ssanddemon

Check out this thread from a few days ago, it's got most of what you are looking for. http://www.bansheehq.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=68599 The long and short of this is; weld it. Cranks can and have broken in completely unmodified engines. The accepted limit is porting, tho as stated, they can come apart at any time. Save your money on the Hot Rod crank, IMO. the stock one is a good unit and the welding is usually just $75 or so. Stock rods are decent as well until the power really gets jacked.

Shave the factory head, it's cheap. Mine doesn't overheat, ever. That gives a very noticeable bang for the buck. Shave the flywheel, also cheap; and while you have the 'wheel off, slot the stator mounting holes for a timing increase. Keep in mind that these mods are gonna make it pickier on fuel selection- mine doesn't ping on 92 octane even at 155 psi and 7* timing, but yours might end up needing half-and-half race gas and super to run right.- It will haul ass though. Mine gives a huge increase switching from super unlead to half-and-half. V-force reeds will help a hell of a lot, tho they aren't cheap like the other mods are. I have PT Mids and I like them a lot, but they really are for a motor that has been ported a bit. I don't think they are gonna give much on a stock motor. Toomey TR-6s of FMFs aqre gonna be more the ticket there. And as stated, a sprocket change (13 tooth) will help a lot, closing up the gaps between gears and shortening them a bit. Top speed goes from like 95 to 80 or so, still pretty fast.

My shee sucked a reed last year on the second rip up Dumont. All I had was the spare emergency bike, a 400EX belonging to my buddy's girlfriend. Lemme tell ya, it was LAME! Multiple tries to barely make it up the tall dunes even with a running start; my bike had been pulling gears all the way. My $.02 : go straight to a 13 tooth sprocket and gear down from there.

As far as why it blew up, we need lots more; spare no detail on jetting, altitude, temps and all the mods, etc. If you want to dig into the motor yourself, a Clymer book will guide you every step of the way- it's a really easy motor to tear down. I can almost do em blindfolded and I'm not a builder or anything. It's kinda nice to know you built it yourself. And last but not least, keep in mind that as frustrating as it is, it's nowhere near as bad as blowing up a badass car engine, which I have done- almost $10k up in smoke about 3 seconds into a run.

I bought a Polaris RMK 700 last year. Primo shape, low miles (1200). Does 120 MPH, climbs anything, and was $3k. Makes track conversions seem dumb.

If your bike is running right with 310s it should blow away a 450 no contest. BUT: been hearing lots bad about WSM pistons and WHY THE F... would someone bore stock cyls 40 over? -Just took several lifetimes off em. Otherwise sounds like a decent ride if the maint. has been kept up.

Only 2 wires go to the switch. Connector them up and you're set. I did mine on the switch side of the plug so I can unplug the end and take it with me like a key for camp security.

We're tryin to help you, nimrod! Are you talking about the electrical plug?

The basic rule is: port it, weld it. Bolt-ons won't usually make enough power to kill a crank although I'm sure it's happened. Keep in mind that warranty is only as good as the company behind it. Many insurers will fight to keep from paying warranty claims and will demand service records and etc. Is the factory giving warranty, or is it a shyster dealership?

Probably not. There is no adjustment for the lever, it just pushes against the master cylinder pushrod from a raised section at the back of the lever. This issue can only be caused by a mismatch of parts, like the lever not machined just right or the reservoir feed hole a bit too far forward in the master itself. Something to try: remove the lever and grind back the area that pushes against the pushrod. I bet when the lever comes off, you will find that it has been holding the pushrod back quite a bit from the fully released position. If you had the brakes binding at the time, they would instantly release when the lever comes off. Get a bit of clearance here, and I bet it will then bleed out pretty easy and work OK.

Little more info would be nice. So you got rid of TORS to go to a twist, now you are trying to hook all the TORS shit back up to make your new TORS- type cable work? This is kind of a confusing one because the bike shouldn't rev no matter what unless the slides are stuck (or installed backward) or if the bike is sucking air or out of gas (super lean).

The lever is not letting the pushrod (in the master) back all the way. The cylinder cup is not allowing fluid to return to the master reservioir because of this, so fluid which is now trapped in the lines will expand with heat, causing the brakes to apply. Seen it a bunch on cars where a guy installs a new brake master and gets the adjustment wrong, this is a textbook symptom.

I rode my buddies 700 raptor a couple of months ago, what a joke. Mild 450's were smoking that bike easily, it was a real bummer to race on. It was nice and easy to wheelie, tho. Just felt like it was dragging a sand anchor in the drags and hillclimbs. What a relief to jump back on the shee after that thing, I felt like a real puss on it.

You get no benefit from spacers. They are used to clear the clutch arm on bigger carburetors and to pry money from newbie banshee riders. but to answer your question, they go in between the reed and jug.

I used Honda HP-2 for a while but got tired of spending the $$$; changing oil after every few rides it added up fast. Started using JD-20 tractor oil since I get it for free, works great. Seems like every guy here runs something different in the trans, from 80 wt. to ATF. It all works, but the key is to change very often if the bike is running in the dunes due to clutch fiber contamination. If I were running in the woods, the Honda stuff would high on my list of good oils and I would change it every 20 rides or so. P.S. The book sez 1.5 qts. but most guys run 2 qts to better lubricate the clutch rod and ball.