canyncarvr

Yes. I understand the geometry aspects of less positive wheel offsets (wider stance) as it pertains to suspension input, toe-change, tire scrub, bearing load, and all. But I don't understand that as an answer to a wheel choice question, at least not my question. The point is not to go wider, particularly, it is to choose the better wheel for the application (sand): A 3x2 (more narrow) or a 2x3 (more wide). Maybe there are Banshee dune riders that have run both and have a preference?

I have always had 2+3 front wheels for sand use. Looking into getting new wheels 'cuz my old ones just won't hold air any longer..been whacked one too many times. I've heard that while a wider track in the sand (the 2+3) used to be popular, the preferred choice has pretty much changed to a 3+2 wheel (narrower stance). IS there a general consensus on front wheel backspace choice? A narrower front stance doesn't make a lot of sense to me..but as long as I'm buying wheels, maybe I should change. Thanks!

Notwithstanding the questionable tool..where did the idea come from to do a compression test on a cold engine?

For a basket to cause slipping problems it would have to be hammered pretty bad..hanging up the friction plates from returning to a compressed pack. Roll it backwards, hit the brakes..that would knock them loose. Until you used the clutch next time. What transmission oil do you use? Nothing 'SJ', right? And/or..nothing noted as 'energy conserving'? When you replaced the plates..you soaked them in the correct oil before install?

You don't have a starting problem now? It was resolved...right? '..and still nothing.' That means the jet change didn't effect the sputtering problem, or you're BACK to literally nothing. It won't start. Did you have the flywheel off?

I found a pic of a Banshee case...put 'goo' on it everywhere I see it should go from the pic point of view. Seeing as it's RED..maybe it should be loctite's anaerobic sealant.. Obviously someone that's done a couple dozen of these is the person you should listen to! It occurred to me that part of your question may come from wondering if it just goes on the 'outside' perimeter of the case. No. The crankcase (the flange all the way around the crank MUST be sealed). Uh oh...I missed a spot..around the bolt in the lower left corner of the pic...........

I've not had a Banshee apart...(or any of my R5s/RDs either). On motorcycles, it goes on every surface of the case that mates with a corresponding surface on the other case. It should be easy to see where the two halves of the case come together. That's where it goes.

Re: ' it has never run quite right..' That was with those nipples open? IF so, no wonder. I looked up the PWK28 on Sudco. The angle of the diagram doesn't show that nipple..and doesn't call out a PN for it. So, no help there. Considering where it is (downstream), that it sucks air, it being an injector hookup makes sense. Look inside the throat and I'll bet you will find a hole in the carb directly under the brass connector. ..like the Banshee's predecessor..the R5/RDs both having an oil tank and pump. They had Mikunis with an oil port in exactly the same spot (not physically, but effectively). That port serves no purpose in a pre-mixed Banshee (not including those with RZ motors in 'em..which probably don't have the oil pump on 'em anymore anyway), but certainly must be blocked off to prevent FOD..and a considerable too-lean problem. IF this machine was run for any length of time with those ports open, chances are as close to zero as they can get that there is no resultant damage. As far as this particular problem (no start),this 'compression, spark and fuel' is correct. Certainly there are variations within each that matter (like the TIMING of that spark for example), but your problem is one of the three. If you will be running your machine for '..2-3 minutes' while it sits, I hope you at least have a fan in front of it. Having NO idea what the current jetting setup is....with non-native carbs...it's a pretty much a crap shoot. Make sure the plugs aren't wet from trying to start it. If they are new..dry them with compressed air. With the petcock 'on' TIP the machine to BOTH sides until fuel flows out the overflow hose(s) of the carbs. If the machine is cold, kick it a few times with the chokeS ON (you have two..with no choke interconnect like the OEM Mikunis) AND key off (or kill 'on' if you don't have a switch), then kick it with key-on and/or kill off. The 'tipping' idea is a years old trick. For a number of reasons the floats may not be doing their job (contaminated float needle/seat for one, so they're 'stuck'). You KNOW there is fuel in the carb bowls when you see fuel coming out the overflows. Good luck.

