fastbanshee8

I don't think that there is a BHQ members discount through Fast, but you can PM him, and ask. You won't find better customer service, and his prices are very hard to beat. He has a lot of things in stock, so you usually don't have to wait on an order to come in, to get your parts and he ships fast also.

Contact Jeff @ Fast Racing. He has a banner on here, and his login is Fastoys.

Running an inframe pipe, without silencers, or packing will hurt the performance of the pipe. The pipes were designed to be ran with silencers, and packing, besides that, having the exhaust dumping out under the seat, and plastic, would probably make a mess, plus melt the plastic. IMO, CPI's are loud enough with the silencers on, so why would you want to remove them, or the packing? It's stuff like that, that causes problems, and gets riding areas shut down. A lot of places already have decible limits for exhausts. Don't run without packing, or silencers, because you're just giving the anti-ATV people one more thing to bitch about.

In one of your previous posts, you said fuel was dripping out of one of the hoses, and now you are saying the bowl is leaking. Those are two entirely different problems. Which is it? If it's just fuel leaking around the bowl gasket, then put a new one on. Also, you say the needle, and seat are clean, but that doesn't mean it's not letting a small amount of fuel by. I had a set of carbs, several years back, that were over filling the bowls. I cleaned them, but it didn't help. The float needle, and seat, were junk, so I bought new ones, and the problem was solved. It doesn't take much to mess them up either, and you won't necessarily be able to see it. If the floats are set at the correct height, and the bowl is over filling, to the point that fuel is running out your overflow hose, then it's pretty obvious, that the needle, and seat are bad, and need to be replaced. If this is your problem, then the side with the fuel running out, is running rich, and the other side may be fine, but you cannot get it jetted properly, without fixing the problem. Clean carb parts, don't necessarily mean good carb parts.

You need to fix the problem, with the fuel running out the overflow hose, before doing anything else, or you will end up doing twice as much work.

If the floats are adjusted properly, and the carb is still leaking fuel out of the overflow, then the needle, and seat above the float is either dirty, or needs replaced. The needle, and seat being dirty, or worn out, will cause one side to be very rich, and you won't be able to adjust the carbs, and make it run good. In short, yes, the carb leaking fuel out the overflow hose will make it run like shit. Another thing is, FMF pipes like a fatter pilot. Try a 27.5 or even a 30, but you must fix the fuel leaking out the hose first, before anything else will help.

You can use the stock crank, but you need to use the long rods (115mm), for the Blaster pistons. A Banshee long rod crank is what you need, because the wrist pin is placed higher on the Blaster pistons, and 795 series Wiseco Banshee pistons.

I hope you got the Pro Design intake for the V-Force reed cages, because the regular intake has a diverter plate in it, that goes inside the stock cages.

That factory o-ring is a cushion for the stock clutch only, and needs to be removed, when installing an aftermarket clutch. More than likely, the o-ring is causing your problems.

I couldn't agree more. With a CCW, you would never know who was armed, and who wasn't, and neither would these idiot terrorist's, and mass murderers. It would make some of them think twice, before they got some dumb idea, to walk into the local college, or mall, or McDonalds, and start shooting the place up. If a business, or other public place is going to outlaw guns on the premises, then they should have security in place, to prevent guns from entering. I know that my last statement, sounds like a real expensive pain in the ass, for businesses, colleges, and so on, so why not allow people with CCW's to carry, where ever they go? I know it wouldn't prevent everything, but it would damned sure be a whole lot better, than what we have now, in 99% of the public places.

We're going down on Wednesday afternoon, and leaving on Sunday. We will have one ATC 250R, two yellow Polaris 400 Sports, and my white, and blue Banshee. Most likely we will be in the south camp.

You should be able to use the throttle cable for the stock carbs with the TORS removed, on the 30mm Mikuni's. I've got the same cable, and it works with my 34mm Mikuni Flat-slides, but just barely.

Make sure the gas cap vent, and/or the vent hose isn't plugged up. I've seen that happen, and it slows the fuel flow down real bad.

Your bearings probably won't last very long, because the spacer is there to keep the inner race of the bearings from being pushed in, when the axle nuts are tightened. Without the spacer, there will be a large amount of side load on those bearings, and they will fail rather quickly. To put the spacer back in, you will more than likely, have to sacrifice one bearing and seal. If one or both bearings fail, you could end up replacing an axle, brake rotor, chain, sprocket, well, you get the picture.

Someone on here will have one, or try Ebay. Check the For Sale or Trade listings.

I had a pair of 28mm Mikuni's, that I put the K&N pods on. The pods were for the stock carbs. It might be hell the first few times you put them on, but after a while, the pods will stretch out.

Here's a little tip, to make the bearings last a long time. Once the bearings, and seals are out, drill and tap the bearing carrier for a grease zerk. Before installing the bearings, remove the inner seal from each bearing, and press them in. Once the carrier is assembled, fill the carrier with grease, but not so much, that it squeezes out past the dust seals on the outside. I did this same thing 8 years ago, and I'm still using the same set of bearings. You will only need to give the carrier a few shots of grease every couple of months.

There's an o-ring on that tube, that has probably went bad. You will see the o-ring, once you pull the clutch cover off.

I have a polished aluminum cover, and there's just a hole for the shift shaft to go through. It doesn't support the shaft at all, and neither does the stock cover.

Did you take the snorkel off the airbox lid, or leave it on? If you left it on, get rid of it, and you won't be choking down your intake side.

Stock rods are 110mm, and the long rods are 115mm.

I've got a brand new front fender, with a sticker kit, and matching seat cover. PM me for pics.

Put the 200 mains back in the carbs, and open up your air mixture screws 1/4/1/2 turn. Just make sure both screws are set the same, and see if that helps. Definately sounds like it's getting way too much gas at idle. It's slobbering around, like it has mad cow disease. Since it's loading up real bad at idle, you are going to have one helluva time getting your main jet right. Get the carbs adjusted, to that it will idle decent, and then worry about the mains. Just my .02.

There is an aluminum spacer two rubber mounts, and a flat washer or two, that is used to mount each silencer. You may be able to get them in a kit, from FMF, but I've never saw the silencer mounting kit sold seperately anywhere. And your silencer is either on the wrong side, or you need to switch the silencer bodies from one side, to the other. The side of the silencer with the mounting tab, goes closest to the frame.

Even if you run stock length rods, you will still have to get your domes cut, but you can run the stock style pistons. You will be better off, with the +5 longer rods, because it helps with the reliability. Your parts will last longer with the longer rods. If you're going to put the stroker crank in, just go ahead and get the +5 longer rods while you're at it. It may cost you a little more now, but it should save you $, in the long run. PM Fastoys on here, and he can tell you everything that you need to know.