fastbanshee8

If you run your stock cylinders with a +4 stroker, +5 longrod crank, you will need the 795 series pistons, because of the longer rods, and you will need to get a set of cut domes, for the +4 crank. If you just run a +4 crank, you will still need a set of domes cut.

Make sure your throttle cable ends are firmly seated in the adjusters, on the tops of the carbs. I've had my throttle cable ends get pulled out, when removing and reinstalling the carbs, and that will make it rev like hell, even if it's just on one side.

With Ebay, you never know exactly when an item will show up in the search function. In the past, when I used to sell on there, I've had items take in excess of 24 hours, before they would show up using the search. It sucks, but Ebay claims it's "normal".

You are choking it down, with the snorkel. Take that damned thing off, put some 260 mains in, at the very least, and do some plug chops to check your jetting. Trying to get enough air to feed the beast, through that snorkel, is like trying to force a bowling ball through a garden hose. The exhaust has been opened up, and the intake has been somewhat with the K&N, but that snorkel is killing you.

The Fatty's will work great on a stock engine, and will perform even better with porting. It's up to you to decide which pipes you want, but I used to run Fatty's, before I got CPI's, and I really liked the Fatty's.

It's not uncommon, to have to put spacers in between the pipe hangers, and the frame, when putting on inframe drag pipes. I had to do it with my CPI's. I went to the local hardware store, and got some 3/8" thick nylon spacers, with a hole already in them. I also had to use the same spacers, between the silencers, and the frame, in the back.

Since it won't kick start, or idle, I would start with cleaning both pilot jets really good.

I bought one and installed it, a little over a year ago, and I haven't had any problems at all. Cools good, and no leaks, plus it was about half the price, of the other big radiators. I'm happy with mine.

It could also be a bad needle and seat, that's above the float. If you clean the carb, and it still leaks, then it's time to replace the needle and seat.

FMF's like a fatter pilot, and if you have stock carbs, put in a 27.5, and set both air mixture screws at 1.5 turns out. You may have to adjust the air mixture screw a few times, to get it right.

To put the horsepower to weight thing into prospective, it costs an additional 1 HP, for every 8 lbs. of additional weight that you have. A 150 lb. weight disadvantage, will cost you about 19 HP, which is a lot. There are a lot of factors which go into a race, and weight and HP, are just a couple. You can race on paper all you want, but to find out for sure, you have to race. Let us all know how you fair.

We have a family member that's an RN, and she said that the first thing they give anyone put into alcohol detox is vitamin B12, because alcohol destroys all of the B12 in your body. Take some B12 before drinking, and the morning after, and see if that helps at all. Just what I was told.

Last time I did a top end on mine, it cost me $300 for parts, and labor to bore and hone. I did the tear down and re-assembly myself. Parts included pistons, rings, gaskets, wrist pins, and wrist pin bearings. It was about $125 for the bore and hone, but around here that's a normal price.

I've been thinking the same damned thing, since I saw the name HotCarl on here. :yelrotflmao: Fastbanshee8

Nothing for the Shee this year, but got about $3,000.00 worth of stuff last year, that hasn't even seen the sand at LS yet. The wife and I did get a new 52" big screen TV for our Christmas, and it beats the crap out of the 27", that recently died on us. LOL

I haven't experienced it personally, but I have been told by several of the local shops, and flat track racers, that a +4 axle with stock a-arms doesn't turn for shit. According to what I've been told, you get better handling with your front end about an inch wider, than the rear. Just passing on, what I've been told.

Put a little bend job, on the carb cap brackets, put the screws in, and call it good.

You're lean. Check for air leaks, as mentioned before, clean your carbs, adjust air mixture screws, or re-jet. I wouldn't be starting it, until you find the problem, otherwise you might be doing an unexpected top-end rebuild.

Yeah, I forgot to mention that I also had to space my silencers out from the frame. I've got one of the FAT grab bars, and the silencers were hitting it. I think I used 3/8" spacers, front and rear.

I have the same set up, and I just ended up tilting my carb to the inside. It's been like that for a year, and no problems so far. I also used some spacers between the pipe hangers and the frame, to gain a little bit more room.

That thing is so fast..., that the damned fenders just flew right off there. You shoulda seen it. Fastest damned gol derned thing I ever seen.

Your chain will last longer, if you leave the 14 tooth on the front, and put a 43 or 44 tooth on the rear. Going 2-3 teeth bigger on the back, is close to the same, as going 1 tooth less in the front.

Synching your carbs by eye isn't accurate at all. I bought one of the carb tools from Jeff, and checked mine, and they were both off at idle, and on up in the RPM's. It doesn't take much of a difference between the air mixture screw adjustments, idle screw adjustments, and/or throttle cable adjustments to make one side a little richer than the other. The side that is rich will smoke more. If you're that worried about it, spend the money, buy the carb synch tool, and do it right. If your compression is good in both sides, and there isn't anything wrong with either exhaust, then it has to be carbs, or reeds.

Definately use the dust caps off of your stock arms. Not only do they help keep dirt and stuff out of the bushings, but they are also spacers, to keep the a-arms from moving back and forth.

I saw somewhere, that a certain builder was real good with the timing settings on the Banshee MSD ignition, but I can't remember who it was. Does anyone know, and does the builder have an email address that I can contact them through? If anyone knows, please help, and thanks.