fastbanshee8

Most of the time, hard starting when cold is a sign of a lean pilot circuit. Either the pilot jet is too small, or the air mixture screws are turned out too far. Make sure the tube between the carbs is in place, and isn't split or cracked.

I can't remember how much I gave, but I think it was around $60, give or take. It has a rubber boot, that is put into the back of the carbs, while the motor is running. There is a gauge on it, that will give a reading. Adjust both carbs at idle, so they have the same reading, then I just used a zip tie to hold the throttle open a little bit, so as to check the adjustment again, at around 3000 RPM's. Before starting, the air mixture screws must be adjusted the same on both carbs. First adjustment is made by setting both slides the same, and the second adjustment is made by the cable adjusters on top of the carbs. It sounds more complicated than it is. There are instructions with the carb synch tool, and if you have any problems, Jeff @ Fast Racing will answer them. Just PM Fastoys on here. He can answer any other questions you might have.

Your carbs could be out of synch, or your air mixture screws could be a little out of adjustment. PM Fastoys, as he has a great carb synch tool for sale. I have one, and it works great.

87-94 use the same CDI box. 95-96 use the same CDI box. 97-06 use the same CDI box. The 95-96 are different from the previous years, and the later years. I have a 96, and the CDI is a little more pricey for the 95 and 96. Just thought someone might like the clarification, on the CDI boxes through the years.

This would just be a guess, without seeing the plugs, but I would say that you are fouling them, because your jetting is too rich.

If you don't want to run the stroker plate, you will have to get the head cut. You may be able to get thicker base gaskets, but I'm not sure on those. 2mm is quite a bit of a difference in stroke, to try to make up with gaskets. Just my .02. PM Jeff at FAST, he goes by Fastoys on here.

A dirty, worn, or clutch cable in need of lube, will be harder to pull. I'd try to lube the cable, or replace it, and see if it gets any easier to pull, before opening up the clutch. If both of those fail, then open up the clutch, and see what's going on. Just my .02.

A lot of sellers are charging ridiculous shipping and handling rates on Ebay, so that they don't have to pay as much in fees. Ebay charges a percentage of the items selling price as a Final Value Fee, so sellers can avoid fees, by selling the item at a low price, and charging a really high shipping and handling price. I know it sucks, that is why it is highly recommended to read the entire auction before bidding. Usually, if something is to good to be true, there's a catch, ie, low price=high shipping. The only thing to do, is to contact Ebay, and report the item as excessive shipping, and see what they will do. Other than that, don't buy any more cheap items, with high shipping charges, and the sellers may finally get the message.

Count me in also.

I never said I did it, but I know of several people that have. We happen to have 2 house cats of our own, so it's not something I would do.

Catch the cat again, take a wire brush to it's ass, and then spray it down with carb cleaner. It won't come back ever again, trust me. I've seen it done.

The question was about FMF Fatties and SST's, and nothing to do with Toomey's. It's all personal preference, when it comes to the different manufacturers. He asked about FMF's, so I'm just guessing that he is only considering FMF's, or already has them. BTW, I out ran every Toomey Shee I ever raced, with my FMF's.

The SST's are more for a stock port motor, and they will respond to the port work, but the Fatties will respond even better. SST's to Fatties, is like comparing T-6's to T-5's. SST's and T-6's are made for stock port motors. Run the Fatties. I used to have a set of Fatties on mine, before I had it ported, and put them back on after the port work. Damn what a difference.

It's more like, I know how you can fix that problem... let your girlfriend ride it, because she didn't have any problems with shifting. Hope to see you down there.

Just had to give you a little crap about the shifting. I'm still recovering from the nerve surgery on my left elbow, and the Dr. said I wouldn't be 100% healed, until the middle of September. Hopefully the healing goes well, and we have the money to go, because we haven't went down at all this year. Kinda sucks, because we only live 3 hours away.

Your YFZ is anything but slow, unless you cannot shift it. I saw it run at Coffeyville back in June.

Between the CPI's and the T-5's, go with the CPI's. I have a set of CPI's now, and I can trail ride just fine, even with a +4 swinger. I used to run FMF Fatties, and the CPI's seem to have more on the bottom, than the Fatties did, plus a lot more mid and top. Just my .02.

The needle and seat is above the float. To change it, you will have to pull the pin out of the float, and then there is a little keeper wire for the needle, that slides over a tab on the float, that you will have to slide off the float. It's really simple to understand and do, once you take the bowl off of the carb, and look at everything. After the float and needle are out of the way, the seat can be removed with a wrench. Can't remember the wrench size, but it's metric. If you have a Clymer's manual, it's covered in the book.

I had this happen to me several years ago, and the needles and seats for the fuel inlets were bad. If you are running stock carbs, you can order new needles and seats for both carbs. The fuel inlet needles and seats were $70 for both carbs. It doesn't take much to mess them up, and you really can't tell by looking at them. If you want to check them, take one carb out, and pull the bowl off. Push the float up gently, until it pushes the needle up, and then turn on the fuel valve. If fuel starts running out with the needle pushed up, then the needle and/or seat is bad. It doesn't take much fuel getting past the valve, to cause the carbs to flood.

