit with at the track. Kinda sucks at arm wrestling though...lol. (No Jeff...I'm still not your type...lol)

ATT's speed on 3 G is better, hands down. Their voice reliability sucks compared to Verizon. But...if where you are...ATT is good and you need the speed, get it. I'm with you on that. Call clarity, reliability and coverage is better overall by a large margin with Verizon. Their data speed sucks. I agree 100%. However... Verizon is launching their 4G network (also called LTE) and is in some states now, and will very good coverage by end of this year. Will it be in the sticks? No. I understand the call/data at the same time issue. Some people need it...MOST do not. I can still access my email for reference on my BlackBerry on Verizon, I just can't send or receive any new ones or surf the web while I'm on the phone. 99% of the time, I only need to reference an email for a caller, which I put on speaker, go to my email and tell them over the phone what they need to know. Grand Rapids has the 4G towers...it is fast. Once LTE/4G is common place, GSM phones will lack big time. The GSM 4G network is behind schedule compared to Verizons. CDMA is the number 1 technology in the US and China. And who has the most cell phones in the world? US and China. Everywhere else is GSM....so pick your battles. I think the early adopters of the iPhone on Verizon are going to be disappointed in speed IF they came over from ATT. If they've always been Verizon, they won't know any better. Personally, I'm getting an iPhone when they hit Verizon to test the email, calendar and contacts for corporate use. They have to work as well as a BlackBerry. (We have a corporate BES server for email, iPhone and Droids use Active Sync) it is NOT the same as your home Gmail, Hotmail or Yahoo account. So I don't want to hear how well it does your home email...I get it. To be honest, the phone I'm waiting for is the Windows 7 phone coming to Verizon, once the LTE is put in place. Using one for a few minutes @ ATT store, they're simple, fast...and solid phones.

What I think is funny is a bunch of people that don't have first hand knowledge think it's their right to chime in on this deal. Unless you personally were there when the bike was sold, torn down, looked at, etc...how do you know what the deal is? I like both people in this dispute. I've personally dealt with Tripled's a number of time over the years and he has been absolutely great to me, and I've tried to return the favor. In my opinion, as stated by someone else earlier, I think this motor and build was way over Dave's head. I don't think he purposely mislead Art in the trade/sale of this quad. That being said...it is his responsibility and his alone to make it right. Tyler... I know this is the HQ and we pride ourselves in saying what we want, etc. However....two other sites have done away with outsider cheer leading without first hand knowledge of the events. I understand what you're going to say about protecting the members from bad sellers...I get that. Shouldn't you protect the seller/buyer from misinformation being spread, etc. What if Art is a total dipshit and a liar (Art, by no means am I saying that...this is JUST an example...I already said it's Dave's responsibility to make this right) Here's an example... A while back some people came on here talking shit about a builder, saying he's a hack, etc. Everyone jumped on ship, saying they agree, etc. Then, from a little research and forum knowledge I POSTED links on other forums where the very people that were calling him hack had absolutely praised his work in the past, etc. And suddenly everything did a complete 180 turn around.... All I'm saying is, if you're not the buyer or seller...stay out of it. Give tripleds time to make this right. I know Dave, he's not trying to screw anyone. Is he a little hot headed and hot tempered? Sure...we all can be (Myself included). Keep in mind, this deal didn't even transpire on HQ or ATVDragracers, it transpired on PlanetSand. (Yes...I know, lots of members are members on all three sites, I get that. keeping members safe...I get that.) Just saying....let the two parties involved figure it out, give them ample time. This kind of deal isn't solved overnight.

Joe, I've heard/seen it go both ways.... Guys with 4 mil cubs saying they shift fine and guys with ported stock stroke/stock cylinder saying they don't shift for shit. I can tell you with a mint stock trans my 4 mil cub shifted like absolute shit...and I should've put one in. NO brainer for my 10 mil drag bike but it's purpose built. I understand setup is key...but Joe I know how meticulous you are with your stuff, setup isn't even a question in my mind....

No sir... Just read a TON of issues...backlog, and hear a few builders talking about how it effected them as well. I thought about one myself, the offer to convert one from a traditional dunable done by him was enticing. Then I thought about it...never have I had any shifting issues and all my bike is used for is drag racing. Why spend more money to fix what isn't broken.

Matt Shearer himself will tell you he designed his small bore pipes for anything under the 535 Cheetah Motor. You've more than likely got a small flange, but measure to be sure. Since you are looking at inframes, two names I'd try. Sniper (Site sponsor, high quality) or CPI. I run a drag bike, have only made one pass with his out of frame pipe, so I can't comment on performance. I can comment on quality. It's top notch and impressive...flat out.

I wouldn't give WCR a dollar of my money after the "EXTREME" transmission fiasco, etc. Matt...why did you get a cut trans if it ran fine on a stocker (Not being a smart ass, just asking...)

And here I thought this was going to be a thread about my ex-girl....LOL. X2 on what dirty said. Anything fuel/air passes over (intakes, transfers, etc.) need to be a little rough. Exhaust gasses escape polishing is fine. To be honest, don't spend a lot of time making it look like a mirror. Size/shape/angle of the ports is a lot more important than how it looks.

Have the transmission modded to shift better. Kevin Herr @ HJR does a tranny mod that will make it shift MUCH better than stock. However, nothing is as good as an override, period. You specifically said no on that. I would get a heavy duty clutch kit, billet basket and a pancake bearing. Otherwise, you don't need a set of straight cut gears, way overkill on a trail bike. I don't think you'll need a lockup either, just some good stiff springs. You're about to triple or quadruple the power of your motor. Is your chassis/suspension up to snuff?

