fastbanshee8

You might want to consider replacing you coil. They are only about $20, and it might give you some piece of mind. Sometimes, when one electrical component goes bad, it can foul up something else in the system.

Don't use JB Weld, because your 2 stroke oil will turn it to mush. You will have to find a 2 part epoxy, that's gas and oil resistant. I tried JB Weld on some carb caps once, and it lasted about 2 hours, then it turned soft, and peeled off like old used silicone.

Before tearing into the motor, check your air mixture screws. They should be adjusted the same number of turns out, on each carb. They should be set somewhere between 1-2 turns out.

I've tried every brand of glue imaginable, and nothing works. Wire them on.

Ususally you will smell anti-freeze, because it's dripping out the overflow tube, onto one of the pipes.

Finding the right tap for the zerk, is the worst part. Be sure and clean the inside of the carrier up good. Use some sandpaper, or a wire wheel or brush to clean the rust out, where the bearings and seals set. If you can get your hands on a bearing press, it won't take very long to press in the bearings and seals. A big bench top vise will also work.

If you want to play in mud and water, the Banshee really isn't the ideal quad. To make the Shee scream, you need to increase airflow, which means getting rid of the snorkel, and in some cases removing the airbox completely. The snorkel is way too restrictive. Trying to get good air flow through the snorkel, is like trying to shove a bowling ball through a garden hose. Get a K&N or good foam filter, and filter plate for the inside of the airbox, an Outerwear, and remove the snorkel. Then you can drill holes in the airbox lid, or remove the lid all together. The Outerwear will help repel most water, unless you completely submerge the filter, or continuously splash water on it. Just my .02, but I've had my Shee since 96, and I've had to live and learn, as I went along.

Since it has gotten warmer, it could be too rich on the bottom end. Try opening up you air screws 1/4-1/2 turn, on each carb, and see if that doesn't help. You may have to open them up more than what I suggested, to get it tuned right.

If you still have the stock carrier, you might want to drill a hole in it, and install a grease zerk, while you have it down. Then, before installing the bearings, take the inner seal out of each one. I did this little mod, about 6 years ago, and I haven't had anymore bearing problems. Just my .02.

The FMF silencers come with a mounting kit, that moves them out from the grab bar. I used to have FMF's and they cleared my fat grab bar, with the FMF mounting brackets. You should have got 2 aluminum spacers, 2 rubber grommets, 2 rubber washers, and 2 steel washers, with the silencers, unless you bought them used.

When I bought mine, 4-5 years ago, it was $335, with the inline charging circuit.

You can have someone measure the cylinder, and see how much they have been bored. It's probably going to be a lot cheaper, to pick up another cylinder, or a pair of cylinders, versus having them re-sleeved. With all of the people running Cub cylinders, there should be quite a few on Ebay, or maybe someone in here has a good set. If you just have the bad cylinder re-sleeved, then it will have to be bored out, to match the other one, which will waste some bore sizes. Having both re-sleeved, will cost more than a set of good used cylinders.

If you get the inline charging circuit, that plugs in between the stator, and the voltage regulator, you don't have to worry about the battery going dead, unless you let it set there and idle for several hours. The charging circuit costs about $30-$35 extra, but it's well worth it. I've had the MSD for 4-5 years, and I've never had any problems with it.

Didn't want to see you destroy a brand new top end.

You need to have your domes cut, to accept the pistons, because the pistons will come up out of the cylinders 2mm, and hit the domes, if they aren't cut. 18cc or 19cc domes should be fine, once they are cut.

Not unless, they are torn or defective. You can reuse them several times, but after some time, they will get hard and crack. If they get hard, or crack, or tear, then you need to replace them.

Check for a bad or loose ground wire.

Do you still have the TORS on the carbs??????? If you do, unplug the little black box, under the tank, on the left side, and see if that helps.

Sounds like you are too lean on your needle. Drop the clip one notch, and see if that doesn't help.

I used to have an FMF Ram Valve, and the only place to get reeds was FMF. I don't know if one of the other manufacturers makes any reeds to fit it or not. Try calling FMF, and see what they have to say. Maybe they know of someone that makes reeds for the Ram Valve, or they may know of someone that has them in stock. Reeds made for the stock cages won't fit, because they aren't wide enough, or long enough.

Pull both carbs, one at a time, and clean them. It's possible that you got some water in them. Water will stick to the inside of the passages, and the inside of the carb, jets, etc. Water can and will block off the jets, not allowing any fuel to pass through. Just a thought.

FMF Ram Valve.

As fas as I know, all of the CPI's are stamped now.

Just put a restraining order on his ass, and if he comes around anymore, call the police, and he goes to jail, again. That way, you don't get yourself or your dogs in trouble.

WD-40 works real good, as a starting fluid.