NitroTate

If this is still available I'll take it. Just let me know. I'll PM you also.

Agreed, good seller, parts showed up as described.

Yes I still have it. Looks like about $28-30 to ship there.

Bumper: Sold Shocks: Sold Nerfs: Sold

Stock Grab Bars: $20. each + the ride. The blue one has LED tail light, I think it still works but haven't tested it, it's yours free. Stock Crank w/bearings good condition: $80. + the ride Let me know if you have any questions.

Stock Bumper Barely used: $20. + the ride. TORS and cables: $20. + the ride. Rear Hubs: $40. + the ride Toomey Foam filter Never Used or oiled: $20. + the ride Stock Front shocks good condition no leaks: $45. + the ride Stock Nerfs: $50. As is or $100. Powder coated your choice of color.

To me so far it sounds like a fuel/air issue. I'm not sure if you've actually taken the carbs apart and cleaned them or not but you should for sure just to make sure nothings jacked up or dirt stuck somewhere etc. Make sure to pull the main jets, pilot jets, float needle all out and blow them out with air and/or carb cleaner. (you could have a little piece of sand stuck in a jet causing it to run weird or not at all without spraying fuel in manually). I would also check the following things after you have the carbs clean and back together: Clean air filter with nothing blocking the airways (dead mice, rags, etc.) Carb slides need to be in correctly (left and right sides) make sure the “cutout” at the bottom of the slide is to the rear of the bike and the other smaller cutout is facing the idle adjustment screws you put in when you eliminated TORS. Make sure the slides move freely and “clack” nice and clean at the bottom when you sharply release the throttle Sync the carbs Make sure the choke tube is on connecting the two carbs Make sure the crossover tube in installed Make sure all connecting boots from filters to carbs and carbs to intake are all tight and not leaking especially the ones after the carbs toward the motor. (An air leak on the motor side can cause lean conditions and make the bike run crazy.) If you do all of this and it still acts up as you described then you’ll have to move on to the frustrating task of chasing electrical gremlins…

You could have a few other things going on but did you say "38 psi" meaning you tested the engine compression?? These bikes normally need upwards of a minimum of 90 psi in order to run. In some odd cases they'll run with less but not very efficiently. If you are truly at only 38 psi (using a good compression testing tool and testing correctly) then that's your first problem and it might require a top end job unless there is some kind of leak or you have a crappy tester. If you are testing compression make sure you are holding the throttle wide open and kick the hell out of the kickstart until the needle stops moving. (about 10-20 kicks usually does it).

Sending PM if they are still available.

Yeah hows it going man? I do still powder coat from time to time just been getting real busy at work. Traveling to Germany and India about every 3 months to visit my employees. Also working on my masters degree and the wife and I had another baby too... so yeah been pretty booked up! I did make it to St Anthony's a couple weeks ago but blew up my wife's banshee and my daughters blaster and mine quit from an electrical issue so now I have 3 bikes to fix! How have you been?