fastbanshee8

Couldn't have said it better myself. I've had excellent luck with getting parts fast and at a real decent price, from Jeff at Fast Racing. If you need anything, call Jeff. His customer service is excellent.

I just bought a +4mm stroker +5mm long rod crank, and I'm going to use the 795 series Wiseco's. From what I've been told, this set-up is great. It increases HP, depending on other mods, as to how much you will get, and the long rods help with longevity. I've only run Wiseco's in my Shee, so I don't know about the Vito's, but then again, I've read quite a bit about them, and everyone says they don't last like the Wiseco's. If you don't use the long rod pistons, then you will have to use a spacer plate, under the cylinders, and I've been told that with the spacer plate, you don't get as much HP. I would recommend the long rod crank with the 795 series pistons, for the best HP gain.

I've heard both sides of this story, long rod vs. short rod, but the long rod will make the engine more reliable. It will decrease the rod angle, making the crank and rods last longer. If you use Wiseco 795 series pistons, you will get another benefit, and that is, the wrist pins are higher on the pistons, which makes them better balanced, so they don't tend to rock in the cylinders as much. My .02 is, get the long rods for reliability, and they will also increase the torque of the engine.

It will run just fine, with the TORS unplugged. The reason for the kit, is to get all of the excess crap, like the huge carb tops, out of the way. This will make carb adjustments, and cleanings a helluva lot easier, in the future. The kit is well worth the money and time to install it.

1.5-2.0 turns out, but make sure both are adjusted the same. You will just have to adjust them and ride it, to see if it's adjusted right.

I had a similar problem, and ended up flipping my shee, and totaling the frame and breaking my right collar bone. It sucked. What I found was, the top seal, in the front left caliper, was torn loose about half way around, and got up between the piston and the caliper, causing the piston to bind and not move back at all. With each additional brake lever pull, it pushed the pads closer to the rotor, until it got to the point, that they were riding against the rotor all the time. Used the brakes one more time, and just barely touched the brake lever, and bam flipped it. I would take the calipers apart, and rebuild them if necessary. While you're at it, change the brake fluid. Just my .02.

The reed cages don't come with a intake boot, and yes, you will have to modify the intake boots, to make them work. Be sure and put a reed cage gasket between the intake boot, and the reed cage.

Did he replace the crank seals, when he replaced the crank?

I'm running a 14/40 in the sand, and it pulls my 10 paddle haulers just fine, but I've got quite a few mods also.

Just remember, when you widen the front end, you are going to get more bump steer, so you might want to get a steering stabilizer. Just my .02.

It's there to kill the engine, in case on of the carb slides stick, and doesn't close like it's supposed to, when you let off the throttle.

Use flat washers. With nylocks, you won't need the lock washers.

Don't click on any links, in an email, when they say they are from Ebay or PayPal. If you're unsure if the email is legit, then signin to Ebay or PayPal, and check. i got tired of getting these "phishing" emails, so I started forwarding them to spoof@ebay.com, or spoof@paypal.com. If you send the email to Ebay or Paypal, then will go after these jacka$$es, and shut them down. You should probably change your passwords for Ebay and PayPal, before someone empties your funds out, or sells something on Ebay, under your account.

When I had a similar set-up on my Shee, I was running a 290 main.

I put a set of the Kenda Klaws on the front of my Shee, and they work great. For the price, you can't beat them, IMHO. Dirt tires usually don't work real good in the sand, because they are designed to dig in. A front sand tire, on the other hand, floats on top of the sand.

The second screw is the air mixture screw. Turn it in (clockwise), to richen up the mixture, and turn it out (counter-clockwise), to lean out the mixture. This is for your pilot, or idle jet, but it affects your mid-range and top end also. The first screw is your idle adjustment, and yes both carbs should have one. If you adjust one screw on one carb, you need to make sure the same screw on the other carb is set the same.

I run the MSD ignition, and I don't have any problems with the battery not lasting, but I got the charging circuit, that plugs in between the stator and the voltage regulator. It keeps the battery charged, as long as the RPM,s are above 3500. I also bought a charger, that you can plug into a 110 outlet, at Radio Shack. It's a great set-up, the MSD, because you can set everything by dip-switches, on the back of the box. It does take a while to install, compared to the others, because it doesn't just plug in to the stock wiring harness, and it comes with its own coil. You have to change out a lot of parts to put it on, but once you're done, it's great.

From what I've read, and been told, AV gas isn't made for a high RPM engine. I've talked to several people that have ran it, and they said their Banshee's wouldn't rev out, while running AV gas, so they weren't going to run it anymore. Just what I've read, and been told, so you may want to take it with a grain of salt. IMHO, I wouldn't run it in my Shee, and wouldn't recommend that anyone else run it either.

sent pm about a-arms. Fastbanshee8

locogato11283 PM sent. I want them.

Mine did that once, and it was because the counter shaft seal was leaking and allowed some dirt to get into the tranny. Had to split the cases. Everything was fine, but dirty. Just cleaned it out and replaced the seal. Fastbanshee8

Thanks for the input. I found a set.

This may have been asked before, but I'm looking for a complete set of aftermarket a-arms for my Banshee. I don't want to go wider with the arms, maybe +1 forward would be okay. I would like to keep the cost around $400-$500. for the set. I have a set of Works shocks on the front, and I would like to use them on the new a arms. The shocks are set up for the stock arms, and were a big investment. I may be asking for the impossible, but who knows??? If anybody knows where to get a set, or has a set for sale, then please let me know. Thanks, Fastbanshee8

It will probably be another month, because I'm rebuilding the motor, from the crank up. I'm going with a +4mm stroker +5mm longrod crank, that is trued and welded, plus .060 over 795 Wiseco pistons. A few other things will be added also, Rocket In-frames, bigger radiator, Wiseco clutch basket, new clutch, and a +4 swingarm. I'll keep you posted. Thanks

I have an aftermarket perch and lever, but with my current clutch, the increased lever pull, causes some serious arm pump, on a long ride. I put all 6 of the heavier springs in my clutch, to keep it from slipping as much. I have replaced numerous clutch cables, since installing this clutch, and it's starting to be a pain. I was just looking for a way to get rid of the clutch cable and decrease the lever pull. So far, it's pretty even as far as the pros and cons, on the hydraulic clutch. I'm going to go ahead and get one. Thanks for the input.