Well, what you mention above is part of the overall problem with Ebay also. You have to look at it through the eyes of a store owner. When you sell, and it doesn't matter where it's at, you cannot take loss after loss, and stay in business. If you figure in product costs, listing fees, store fees, shipping fees, PayPal fees, and so on, and maybe a little extra for your time, then you CANNOT sell items for pennies on the dollar. That is why the Ebay auctions have died down, and store listings went way up. The sellers were trying to protect their investments. Sell through rates on auctions were terrible, about 1 in 10 or 15 auctions would actually sell, unless you listed it for $0.99, and took a loss. Hell, $0.99 item sale, won't even cover your listing fees, let alone all the others. Basically, if you want cheap $hit, hit your local garage sales, and flea markets, were there is very little to no operating costs. Times have changed, and Ebay has changed, buyers and sellers alike. When Ebay first started, it was mainly people getting rid of stuff that they didn't want or need anymore, but that stuff will dry up sooner or later. There are a lot of threads on the Ebay message boards talking about all aspects of the stores and auctions. Today's society is so fast paced, that people no longer want to wait 3, 5, 7, or 10 days for an auction to end, and then get the item sniped from them at the last minute. The stores worked great for people that didn't have the time to wait on an auction. The buyer knew, with store items, what the price and shipping would be. Simply put, the stores had the power of instant purchase, and a lot of buyers liked that. There was a comment made on one of the threads, and I quote, "auction bidders, are mainly bargain hunters, and bottom feeders". Some are, and some aren't. With the number of sellers leaving Ebay right now, you are going to be hard pressed to find the things you want or need. There will be less competition, and less products, and the sellers that do stay, will have to pass the fee increases off to the buyers, to stay afloat. Anyways, I found another site, and I'm thinking about an online store.

Ebay has pretty much screwed everyone, who wants to sell anything under $15. No matter how you list it, or where you list it, if you list it with Ebay, you're gonna come out on the short end of the stick. I'm watching their stock, and this makes the second day in a row, that it has dropped, but the Ebay bigwigs are also in the middle of a Ebay stock buy-back, to the tune of $2 million dollars. Something doesn't smell right with that.

Well it's like this, if you had buyers for items in the $1-$15 range, and auction fees ate up so much of your profits, that you lost money, you would list those types of items in a store for .03 per item, and pay the 8% FVF to Ebay, and another 3% to PayPal. Another thing is, Ebay buyers tend to think that "everything" can be had for pennies on the dollar. One seller had an item at auction, that listed for $700 wholesale, and started the auction out at $399, and got no bids, but a buyer asked him, if he would sell it for a measley $1. There is no way, you can list the cheaper items in an auction, and come out ahead, especially if you figure in anything for your time, because you still have to add in initial item cost, on top of everything else. I'm going somewhere else with my stuff, but I don't know where, and I'm completely done with Ebay, as a lot of other sellers and buyers are. BTW, sellers in China pay no listing fees whatsoever, on store items. Kinda makes things really out of balance, because US sellers are paying more to help cover the oversea's operating cost's. If you don't have much experience selling on Ebay, then you won't really have a clue, as to what all is involved.

I don't know if anyone on here heard about this or not, so here's the links. The first one is a copy of the message that the CEO sent to all sellers, and the second link is to a thread on the Ebay message board. Link #! http://www2.ebay.com/aw/core/200607191343242.html Link #2 http://forums.ebay.com/db2/thread.jspa?thr...d=1153453881208 Some of you probably won't care about this, but it will affect some of the members on here. Basically what's going to happen is, store owners are going to be forced to either close their Ebay stores, or sell more items at auction. If they sell more items at auctions, watch out, because things won't be as cheap as they used to be. If you have an opinion on this mess, either for or against please reply. There are many sellers and buyers that have left Ebay already, or are going to by 8/22/06. BTW, the CEO's "6%" price increase is BS, because a listing that used to cost .02, will now cost at least .05, and some listings will cost at least .10. The final value fees, have also gone up another 20%-30%. It all adds up. I know, it doesn't sound like much, but when some sellers have a thousand items or more in their store, it's gonna hurt. I was contacted by Ebay, and told that if I kept my store, my costs per month would go up an additional $60.00.

To be on the safe side, get rid of the stock filter set-up first. Like someone else already said, either go with K & N clamp on pods, or keep your airbox, and get an aftermarket filter plate, and K & N. Once you have a good filter set-up, then you can proceed on to the pipes, coolhead, reeds, and so on. And welcome to the HQ.

A friend sent this to me, and I thought somebody else might like it. A girl from Kansas and a girl from the east coast were seated side by side on an airplane. The girl from Kansas, being friendly and all, said, "So, where ya from?" The east coast girl said, "From a place where they know better than to use a preposition at the end of a sentence." The girl from Kansas sat quietly for a few moments and then replied: "So, where ya from, bitch?"