dajogejr

1.3 60 foot times will get you noticed every time... I hope, for your sake...adding tires won't kill your 60 foot but increase your ET/MPH.. Or you may have to go back and adjust the clutch a little, gearing and/or air pressure. 1.3 is about as good as it's gonna get on a small to mid size motor on sand. You're probably used to low 1.2 60s on pavement...

Probably have to go up 2-3 sizes on the main IF you were jetted perfect before. You need to jet where you ride, a few thousand feet from your house is quite a difference in jetting. It might be crisp at your house but blubbery where you ride, or worse...crisp where you ride but lean at your house. You might have to richen up the air screw 1/4 to 3/4 turn, if it starts and idles poorly even after warmed up and off the chokes...richen it up by turning each air screw in 1/4 turn until it clears up and runs strong.

Yep, I'd start with the needle too..but I'd go the other way, I'd try riching it up. I always give more fuel first, if it gets worse, then you know you're going in the wrong direction safely... Lean goes boom, rich goes blahhhhh...

5 to 10HP and a tenth to tenth and a half at the track (300 foot) and 2-3 tenths in 1/8 or 1/4 mile for the pavement guys. You can buy power elsewhere for 550 bucks. Some of the fastest bikes on the planet with the best builders use stock ignition. On that same note...as I've said, I spent I believe around 120 or 130 bucks for the Nology coil and wires on my old bike. I spent that for a few reasons...one, trick. It looked nicer and cleaner. But more importantly, anyone with any knowledge of electrical will tell you a good ground is crucial. The hotwires with their extra ground strap give you that. Can you run an extra few wires to ensure a good ground, absolutely....but those braided steel cables for ground look killer... I would hope someone would have a port job before spending money like that on ignition...but thanks for covering the basic steps.

I wholeheartedly agree. PVL is beyond the realm of many's understanding. Dyno stock, Nology and this device. IF this device jumps off the page, they may have a winner. If not...it'll join the ranks of boost bottles.

If you want to make it a real challenge, I say use another third party coil and wires as well. Stock, I vote for Nology coil and hot wires, and the Takai setup. I'm going to try and stay positive on this...and will watch this with great interest. My old 10 mil on alky and before that my 4 mil cub on gas always started very, very easy. I always accounted that to pretty good tuning and a good ignition setup. I really liked my old Nology setup I got from FAST. I'm curious, but naturally skeptical of this... I hope this thread remains civil and informative. I applaud Schweetz for doing the right thing in asking for the owner's permission to post this. Being a track kinda guy, I'd have to see a big difference in dyno runs to even think it would make a difference at the track... Watching with interest! I will say this, for bling factor I think they look pretty damn cool...

In addition to what Sandman said...What other mods are done to your bike, both now and in the immediate future?

I don't know to be honest...just pokin fun is all.

Site looks good. A whole bunch of familiar stuff in there.... I agree..you should be able to click on a scrolling image and have it stop the scrolling and supa size the pic. I use firefox as my browser, and don't see the maximize button...

I know this is old...but you need to measure compression ratio, not cranking compression. You get cranking compression by using a PSI gauge in the cylinder. You get compression ratio by measure parts/clearances/tolerances inside the motor. Cylinder volume and trapped head volume are just a few of the numbers you'll need. I agree, this has been covered a lot, and it's easier to search the forum and Google for it rather than any of us rewrite a novel!!

This thread is JUST a bit old...that being said, my original thoughts were an asphalt setup would not work on 300ft dirt/sand. I stand by that. HOWEVER... a modified setup, I'm sure that would. Slower Than and Tedder are doing stuff on pavement that is incredible, without a doubt. (Don't mean to drag anyone in here...just sayin' what I know) I remember seeing SlowerThan's timeslip a while back, but I don't remember what track or what event. I do remember it was pretty good...to be honest. If I remember, it was a well known and respected track...it wasn't Bob and Jim's backyard drag o rama. Another reason i got out of this sport (for now) is the drama. I wholeheartedly admit I was the cause of or carried on about some of the drama myself. I'm not throwing rocks in a glass house. I just don't miss the BS, I don't miss those who think they're king shit and really have only raced a bunch of court jesters. (Not saying that about anyone in particular in this thread, just in general...) When most of our original comments were made in this tread, it was 2 and a half years ago. Things have changed, things will always change...if not, we get no faster and actually get nowhere. It would be nice if SlowerThan could post up some clutch information on what they do and how they set it up. HOWEVER...if they wanted to keep that to themselves for their own personal benefit, that is 100% up to them and I wouldn't begrudge him in the least.

That's for sale by Askin motorsports. I've talked to Pat (Patrick)...real nice guy, and if he's price competitive I'd pick one up. I wasn't aware Jeff @ FAST had one, obviously if he has the same thing I'd use him first. These are the little things that add up, Joe... When I build another motor, it's this kinda stuff I'm going to put on the inside. Won't get me a tenth or anything of the like, it will just get me more passes...

If the OP has a 465cc 10 mil, 70mm bore Serval...call Guiness...cause he's the only one that has one.

Small Bore... Unless Andy specifically states either way, since he is touching up/working on your porting, he should know...go small. Matt Shearer will tell you SB for anything under 535cc, what he originally built the BB for (535 Cheetah)... If you were only going to drag only over a long distance...I'd say BB. Otherwise, SB. That being said, I ran BB on my 10 mil, Chris still is running them and they run pretty damn good. Ask Tyler, he'll tell you that big buy was flying on the BHQ ride.

