01CandyBlue

When we put on my cpi's my buddy did it while i was doing something else and he seemed to remeber there was a sealing groove on the collector where it mounts to the jug, i know he didnt put a o-ring in there because nothing came with the pipes and now when i run my bike it smokes from the jug to pipe area and i get oil blown on my feet, also the connection between the front and rear pipe does the same thing, do i just need to tear them back of and get seals for them or were they not included for a reason and you dont run them?

I have run both on my motor and the trinitys definitely pulled harder, but they did not fit, i have trinitys head and it has a nice abrasion on the left side where the pipe constantly would hit up against it even after we used a "precision" hammer to massage the pipe around the head (an indentation about 2x4 and a 1/2 inch deep), i called trinity and they said my frame was bent so i sold the pipes for 200 bucks and put on cpi's, they fit great and the bike runs better, which is really too bad because i liked how the trinitys looked and how they nice they sealed (am having seal issues with my cpi's) and i also really liked their silencers, my buddy that has the trinitys pipes now had t5's before and he claims they pull harder also

OK I started with the 160 main, the needles that came in it and the 55 pilots and it wouldnt even start, I dropped to a 140 main with the 52 pilot since that was the leanest i had and left the needle alone, it then ran but was slightly lean, i eventually worked it to a 150 main with that 52 pilot and it runs awesome but i think the bottome end is rich, the 52 pilot on a 150 main seems really rich and the needle im not even sure if i should change, anyone have a suggestion as to what pilot is should start with next and then figure out my needle?

My kit just came and it has 160 and 165 mains and 52 and 58 pilot jets, im not sure what is in the carbs themselves

yup im in utah and my elevation is around 4900, my kit should be here today and i need it dailed in for next weekend, im not sure if the kit comes with a needle assortment, it supposedly does, but 162 and 130-140 is a big difference in a starting point, are the keihins opposite the mikunis in the richer or leaner for the needles? is a 140 leaner then a 162?

I just got trinitys dual 35 pwk kit and was wondering for a 4900 elevation where i might want to start my jets at, my mods are a fairly aggressively ported drag motor, .50 over, trinity head and pipes, plus 5 timing, vforce 3's, advanced timing etc, I have been doing alot of reading on these carbs but am on a completely fresh motor and dont want any mistakes, thanks for any opinions

To throw out one more pice of info i just scored a two to one intake, of course id dont want the two to one, but it did come with a pwk air stryker but not sure if its 34 or 35 mm, would that be too big if i just bought one more?

No filters are definitely additional

I decided to have the local guru around here do some work to my engine and he suggested mikuni 34mm for it when its done, I was under the impression the the pwk's gave you more power and were the norm for a swap, he wants 295 for 34mm mikuni's and 85 for intake boots, does this sound high? it seems like i can find them cheaper, my bike has port and polish, weisco's, advance timing, lightened flywheel, v-force 3, cpi's, 18cc domes and i am wondering what would be the carb to run if I swapped them out

Wow for a company's representative I am amazed at your response, You didnt respond, I know this because I dont have a response, Im not bitching and moaning, I am posting a response to a question about a product at the request of another member, As for pm'ing you again, I figured only an asshole would not respond to a pm about their product, judging by your response I assumed correctly, and as for you company replacing your crap fitting pipes on my perfectly straight quad, I installed CPI's monday (which fit perfectly) and have been at my local sand dunes since then, my bike now kicks from this single change, I will never by another product from trinity and will only laugh at your responses defending your products in the future, oh and if anyone wants a set of trinity pipes, they are on ebay, any offer, just want the piles gone

