fastbanshee8

What size are your pilot jets, and did you take them out of the carbs to clean them?

I hope you realize that that MSD ignition takes a 7.2V battery to run it, and the price you want for it is the price they were new with the battery, and charging circuit included.

https://www.rockymountainatvmc.com/search?term=banshee+shock+bushing

How many turns open are your air mixture screws?

http://racetechelectric.com/c-279834-charging-system-stators.html

The yfz calipers work just fine with the stock Banshee master. I'm not disagreeing with anyone that the yfz master will make them work better. It's your money, spend it as you see fit.

No I don't. We were close to leaving for the dunes, and the money we had saved back for the trip after the purchase of the calipers was all we had left to get there on. I wasn't wanting to touch those funds until we left, so I did not buy the master cylinder. I thought this topic was about whether, or not the yfz master cylinder was required for the proper function of the yfz calipers? It's not needed, and then some royal douchebags decided that personal attacks were in order, because of a disagreement. Some of you are so damned childish, and immature.

Because some of us have families, house payments, and so on, and can't afford to pay for every upgrade available for our Shee. If you can't understand that, then you have a problem.

I did the yfz caliper swap on my Shee this last spring, and I did not use the YFZ master cylinder. It works just fine with the stock Shee master.

Clean that rust off of the nubs on the flywheel, use sandpaper, or a wire brush/wheel. Don't get crazy, but clean that up, and check the pickup coil also, because judging from the looks of the flywheel, you've had a lot of water in there.

http://www.acmeindustrial.com/keensert_comparison.html If you don't think you can put them in, take the cylinders to a machine shop. They can be saved, but it's going to cost some $, and time.

If the jets are clean, and it starts when you put gas in the spark plug holes, then you've got a fuel delivery issue. Do you have a vent tube on the gas cap going into the steering stem? If so, see if the stem is full of water, keeping the tube from drawing in air. Next empty the fuel tank, take the valve out, and clean the screens.

First off, if you're going to own a Banshee then you need to buy a Clymer's manual for it, and do some reading. Reading your first post gave me a headache with the lack of punctuation, and misspelled words. When someone asks you a question, give a proper, and detailed answer, not a vague answer like the first one you gave. People on here are willing to help, but good grief, you need to help us out some, so we know exactly what is going on.

Check the pick-up gap on your flywheel, .018-.020. A business card works good, or feeler gauges. Take the spark plug boots off, and cut the wires back about a 1/4". Put new plug boots on.

The Q0 is the leanest one. I have the same carbs, but I'm on notch 4 to fatten up the mid-range. What mods do you have done?

When you put the grease zerk in the carrier, you need to take the inner seal out of the bearing on each side, so the grease can get to the bearings.

The gear is attached to the back of the clutch basket, and there shouldn't be any movement between them. You need to buy a Clymer's manual, so you have a better idea of what is going on.

Those 260 mains are for the FMF pipes only, and having the pods on makes the 260's too lean. 27.5 pilot, and 1.5 turns out on the air screw should get you in the ballpark to start. Do a leak-down test before you do anything else, or you'll be chasing your tail for days on this.

Yes, any year of cases will work, just make sure that they are a matched set. You might want to put up a post in the Swap Shop in the Wanted section. I'm sure someone here probably has a good set of cases you could buy.

Blowing flames out the exhaust is a sign of being way too lean. Do a leakdown test, and make sure that it's sealed up good.

Get rid of those boost bottles, unless you want to crack your intakes.

http://www.cascadeinnovations.net/store/store_View.cfm?STORE_AREA_ID=3&store_dept_id=12

Stock pipes, or after market pipes?

You'll gain nothing having it bored, if it doesn't need a top end rebuild done. Having your cylinders ported is what you want to do, instead of boring it.

I've had the same FAST clutch in my stock cylinder 4 mil for at least 6-7 years, with zero issues.