dajogejr

Just remember, the world is flat....

Pull the other side piston and look for the same discoloration, that's a whole lot of heat, especially to break at the big end of the rod like that.

But...But...it helps make his point, they're so good. Steer clear of Dicks, how original. Since I've been to WMSD, Ionia, Clarksville more times than I can count...just when again where you there? My 10 mil WAS a runner, I don't have to think. My Planet Sand results from YEARS ago still speak to that. Along with anybody else I ran with, with whom none of them know you either. What a coincidence. Chris, the next old owner of the motor, said it felt like it picked up. However, he will tell you...he has NO times slips to prove that. So...what were you saying again? Oh....time to add an emoticon, that's what. Mid 4 second passes are easy. I'm 250 plus pounds and I can do that missing a gear and sleeping at the tree. You took one tree against Goodale? Oh wow....you must be the new king, record holder at WMSD. Let me check... When you start a sentence with "100% of my opinion is correct...."... that's kind of an oxymoron, isn't it? Guess it's fitting coming from a moron. It's not that you had a problem with them. Shit happens. It's the fact you keep ranting and raving about it like a little kid who's parents took their favorite toy away that I had to laugh at. But that would explain the need to talk with smiley faces. Silly me for not understanding that sooner. Funny, Matt Shearer himself said a 10 mil cub could go either way, small or Big Bore. But he only makes the pipe, what does he know compared to a duner like you...probably nothing. Smaller motors beat bigger motors all the time? No shit...thanks. I thought Mike Wallace from 60 minutes was dead...so you must be his reincarnation. Thanks for the news flash. So, you're comparing NASCAR, Indy, NHRA to what WE do... you're just a little off base there...aren't you? Do we have sanctioning bodies that check measurements to the mm like they do? No. Weight limits, scales, ??? No. Apples to apples....but I don't have to tell you that, in all your wisdom surely you didn't over look something simple like an organized set of rules for a sport...right? I realize and understand this thread is about in frame pipes. However, the title is Shearer or Sniper, and since I've had Shearer, and have Snipers....again...what do you have? Oh, just a keyboard and emoticons, that's right. I'm pretty sure over the years I've helped plenty of people Johnny boy...and aside from rant about Trinity, what have you done? Oh, set the world on fire with a better reaction time from one run than a Goodale and a mid 4 second run. Hold on while I go cream my pants. Please...I need some more smiley's in my life...you seem to have enough of them. Pair them with a coherent thought... you might be on to something. Doubt it... :headbang::headbang::headbang::headbang::headbang:

Are you running down a track, or just in the dunes? If you're running a track, bump it. If you're duning/riding, leave it. Too much heat to sustain. No problem with a few second run.

A. Obviously you don't know me either, I'm not a grease monkey, I'm a white collar office douche bag. Get it right. B. I've owned both pipes, still own the Sniper, more than I can say for you, so I offer more to the thread than you do. C. I'm sorry if I offended you and your butt hurt about Windy. You can have bottom for him tonight, if it makes you feel better. D. You come on here Stating my opinion is worthless. I'm here to say it holds more weight than yours, which...you don't have by the way....who told who their opinion is worthless? so... E. E is for Eat Shit. F. F is for the Fuck in Go Fuck Yourself...dumbass. Sig mods? you think I'm going to give you that kind of respect by actually reading that from you? Do you have the coolest or fastest signature here? Sweet...go get 'em Sig Racer...

2 things. OOF frame pipe is definitely in play since there are more OOF pipes for drag racers out there than in-frame. Go to a track, tell me who runs in-frames. Performance is decided at the track with lights and timers. The rest is for fun. Second, Judge...do you own a set Snipers? No. You should have actually read what I wrote. I commented I don't know the performance. Thanks for co-signing on that. I commented on the quality and construction. Which is still more than you know. I tested the old rockets, not the new....they fit like shit. Good luck getting to your plugs or your fuel valve. And it was like having beer kegs between your knees. If you would take your head out of your ass for just a moment, I can promise you my opinion holds just a drop or two more water than yours. I've forgotten more shit than you'll ever know. I've made more passes on a track than miles you'll ride on the trails. My old bike saw over a thousand passes easily over the years. Why don't you do a little research before you open your mouth and get in a pissing match in which you can't even find your dick...and if you did, you wouldn't know what to do with it.