I'd say it's close. Weight has to do with MPH as well... I'm 250..I go through the traps at 72 to 76MPH. I put a 175lb guy on it and it's 76 to 80MPH, same gearing. 10 mil cub 10,500 RPM (Best guess) 22 inch 14 paddle tire 16/47 or 46 gearing 2nd 45.01 3rd 54.37 4th 65.24 5th 78.04

Exactly what I intended to do last year J....it just didn't happen. Open your thinking a bit. If this pipe makes a little more power but sooner, as well as torque... It's not always how much power you make vs. how you make the power.... That being said...if I got 1/2 to 1 tenth I'd be ecstatic. It takes a lot of work to shave a tenth in 300 foot on a well tuned bike.

Go read what I put on his FB page...even better!!

Oh boy..I"m going to say this very cautiously.... As the owner of the site...I could say the same about certain sponsors and their products. I'll leave it at that.... By the way, happy birthday fucker...

You left that part out... and that makes perfect sense. Since you don't build them/preassemble them yourself, I'm 100% certain Cameron checks everything before he sends it to you. I thought you were just buying stuff and throwing it together....if someone else does it for you and you are paying for that, different story. I don't think the last part is apples to oranges when you factor in your builder is checking all this for you. If the drivers of the car didn't have a team (i.e. builder) who specific job was to do just that...then yes, someone has to check it... I again disagree on the whole aftermarket air filter thing (Maybe an air filter is too simple of an example, but nonetheless...I threw it out there). Aftermarket performance is not Walmart. When Walmart sells 10 mil banshee cranks...I promise you I will come back here and agree 100% with you. Lastly...what does Cam or Crankworks say about that 18 mil crank and why it failed? Is it billet or forged? I can tell you the 10 mil crank works crank I had was damn near bullet proof. Used off ebay, thousands of passes over 3 years and it finally shit a TZ bearing. I retired it...lol.

Sorry...I support over 150 HP Notebooks, desktops and servers. 99 times out of 100 it's something the user did. Over half of my PCs and notebooks I support are 3 to 5 years old. Just about all my problems are "I just clicked and didn't really read..." and usually I get that answer after I'm looking at it for 10 minutes.

I had three on my buddies bench, I watched him check two...mine and alcoholbanshee's. I run a cub, he runs a twister. I can't promise you the exact number on each (I know it was less than .003, I think they were both under .002 but I'd be lying if I said I remember for sure or I wrote it down). They were both checked before and after the TZ was installed, and the outer pins were welded all the way around. I didn't see him unbox the third...but he said he's bought about 10 of the Vitos 10 mils, all were less than .003 and were ready to run out of the box. Did any of us check them in the cases? No....that I've never done.

I strongly disagree. If they were sending you a stock crank to rebuild a stock motor...you'd have my support 100%. When you're taking a motor that makes -/+ 30 HP stock and doubling, tripling or quadrupling that...that nature of things change. Do you check squish after assembling a motor? Do you check compression? Do you check compression ratio? How do you know what you've got if you're just throwing it together? Again..if this was a stock build, like replacing the air filter in your car....then I'd agree with you 100%. It's not, this is aftermarket, and everything should be checked. Argue till you're blue in the face Tyler, but any competent builder on this board or any other, in any other line of building engines would disagree with you. You think these guys that build 100K Nascar motors should have to check every square inch of what they put together for a race? No, your 700 dollar crank is a drop of piss in a bucket compared to what they put together...but I promise they check every square millimeter of that car, it's motor, etc. Just sayin bro. Stock motor and cases weren't designed to handle a stroker crank, bigger pistons, after market cylinders, etc.

Microsoft Security Essentials, free...light and it works. Malwarebytes Free stand a lone scanner. And use common fricken sense.... Call HP and they will walk to you through a diagnostic routine. If you get a tech from India...DEMAND they put you through to a "Mainland" support tech. As soon as I hear that 7-11 want to buy a slurpee voice, my blood boils instantly.

I've got a Vitos' crank. The good...it was true and welded pretty good out of the box, I had a weld put all the way around the pin instead of just the left and right sides... The bad is that it doesn't use Orings, it uses the metal dowel pin...and I had one let go and get sucked up in the top of my motor. I'm going to use a loctite specifically made for bearing races, in a new set of cases for this year. It's a 10X better quality item than some of these other cranks I've been seeing for dirt cheap. It's priced better than a crank works and obviously way cheaper than a billet twister, but more money than a current cheapo Chinese. Two bad cranks in a row....you're having my kind of luck lately!

If I can get the paddle tires I want for a reasonable price this year, you guys have me thinking of a whole new setup...I like where you guys are going with this...

You dumb asses....Cheeth Club is a totally nude club in Windsor, Canada... Take off, eh... LOL. http://www.cheetahsofwindsor.com/

That or they have a 45 lb jockey...lol.

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Too bad new tires are pricey...I'd just sell you my tires but I don't know what kind I would want to get...lol. 72 to 74 rollout 14 extremes on an 8 inch rim is a great starting point for a 4-10 mil cub. There are too many variables on any given day at any given track to get the perfect tire. You either get a tire that works well at most places, or you have a few sets of tires that work the best at any one given location....and of course with temperature, moisture and gearing...it changes...

This might be a dumb question, but why did you buy RDZ cylinders from Vito's when they both sell their own cylinder?