fastbanshee8

39, and 40 the end of May.

The domes or head, will have to be cut 2mil. A 4mil stroker crank has the crank pin moved out 2mil. You get 2mil longer up stroke and 2mil longer down stroke, hence a 4mil crank.

Yep, you will have to get the 795 series Wiseco pistons, for the long rods, and have your stock head cut to accept the added stroke of the crank. If you are running a "Coolhead", then you will have to have stroker domes cut for it.

You will have to order the wrist pin bearings seperately, because they don't come with the Wiseco piston kits. Just a little FYI.

Take that POS snorkel off of the air box lid, and see if it runs any better.

I got one a few months ago, from Jeff. It takes all the guess work out of carb synching, and it doesn't take much time either. Great product.

You can blame the F-in tree huggin' enviromentalists, for the gas prices being as high as they are. With all their rules and regs, it costs the oil companies major bucks to refine the crude, without breaking any of the rules. None of the oil companies will build any new refineries, because all the new rules make building, cost prohibitive. Bottom line, we don't have enough refineries to keep up with demand. I have a family member, that works for British Petroleum, and he is rather high up in the company. He told us about all this shit!

Drop the clip on the needle down to the fourth notch from the blunt end, if it isn't already there. If you still have the stock pilot, you might want to get a 27.5 or even a 30. FMF's tend to want more fuel down low, and in the mid-range, or mine did, but I also had Fatties.

Help me find the keys, and we will drive out!!!

Pro Design and a few other companies make a plate that bolts to the front of the air box, using a K&N filter. The Pro Design is kind of pricey, but it's cheaper than a new top end. I used to have a very similar set up on my Shee, that you have, and I was using a 320 main with the K&N. My elevation is 1550, what is yours? It will affect your jetting.

Several companies make a bracket, that bolts to the frame, where the back of the air box was. The coolant bottle mounts to it, just like it did on the back of the air box.

Before you try to remove the broken bolts with the E-Z Out, you might want to spray some "Panther Piss", WD-40, Liquid Wrench, etc, on the bolts. Might make things a little easier.

You will need to get some E-Z Outs and some drill bits. We have a set of E-Z Outs at work. The one we have has three different sizes in it, and each one will remove several different bolt sizes. You will need to center punch the bolts and drill them out, big enough to start the E-Z Out, then put a wrench on the end of the E-Z Out, and turn it counter clock-wise to remove the broken bolt. Tools needed; Center punch E-Z Out(s) Hammer Drill bits and drill Cresent wrench or box end, to fit the E-Z Out

Usually, and this is from past experiences, when it is hard to start, you are too lean on the pilot jet. Try turning the air mixture screws in, and/or putting in a 1 size larger pilot, and see if things improve.

Mine did that once, and it was the needles and seats above the floats, that went bad.

Could also be a bad float needle and seat. It sets above the float, and is what allows the gas into the carb.

You will get more carbon build up, from castor based oils. It's just the nature of the beast.

I've had my Shee since '96, and I will never get rid of it. 4pokes have their place, but they will never replace the screaming power band hit, of the Shee.

I've ran a tether kill switch for years, and I never had to remove the key switch or the thumb kill switch.

Left side a-arms are in the left of the pic, and the right side a-arms are in the right side of the pic.

Get some fiber glass insulation, like owens corning or some other brand. Take the paper backing off, and use it like regular packing. Brand and color aren't going to matter.

Mine were opposite, the right one pointed down, and the left one pointed up. There was an 1.5" difference from one side to the other. Looked like some "cock-eyed Jr." welded them up.

Here is the phone number for CPI; (801) 829-5877. Give them a call, and tell them about your problem. You may have to ride their asses, to get them to do something!!! They should issue a recall shipping ticket for you, but you will be without silencers for at least 2 weeks. They want the old ones back, to inspect, before they ship out the new ones. You can get silencers faster, if you want to pay CPI $120, which they should refund, once they get the screwed up ones back. I went through all of this crap, and it was a PITA, but I finally got a "decent" set of silencers.

With the 110mm rods, you just use the stock pistons. If your crank is welded, and you want the long rods, then you will need to sell it, but if it's not welded, then you can have a machine shop install the long rods on your crank. There are 2 types of Shee pistons, the stock style, and the 795 series, or long rod pistons, and once you get it bored to .080 over, you can use Blaster pistons.

How do you think it got to be such a problem??????? Maybe because everyone else, chose to ignore it!!!!!!