fastbanshee8

One thing is for damned sure, and that's to get rid of the stock air filter set up, because it's junk. If you plan on keeping the air box, invest in a Pro-Design Filter plate, or a similar one from another manufacturer, and get a K&N filter, or an aftermarket foam filter. If you decide to get rid of the air box, then get some K&N clamp on pod filters, with Outer Wears. Sooner or later, the stock filter set up, will probably cost you a top end rebuild.

I think you had better do some more checking on the +4mm stroker, because I was told it was 2 mm further out, which makes for a total of 4mm increase, from top to bottom. A +4mm increase, would make for a top to bottom increase of +8mm. The 795 series or blaster pistons, only make up for the increase in rod length, that's why the domes have to be cut, or a spacer plate used, to make up for the increase in stroke of the crank. If you don't believe me, just call Jeff @Fastracing, and he'll straighten things out.

If you don't get good traction at the start, you'll end up playing catch up, if you don't run out of room. All the HP in the world won't help you, if you can't get it hooked up to the ground. On dirt, I'd have to say it will be a toss up, but on asphalt, you should win.

Personally, I wouldn't run a set of Toomey's, if someone gave them to me, but that' just my opinion, because I think they are way over-rated. I used to run FMF Fatties, with and without a port job, and it ran great, but a lot better with the port job. Seems like most people don't like the FMF's, because they think a pipe has to shine like a diamond, to run good. My Fatties would hit like a mo-fo in the mid-range, especially after the port job was done. And remember, you will find a bunch of different opinions, on each question, but it's your decision, since it's your quad, and that's all that really matters. Do what makes you happy, and go on.

If the cages are FMF Ram Valves, your Boyesen reeds won't fit. The Ram Valves use a larger reed, than the stock cages do. I used to run the FMF Ram Valves, before I got my VF II's, and the Ram Valves worked better than the stock cages, IMHO.

I never respond to "emails", from Ebay or PayPal, that go to one of my email accounts. I just go into Ebay, or PayPal, and check to see if there is anything in my messages. When Ebay sends you an email, an exact copy will be in your messages folder, and that's the one I respond to, if need be. It keeps the hackers, and frauds out.

I voted right after work, and I agree 100%, that someone that doesn't vote, has NO right to bitch.

It's amazing the type of men the liberal culture spawned from the 60's to now. They've created several generations of spineless wimps. We were attacked and the enemy wants to destroy us and you spineless, liberal, communists, would rather cower in fear than confront those who want to destroy us. The islamofascists won't be happy till they conquer the world. Wake up you spineless, girliemen, before it's too late. You gotta stand for something, or you will fall for anything.

It depends on which alloy the wheels are made of. I work for Alcoa, which is the largest aluminum company in the world, so I deal with the stuff on a daily basis. 450 degrees will weaken the wheels somewhat, because the aluminum wheels have some other metal alloys in them. You probably won't see any changes on the surface, but things will change with the grain size and layout. I wouldn't recommend getting the wheels that hot, unless you check with Douglas first, and they say it's okay.

I emailed him through Ebay, just to see what kind of response I would get. I told him that something was wrong, since part of the description contained references to a coin, and that he could ship the quad for $3.00. He replied that he only sells coins, and that I should write Ebay, then he emails me two more times, saying that he sells coins, not tractors, and then he asks me what the problem is. I'm like WTF??? This guy is a total F'in retard, and evidently he thinks that, if he plays stupid, nobody will figure out what is going on. This clown has to be the dumbest scam artist on Ebay, ever.

Check with Jeff @ Fast Racing. I'm running one of his clutches, and if I remember right, it's an R6 clutch, but I'm not 100% sure.

I ran the living $hit out of a stock crank for 9 years, before replacing it. I was getting some bad vibrations, so I changed it out, and good thing I did, because the clutch side bearing was going out. You never know how long something will last. Take care of your stuff, and chances are, it will last a good long time.

It could be that your float height is set too high, or your needle and seat, above the float is dirty or ruined. Clean the needles and seats above the floats, and make sure the float height is right. Put everything back together, and if it still leaks, replace both needles and seats.

You will have to remove the carbs from the bike, to clean them. Take them off one at a time, so you don't mix up parts. Remove the carb top, turn it over, and remove the carb bowl. Take out the main jet, and the pilot. Clean everything with aerosol carb cleaner. Clean it, inside and out, including all passageways, and jets. It's not difficult, just a little time consuming.

Launch in 2nd gear, it should help eliminate some of your wheel spin.

The longrod is easier on parts, making for a more reliable engine.

It's either Alcohol, Tobacco, and Firearms, or automatic transmission fluid. Take your pick. :laugh:

Fast racing site;http://www.farmandsandtoys.com/

34mm carbs will be too big, more than likely. Get the pipes, K&N air filter or pods, porting, and some 28mm, or 30mm carbs, and some reeds. If you have any money left, get a timing plate and advance it +4. Once you do, hang on, and kick some a$$.

Do you have any mods yet? If so, list them, so we have something to go by.

You might have bad spark plug boots, or a bad connection between the boots, and the wires. Unscrew the boots, cut about 1/4" off of each wire, and then screw the new boots back on. Faulty electrical components will usually quit, as they heat up. It's a cheap fix, and worth doing, if nothing else, but for piece of mind.

White Brothers catalog has them, or at least they did last year.

David

No bearings. The hub is splined on the axle, and is held tight by both nuts. If the hub was loose for very long, it's possible that the splines on the hub and/or axle have been damaged.

10 years, and still kicking, although it's caused me to have 5 broken ribs, and 1 broken collar bone. The last wreck was bad enough, that I had to get a new frame.