ScrewMachine

OK, I gotta sell this machine. Who wants it? I'm open to pretty much any reasonable offer. I gotta get it out of my garage to make room for some new projects. Email me dj@lovelandscrew.com

Gas. Oh, wait. That's me after too much mexican food. lol Gasoline.... not picking on ya, just being a smart ass.

For some reason this board isn't allowing me to edit my posts. Price should read $6,500 not 5,500. I don't know how that slipped past me. :shoothead: I apologize for any inconvenience. Oh, and thx for the free bumps.

Not really sure what you're looking for in terms of price. Maybe I'm a dipshit. I'm not going to drive to where ever you are, if that's what you're asking. But I'm sure there are some delivery companies out there that could help ya out. Check into it yourself.

Sure I'll ship, if you pay.

Yeah!! The plastic fu**ing rocks! Wonder where it came from? The guy that thunk it up was brilliant! Just wish I didn't have to sell it. :yucky:

Thanks mon. You gotta pretty nice ride there yourself.

:mad: Darn bills. Yamaha banshee for sale. A&S built 7mm stroked 68mm bore (443cc) utilizing new pistons, rods, crank, etc. Crank has been welded. Case has been match ported, with just a clean-up port on the cylinders. V-Force 3 reed cages, 40mm Mikuni carbs and CPI Big Bore pipes. This engine has less then 20 hours on it. Shift star was modded and the flywheel lightened. Adjustable timing plate, aftermarket clutch basket (don't remember the brand, I'm useless). There's other things, but just too much for me to remember it all right now. Dan rebuilt the entire engine for me and beefed-up what was needed. Frame is stock Yamaha, power coated a translucent dark red. A-arms are +2+1 Quicksand. +6 swinger is also a Quicksand. A set of dirt tires and the sand tires you see in the pics are included. The paddels are 9 flapper Taller-Haulers and a set of 10 flapper Haulers are included as well. Those of you who know me are aware that I had some trouble getting the motor tuned in after I got it back from A&S. I changed carbs from the stupid 35mm Keihns and went to the Mikunis. Bike runs like a raped ape now. I recently had the head off of her to check the carbon patch. It looks good and the cylinder walls look like new. To sell my baby pains me more than I can put into words. There may be some things that I'm missing, please PM me with any questions. $5500 obo.

Wait a minute...... looks like my bike. Well, ok maybe just the plastics. And credit for those go to John. So.... I'll shut up now. :biggrin:

Whatever... I'm not sure if that was directed at me, but if you're looking to start sh!t, leave me out of it, ok hotshot? I'm just thowing in my .02 of experience, trying to help the guy out. Geez....

In my experience, it is a fairly normal thing to hear that popping sound when riding in sand, under a lot of power, with the rear chain guard still in place. I've had three shees (and a number of friends that have them too) and every one of them has done this.... until the rear chain guard is removed. I don't want to speculate on what exactly is causing the popping sound, but it must have something to do with sand accumulating between the chain and the guard, because once it's removed the popping is gone. I've never witnessed any extreme damage come from this, but if it bothers you just take off the guard.

Look at the carbon patch on top of the piston...it reaches all the way to the edge on both. Tells me that both sides were running too lean. Don't take this as argumentative, but with that kind of damage to the piston, I'm having a really hard time believing that the cylinders aren't fuct. Weisco is probably the best bet for piston replacement. Check around with some local shops and have the cylinders inspected. The head doesn't look THAT bad, buy if ya need a cheap replacement head lemme know, I think I've got one laying around the garage here somewhere. Or, go with a cool head if ya got the dough. When ya get it back together, check your jetting and check for air leaks. Don't want to fry it again....

I've seen quite a few of these problems solved with some good maintenance on the cable. Had a single 34, dual 35s, and now dual 40s. Fuct with old cables and had the same problems. Maintained and/or upgraded to a new cable and problems went away.

I think what I got out of your story is that one of the carb tops came loose and dirt got inside, causing the throttle to stick? If so, that side of the engine was running lean when the carb top came loose. What happened next is not good. Check the compression on both sides and post back with the results. Right side may be burned up. Hope I'm wrong...........

Could be the crank seal. That would explain the leak...pressurizing the case and forcing oil out the vents....and why it's running hot... lean air/fuel mixture. You said there was no oil coming out of the pipe, which is a bit odd if this is the case, but I've seen stranger things. If you've already checked that, I'm at a loss. Don't think it's the water pump seal though, oil would be milky if that's leaking.