I have their stage 4 pipes and head, the head is great, easier to install then my buds cool head and nicer hardware, the pipes however are a big pain in my ass, they dont fit worth crap and the 700 dollars that they set me back would have been much better spent on rockets or cpi's, i went from t-5's to the trinitys and lost power, they rub like a bitch on the left side of the head and the on the inside of the frame on the left side, the right side i rebent to get to clear my frame and to make the silencers look even coming out the back of the bike, i bought them in a weird deal when a friend wanted my used t-5's and they were avaialbe with a matched head at the same time, i was new and did not now what i do now, but i loved the look of their silencers so i bought them, if i did it again i would have never bought them, they will be on ebay soon, as for my problems, i pm'd rocketpig and trinity with my gripes and received no replies what-so-ever, i will never buy from them again

I am putting together my banshee on a moderate budget and dont want to go to extreme with it, I have the usual, Head,Portand Polish, Pipes, V-force 3's, Flywheel Lightened, Wisecos, and other small things, im wondering if boring the stock carbs would give me much more, im thinking thats where im being restricted and I have the equipment to bore them, my question is, if i bore them to 29 mm what happens at idle with the slides, whereas they are only 27mm there will be air bypass on the sides of them, do you just compensate with the idle and this is a worthwhile mod? I mean eventually i would like to buy carbs but with my college student budget it will be some time thanks

Okay, I have been reading alot about stroker motors and am looking at pursuing that setup and have some very specific questions, first with the dome sizing/clearance/compression issues there are the ideas of cutting the domes, spacing the jugs or the head, I think spacing the head may be out because of my aftermarket head (trinity) and I read a post from Jim at passion where he mentioned that if you space the jugs the transfers are put to better use, I understand this concept but maybe not the whole concept of the stroker, if you have a longer stroke and then space the jugs up that wouldnt that raise your ports and seems to me it would defeat the purpose of the stroker? But does increasing your rod length give you more ability to open the heights and bottoms of the ports to develop more power? Where does the torque gains of the stroker setup come from? The fact that your stroke is increased or the fact that your ports can be modified so much more sizing it develops more power, also what would be more beneficial, a 4mm stroke or a seven, does it require case mods to fit a seven and is it even worth it? One mor what carbs would i go to? thanks in advance for any replies, sorry for the rambling just so many questions...

My dad factory rode Polaris snowmobiles for 10 years and di all his own motor work usually beating the other factory riders, we raced karts for 3 years and took state championships twice using motors he built, he knows what hes doing

Whoa buddy, I already bought the bars but the secret to my sucess is my new renthal GRIPS combined with that ez pull clutch lever, u have no idea the performance gain, im shaking thinking about it, denny is faster as long as there is a straight flywheel on his bike, we could pull him to the top...

OK, I am at 13 and 41, the gearing feels ok, i had stock on there at 14 and 45, I changed to renthal sprockets and a did x ring, we have the same tire, the short haulers with 8 scoops, his are broken up badly though, my bike feels like it gets traction, i want haulers with ten scoops on ten inch wheel, i think it looks better, i have razor fronts and he has dirt tires, I am in utah and on sand mountian pulling in like third gear half throttle i can still pull my front end up, i think it hooks up ok...

Hello all, I have been a fairly avid reader while building my first banshee, I bought a 2001 about a month ago, tore it down a few weeks ago and did some mods, Port and Polish, Trinity stage 4 head with 17 domes, trinity pipes, trinity timing plate at +5, welded crank, and the shift star mod, my buddy bought one that has a timing plate, port and polish, weicos, possibly lightened flywheel, milled head and a dirtdigger, and a 1/2 reed spacer and he is much faster, I run better gas and have new plugs compared to his that he has not even changed, my jets are right and i am maybe 50 pounds heavier then him, we are all very competitive and i am wondering what would further help me, I am getting v-force 2's and my flywheel lightened, but what else would help? Wait... maybe this would also help, my power band is smooth, my port and polish was done by my father and is perfect, the exhaust slightly wider and mirror smooth, the intake i was changed mildly and bead blasted for texture and the transfer ports were cleaned up, mine is +2 rear length and very predicatable to ride while his power band sneaks up on you, you will hit the gas and it will move and then suddenly pick the front end up and u have to hold, i dont think it is to fun to ride like that but would maybe suiggest much bigger port work?