Ok...here we go again. First off, I'm not a fan of Passion or Jim. I respect him as a builder, his riders love him, and that's what's important. I hold no ill will against him or his bikes. He's a smart guy, no doubt. I just wanted to state I'm not a fan boy, to be clear. Second, everyone is tagging Sniper PIpes with Passion, which is wrong. They are separate companies. Jim is selling them for Gary. He's their outlet....I honestly can't say if he has more, I don't know. Third, I don't believe a thing WindyJohn says. When you have to put emoticons throughout your posts to be cute, funny or try to make your point...you lost ground. After his constant whining about Trinity, I don't have confidence in his ability or tuning skills. Especially since he's a Silver Lake dunes guy but yet I've never heard of or seen him at West Michigan drag which...is only a few miles away. So separate a duner from a racer. I sold my 10 mil cub to WheelmanSlim. It was always a runner. It had Shearers on it for 90% of it's life. I never ran small bore shearer on it...Chris did and said it picked up everywhere. He sold that motor. Gary sent me a set of OOF test pipes in 2010. I only made one pass with them. A bearing pin/stay on my crank came loose and ruined my weekend of racing. One pass...so I can't comment on performance first hand, which I'm dissapointed with, and here's why... The quality is outstanding. Welds, flange, fit, etc. Matt builds a nice pipe. If he didn't, we wouldn't keep using that as the benchmark for drag racing. I had quality issues with my Shearer pipes. Matt and I both agreed we could have handled it better than we did. I hold no hurt feelings or grudges against him, and I hope he doesn't against me. I'm planning on getting back in next year with an HJR OEM cylinder motor (trail port....lol, kidding) and a Wheelman Chassis. I am going to ask HJR and Gary to work together for an optimal setup for the pipes Gary gave me. That's only fair. Then we'll see what they can do. I threw down the gauntlet a few months ago, I have OOF adjustable stinger pipes from Sniper. A reputable builder is welcome to test with them. All I asked is they take care of the pipes and pay for shipping. People are too busy, or don't want to get into politics. First one through the brick wall always gets bloody...that's how it is. Lastly, price. I'm tired of hearing about price. People spend an extra 50% on a part to have it chromed or polished which does absolutely nothing to make your bike faster, but yipe about extra money for a performance part. What about tires? Tires are expensive as all hell...and you have absolutely no guarantee a $500 to $900 set of paddles will make you any faster or slower. But you buy them anyways. That custom paint job that set you back a few K sure doesn't make you any faster. I'm tired of hearing about the price. Those that want to go faster will pay to do so. Lectron carbs are probably twice the price of a set of PWKs. How much HP do they give you? Not much if any....but they are quicker and easier to tune IN MY OPINION. Finally, unless you've personally ran these pipes, know FIRST hand and witnessed them on a dyno (who cares about a dyno) and or a track run...you have no room to talk. Go to the chat room or other discussion room to blabber. This guy asked for an opinion of the pipes, if you don't have the pipes, don't have any access to any REAL data or testing on them...what's the point of you posting?? I know I'm going to get hated on...but before you open your mouth, answer this question. Do you have the pipes this man asked about? If not...save your reply for someone else.

Get rid of any Ricky Stator ignition part for starters. They are garbage, period. You'll chase your tail forever on electrical/tuning issues. 17cc domes is a little tight for my liking unless you're above 4000 feet elevation. Even on a 4 mil. I've always been a fan of more timing and less compression. To be honest, to get the best performance you'd use different domes for alky as you do gas. However, you're looking for a do all/be all motor, you'll have to sacrifice a little performance in order to just swap frames and carbs. I always start at 7 on timing. On my old 300 foot bike I ran 7 to 11 degrees of timing, high .040s to mid .050's squish on a 20cc dome. This was a 10 mil cub, granted, not a 4 mil.

