fastbanshee8

I had the same problem, and it ended up being a short in the wiring. One of the wires insulation had been rubbed through, where it contacted the frame. Would work sometimes, and then I would be riding at night with the lights, and bam, no lights for 10-30 seconds. It really sucked. I found it and taped it up, then re-routed the wire.

Gearsaver.

I'll take two of the black powerbands, plus a left handed screwdriver, and a bucket of prop wash. I almost forgot, I also need blinker fluid, muffler bearings, and a kniflin pin.

I run the MSD ignition, and it's great. If you decide to run it, just be sure and get the wiring harness for the inline charger, so that it charges the battery while the motor is above 3500 RPM. I don't have any problems with the battery going dead, unless I leave it plugged in to the CDI box. With the MSD, nothing is programmed into it. You can adjust everything, with the switches on the back of the CDI. It does take a while to install, because it has it's own harness. The OEM harness won't work. Other than being more difficult to install, I wouldn't run anything else.

When I replaced my float needles and seats, I couldn't see anything wrong with them either, until I put them under a magnifying glass. A little roughness or pitting is all it takes, to make them leak. Do you have an in-line filter between the tank and carbs? If not, I would highly recommend it. It will make a huge difference, on crap getting into the carbs.

I had the same problem several years ago, and it ended up being the float needle and seat. I replaced both of them and problem solved. It doesn't take much to foul up the needle or seat.

Don't know about the PC's, but years ago, when I got my FMF's, they sent a set of 260 mains. I'd try 260's or 270's as a starting point, just as long as everything else is stock.

A friend of mine got caught out on the dunes with a beer. Real bad news. Don't even risk it. He had to take a day off of work, to go back down for court, and found out that he could have had to spend a week in jail, plus pay a fine of $1500.00. He got lucky, and only had to pay $500.00, but it was still a kick in the ass. He also found out, that he could have been banned from the dunes, for taking alcohol out on them. If you take alcohol out on the dunes and get caught, don't start whining, because you've been warned.

I just checked my Clymer's manuel, and the specs are as follows; Lighting coil resistence Yellow-to-Black 0.26-0.38 ohms Pickup coil resistence White/Red-to- White/Green 94-140 ohms Charging coil resistence Green-to-Red 13.7-20.5 ohms Do not test when the engine is hot.

If you want a pipe that you can drag race with, and still ride the trails, then go with the CPI's or the T'5's. My .02, go with the CPI's.

If there is just a little gas in the tank, it won't get picked up, unless you are on reserve. Sounds like you weren't getting enough gas, leaned it out, and locked it up. Pull the head and look at the pistons, then let us know what they look like. Pictures would help.

When I've had problems with cold starts, the pilot jets have either been plugged, or too lean. Air mixture screws may need to be adjusted in also. If it's a carb issue, then I think you are too lean. If it's been setting for awhile, you might have some varnish in your carbs, that's plugging something up. Clean the carbs and adjust them, and eliminate the fuel issue, before tearing into something else. It's a fairly quick and cheap fix, plus it's not very hard.

34mm or 35mm carbs with K&N pod filters.

Contact Fast Racing, Jeff has really good prices, and he ships fast too.

Mine will do it once in a while, but if I put a jack stand under it, so that the rear wheels are off the ground, it's running, in gear with the clutch pulled in, the rear wheels will spin, although slowly. Did you soak your clutch plates in oil, before installing them? You will also have to break in the clutch, before it performs 100%, like it should. It's kinda like putting new brake pads on, everything needs to "wear in", to work right.

I adjust mine, so that I can slip a nickel between the lever and the perch. You need a little bit of slack in the cable, or your clutch will never fully engage.

My Fatty's responded real well to the porting, but the porting was done to compliment the pipes, not work against them. Whoever does the port work, either needs to know what pipes you have, or recommend the pipes to run, for things to work good.

I have never run Toomey pipes, but I have a set of Fatty's on my Shee, right now. The Fatty's work real well on a stock bike, and they perform a lot better with porting. Just my .02.

Did you adjust the cable, so that you have free play at the lever? If not, that should solve your problem.

To answer your question; Yes, you can use your stock intake manifolds with 28MM carbs. I did it for 5 or 6 years, with no problems.

64.7 HP

Could be a bad spark plug boot also. Electrical problems seem to get worse, as the affected part gets hotter.

V-Force reeds and cages, either 2's or 3's.

If you're having problems with the V-Force 2's, then get some locktite, and put on the nuts that hold the cages together. I haven't had any trouble with mine, since doing this. Just don't use the permanent stuff.

Instead of buying new carbs, you could just fix the screwed up one. Get some magnum steel epoxy, and fill the hole. Let it dry, drill it back out, and re-tap it. It's a cheap fix, and can get you by, until you decide to go with bigger carbs. There are a lot of different epoxy's out there, that will work, but you need to be sure and get one that can be drilled, machined, etc.