Good genes... Sorry I 'm late to this party. I sold my 10 mil setup to Chris. And I have every intention in getting back when I'm ready to hit the track again. Chris wanted a tried and true platform to showcase his chassis and setup...and I can't tell you how proud and impressed I am in what he's done. If you think it moves good with a 340 lb man on it...wait till you see what it does tuned for a smaller rider...as long as I owned the motor, I never regeared it or set it up for a lighter rider, ask lil jockey... HJR built me a monster motor for sure. There's a lot of engine builders, chassis builders and machinists out there. There's only one that's right for you. Hit Chris up. As said, this guy never stops thinking of ways to improve things and make them faster, stronger, etc. Some of his ideas and methods for safety and longevity blow my mind away...his welds are clean, strong and top notch. You're not rollin down the strip at 80MPH on some bent up tubes welded up by uncle Ed's buzz box arc welder...his equipment and talents are the shit... Roll out!

Yep...don't care who cuts it...that'll do it real quick. Lucky the racks weren't smoked. He broke the cheap parts...LOL. What people need to realize is that Overrides are almost in 2 gears at the same time, while that may be just fine for up shifting under full load, what they're designed to do..downshifting with a load, especially a backload...will cause big issues. Maybe not at lower speeds or less load from the motor, but most certainly at higher loads/speeds. I've seen shitty "looking" welds on override drums and they shift like a dream. They don't have to look pretty to work good. Got lucky my man...

Drama makes the world go round...sheesh. Is this how I sounded in my rants and drama posts in the past? Sheesh...someone smack me.

The reason I say that is because you and many others have told me in the past how bad this track can be, how tough it is to find traction, how big motors get beat by smaller motors, etc. Don't get me wrong....shit happens. Bad start, broken bike, red light, etc. But in the world of the common (notice I didn't say the norm...) bigger bikes generally take down the little ones. I'm not talking 4 mil cubs vs 10 mil, I'm talking big DMs vs. stock cylinders, etc. Now, if the track has changed that drastically over the years, then I apologize to you and to the track owner. I was told by several people not to bother bringing my old bike out there all the way from MI...if that is no longer the case, then I apologize. So back to my point...if the track is that tough and inconsistent...that's my basis for running at a more consistent and common track. I am not trying to make light or insult you or your tuning abilities, or anyone else that runs at the track, I'm going on information that was given to me in the past by you and others who do run it.

I think you guys all need to hit a better known track and see how you stack up. Not trying to stir the pot...not trying to downplay what you guys are doing. Let's face it, though... See what these bikes, tuners and riders do in the two most common enviornments... 300 foot paddle tracks and 660 foot (1/8 mile) pavement. The biggest and best names in the sport rely on those measurements at noted tracks.... I know this is all about the fun, don't get me wrong...but it would be nice to compare apples to apples...not apples to watermelons.

I went to the track this last Sunday with Wheelmanslim and rode my old motor in a new chassis setup. (Thanks Chris...) The track we went to had whacked timers...it was more of a run for fun type day. Lights worked, whomever got to the end works...but the timers did not. Unless you can believe that a guy next to me ran over 500MPH....twice...LOL. My intention was to put my Sniper pipes on this bike and run it back to back against my old Shearer pipes as well (A well proven, consistent setup) but there was NO WAY in hell anyone of the 40 plus machines out there was running consistent or any kind of real numbers. Again, it was run for fun type deal After riding (buying) my old HJR 10 mil cub, Wheelmanslim is going to send his other 10 mil to HJR for some love. although I'm semi retired...lol, I'm going to work with Chris next year to give the pipes a fair test on proven bikes at proven tracks. (Not a knock on ya Brad, but after 6 years with my old motor...its solid and consistent as the day is long, and I'm the only guy to ever tune on it...) This track just wasn't the right one to test and tune on it. Gonna be a long winter...

Ditto... I've had PROPERLY setup forged cranks (trued and welded) last years and hundreds if not thousands of passes. My old crankworks forged crank was used when i bought it, I added a TZ on the PTO side and anyone that rode with me knows I put over a thousand passes on that crank. The TZ bearing finally went out on it (I don't run straight cuts...don't believe in them on a smaller motor) That being said, I purged mine regularly, kept it in a good state of tune, etc. I personally would stay away from the bottom of the line cheapo cranks...many of the site sponsors sell quality cranks, hit them up.

Keep in mind Joe...we used to Tip Bob's folks at the track a good hundo or so. Phil has always been good about grading the track when we asked, etc. Looking forward to this, Probably get there a little early to setup with Wheelman. Let's hope we good some nice weather...

Hell to the yeah... dajogejr +1 pit bike...lol.

As long as Chris (wheelman) is in, I'm in. I haven't seen the crew all year, hoping to see a few at Hopper's bachelor party. Rich said he is interested as well....might have a few more after the weekend.

I will sell this to any Banshee HQ member for 450 flat, free shipping. If you pay via Paypal you'll have to either gift it or eat the fees. If you have any questions, PM me or put them here. I'll try to answer as quick/best as I can. Tuesday I'll be on the road all day... http://www.ebay.com/...984.m1555.l2649 Not a thing wrong with it...but I got lucky and scored an HP Touchpad as part of the fire sale (99 bucks shipped) and for what I need it for, that works much better. I have over 700 invested into this thing, 400 for the tablet, 150 for the keyboard which is also a second battery, 35 for the ghost armor screen protector, 100 for the squaretrade warranty, 20 for the case/bag, 20 for the 8GB Micro SD Card.... It's rooted with a Prime ROM on it right now, I can leave that on, I can turn it back to factory default, etc. It is WiFi only. Front and rear camera, GPS, etc. It is sweet...but as said, I use it to play a game or two, check email and cruise the net, I have a tablet that does that... **Best Part. The square trade warranty is good through July 2013. It is accidental damage. The only thing it does NOT cover is theft or loss. If you drop it, submerge it in a lake...spill your beer on it, it is covered. This warranty is 100% transferable to you, and it has a $50 dollar deductible**