Nothing shifts like an override, period. However, my advice is to get a modified/cut stock tranny. I don't know anything about Wicked....but I'd talk to them first. I'm sure other site sponsors like HJR and FAST can help as well. There are a few bolt on mods that will help, but in my opinion, you'll have to go more. Cut every other dog off the tranny for starters, making sure the main shafts are clean, straight and bur/wear free... I had a 4 mil cub and a new clutch with the pancake bearing/pusher mod, and my stock trans was in great shape, under full power it just wouldn't shift reliably.

Throw a little more timing at it before you raise compression. What is it at now? You'll know when you have too much timing when your ET stays the same but your MPH dips off....then you hit the wall.

IMO a good running cub @ sea level is at 120ish on HP. If you're coming in just under 110 at 7200 feet without any kind of correction (sorry, I just kinda browsed this thread) I'd say you're doing outstanding. Apples to apples, you're going to be down 10 to 20% on HP compared to a sea level read, there's no way around it. However, I don't know what correction map you used or was used... 120 is a good number to shoot for on a 10 cub on alky. The rest is chassis, gearing and clutch tuning.

Quality and fitment on my OOF snipers (test build pipes) were excellent. Do his inframe pipes have the double Oring at the header? Welds are nice, I got mine raw....a little elbow grease, a scotchbrite pad and WD40 keep them looking nice. Just make sure you clean them after the ride, don't wait weeks.

Just like all your other posts, you're missing the point by a country mile. Thanks for pointing out the blatantly obvious. Carry on, school clearly must be out for the summer.

WTF is wrong with you guys. Take this to off topic if you want to discuss Sled HP on a Banshee Website. How is any of this relevant or helpful in this thread. Grow and Shut the Fuck up all at once.

We run 14 over arms here and use at least 14 paddle extremes. If you're hillshooting, with the weight transfer you might be ok, but for flat drags, you need more hook.

Sorry, Jim, I respectfully disagree regarding crankworks cranks. And maybe because I got a good one, but I got one for less than 300 off ebay used, put two new bearings on the outsides, and it lasted forever. I finally exploded the PTO bearing after 4 years of abuse and use...on a used crank to begin with. I've had two friends with billet twister cranks (10 mils) break off the flywheel end. Mopar1.... if you want a reliable, 100HP sled motor so badly in your bansheee, go put one in. You're talking about a motor that makes about 30 HP stock, trying to nearly quadruple that and keep it reliable all day long? Show me a motor, any motor, you quadruple and have it reliable all day long. Again, the builders and site sponsors didn't create the market, buyers did for these cheap cranks. If you "didn't have a choice" on what crank you bought...you're wrong as well. You always have a choice. Your choice is more education on what's out there and possibly another builder.

Unless you're in wet sand, get more tire for one. Put 16 up front and 44 out back, try that. People are leaving you out of the hole because you're blowing the tires off and by the time you shift second, you're dipping RPM and the tires are catching up... Leave in second, don't dump the clutch, ease it out...

So...what's the dispute again?

Crank dyno or track dyno?

stock second gear, I'm 260, Chris...the former owner (now sold) of my motor is 300ish. Launch 2nd gear all day long. You're not going to break a stock second on a 10 mil cub unless you're a retard. 6-7 years...thousands of passes, lots of hook from a couple chubby guys. 1st gear is useless unless you're doing pavement or putzing along in the pits. The stretch between 1st and second is VERY hard to gear accordingly for... Someone was making an aftermarket tranny with a tightened up 1-2...

This is my old motor...and I HATE to see it go, but Chris has it running better than I ever did. Good luck on the sale homie...at least this old mill won't fund any more steak dinners from.... (lol).

The problem with sleds are the delivery. The CVT and track suck up about 50% of their HP. Whereas a Banshee Trans/drive train take about 20. And then there's the weight. No one doubts a motor as big puts out the power. CC for CC, CVT vs a standard bike/ATV transmission, the Atv/bike motor wins every time. When you lose 50% of your crankshaft HP through delivery to the ground, you have to have that kind of CCs.

You are one of a very few Jbird. But the other side of the coin. If cost wasn't the issue for most, would there be a need/market for much cheaper cranks? Market dictates price....

I'm suing Wiseco. I leaned out my motor and it put a hole in the top. Must be a bad part...... Guys, cranks and cylinders (aftermarket and/or porting) are the most expensive part of the motor. When you go cheaper, you get cheaper... Figure it out.