Re: 'Can anyone technically explain to me as to why this is?' This is quite an old post..but a straightforward question that for whatever reason wasn't answered. The comment was made, '..not like four strokes...' Yep. Pretty much backwards timing-wise. The reason a two-stroke 'likes' retarded timing for upper-band RPM operation is due to the expansion chamber effect. A pipe on a 2-stroke performs two essential functions to 2-stroke performance. A 2-stroke pipe is composed of two cones, the first divergent, the next convergent. The pipe 'pulls' the incoming charge through the motor. That's the scavenging part. That's what the divergent cone accomplishes. The convergent cone acts..as you could guess...in an opposite fashion. It PUSHES the charge back into the cylinder before the piston closes the exhaust port. That's the supercharging effect. The design of a particular expansion chamber..the size and length of the headpipe, the diameter and length of the cones (the bell part of an expansion chamber) all fit together to make a 2-stroke perform as is desired and WHERE (RPM-wise) it's desired. The expansion chamber tunes the pressure waves coming from the cyclic nature of the 2-stroke engine operation (opening/closing of the ports). Retarding the timing on a 2-stroke motor transfers heat to the pipe..and it's that heat that tends to improve the scavenging/supercharging effect in the upper-RPM ranges. Thats's why you see ignition timing being quite severely retarded as a general rule in most 2-stroke ignition controls. And that is why 'this is'. Cheers!

re: 'they are supposed to be exactly the same.. ' And...when they are not? Thanks for the humor! :laugh: From this we learn that this Banshee does NOT have a seized piston. Just look at the piston on the right in your pics. IT'S not seized, they are supposed to be exactly the same, so by the above fine example of erudition, we KNOW the other one is not seized either! That's stoopid, isn't it. And it makes as much sense as 'Jet them both the same all the time because they are both the same all the time.' Think outside the tiny little box. Because 'I always..' 'I never...' 'I haven't....' or 'I won't...' is no reason to NOT consider the very real possibility that there may exist fact outside of what you know. ..and the Banshee doesn't even have a rotary valve! Imagine! Lectrons are obviously junk, it being said, 'I have never used a tapered bore carb...' makes that pretty obvious. FWIW (nada), my carbs are taper-bored..and they even have the same jets in 'em, right and left! :shrug:

There was a whitepaper published by McCullough some time back regarding oil/fuel ratios. They tested fuels mixed 'oil-rich' to the point of plug failure and found that the more oil they used, the more power they got. That was due to the better sealing properties (piston-cylinder) of the higher volumes of oil used. But...balance in all things will likely be a wise choice. Running 16:1 oil/fuel mix is unrealistic for a number of reasons. The higher oil recommendations from manufacturers is generally considered to be a safety valve for them. There are not likely to be oil related failures when you use SO much of it. But, like most everything else made there is room for improvement...especially when the focus of use is narrowed to include a particular type of riding in a particular environment. A 'good' premix oil runs probably around...what...$40 a gallon? There's a good reason to run less of it!

re: '..possibility of the Boost bottle seals being to blame.' Anything leaking (including the balance tube and/or bottle hardware) can lead to a seizure. Yes, the type, angle, of the petcock, and routing of hoses matters. Generally speaking, the petcock being on the LH side, the LH carb hose route is shorter than the RH carb hose route. That gives you more fuel 'storage' in the RH setup. You can turn the fuel off and see which cylinder runs out first. (Not a recommendation btw..) Obviously a completely different carb setup would be..well..completely different. It is not uncommon to have different jetting requirements for the two cylinders even with everything else (boots/reeds/bottles etc) OK. Good luck!

Make sure the crossover tube (cold enrichment) is in good shape AND properly fit. One that is not will destroy the RH piston. **edit** That comment intended for VM26ers, no application to Keihin. I glossed over the PJ part. If the petcock is restricting fuel flow the first piston most likely to feel it is the left piston, not the right.

All other things being OK (float condition, float level, no mechanical obstruction etc.) a leaking float needle valve/seat can be resolved by burnishing the seat. A machine that has sat with untreated fuel in it for too long is an excellent candidate. Cut a thin strip of wet-n-dry sandpaper (the black stuff ) to cover the end of a cotton swab. Start with 280. Cut the strip long enough to hold with your fingers...say 3" or so. Wet with alcohol, insert into the carb (not necessary to remove the seat) and clean the seat with a twisting motion. Follow with a strip of 400. Remove any residue as needed. BraKleen works well. If the needle itself shows any damage at the tip..dents, impression...or is hardened by age (in the case of a viton type tip), replace it.

OK. I did. The funny part of that is I understand: 1. The meaning of the phrase, AND 2. How it does not apply in this case. You presented an argument (more complaint, really) that was wrong, unfounded, incorrect, in error, and misguided. I corrected the error with fact. That you do not understand is a perfect example of something not understood to be therefore considered by the one lacking understanding to be bogus. You are welcome to take issue with the facts of the matter. ....makes your point of view no less wrong. You're welcome to it, though!