fastbanshee8

Check the For Sale section. Someone on here was advertising one, not too long ago.

If it still has the stock filter set-up, get rid of it quicly, because it's hard to make sure it's in place, and not leaking around the foam gasket. Pro Design, and a few others make an air filter plate that bolts to the front of the airbox, and is sealed with an o-ring. You will need to know what type of air filter you are going to run, before buying the plate, because the K&N filter is different from the foam types.

I'm not saying that this is the problem, but for no more than it will cost, and as easy as they are to replace, put some new spark plug boots on it. Cut about a 1/4" off of each wire, before putting the new boots on. Bad plug boots, can cause all sorts of strange problems.

It depends, because bent shift forks was the diagnosis that I got on mine, before tear down. He won't know for sure, until it gets tore down. I was just giving him an idea, of what could be wrong, and I wasn't saying that my idea was the correct one.

I had a similar problem years ago, but the seal behind the counter-shaft sprocket was bad, and some dirt, and debris got in the tranny, and bound things up. Nothing got tore up, but everything had to be cleaned up, and washed out.

I went through the same thing with mine. The bushing are a press in fit, and I used a c-clamp, and socket to remove the old one, and push the new one back in. Get a new c-clip, and clutch cover gasket also.

If it's the idler gear, then Jeff @ Fast has a steel bushing, that replaces the stock brass bushing. It's really not something that you should ignore, unless you want to replace a lot of parts in the bottom end. I replaced mine, because the idler gear had a lot of side to side play in it, and it was making quite a bit of noise. PM Fastoys on here, and talk to him.

A Banshee is no longer a Banshee, when the motor is changed out for something completely different. Like a crotch rocket motor, snowmobile motor etc. It's still a Banshee, even if it has a cub, or big stroker motor.

Check Cascade Innovations site for the right pipe clamp. You will need to know the OD of the pipe, to get the right one. Cascade, http://www.cascadeinnovations.net/

I mainly ride the dunes, but once in a while I run some local trails, and I've got CPI's, and couldn't be happier. I have more bottom end, mid, and top power with them, than I had with the FMF Fatty's, that I used to run, on the same motor. CPI's are more versatile, than Shearers, and that's what I've been told by several builders, and racers. If you just want to drag race, then go with the Shearers, but if you want to do a little of everything, then run the CPI's.

You can get them from Jeff at Fast, or directly from Cascade. Link for Cascade, http://www.cascadeinnovations.net/

How long has it been, since you replaced your spark plug boots, or have you ever done it? It might be time to replace them, and they are fairly cheap, and easy to replace, just be sure to cut about 1/4" off of each wire, before putting the new boots on. It might be worth it to replace them, just for the peace of mind.

It could be your idler gear bushing is worn out, and needs replaced. The stocker is brass, and wears rather quickly. Jeff @ Fast has a steel replacement bushing that works great. Pull the clutch cover, and check the idler gear for side to side play. There shouldn't be any, or very little.

Cascade has polished ones. Small Bore Shearer Exhaust Clamps Part: EXC-101-SH-P CASCADE EXHAUST CLAMPS WILL GIVE YOUR PIPES THE ULTIMATE SEAL! THIS SET HAS A POLISHED FINISH! $ 49.95 http://www.cascadeinnovations.net/

Try new spark plug boots. They are pretty cheap, and will cause all kinds of problems, if one or both go bad.

I've got the Boss intake, with the built in crossover, and it has the spacers built in. I think White Knuckle, and Boss make almost identical intakes. Someone else makes them, but I don't remember who.

The grease zerk is a great mod, but it won't do you any good, unless you pull the inner seal, out of each bearing. Another thing, when using the grease gun, don't keep pumping until grease runs out past the seals. Just grease it, until you feel some pressure at the grease gun handle.

Jeff at Fast has some that are o-ring sealed, where the front, and back halves screw together. Check his site, and here's a pic with a description. http://www.farmandsandtoys.com/partdetail.asp?partid=100

The Shearers are a top end pipe only, so if you're looking for some bottom end power, then stay away from them.

Jeff can be reached by clicking the following link, or calling the number below. http://www.bansheehq.com/adserve/adclick.p...andsandtoys.com Phone # is 1-785-364-5325

There is an o-ring behind the knob, and a rubber gasket between the tank, and valve, that could be causing your leak. Drain the tank, take the valve apart, and take the old o-ring down to the local hardware, or auto parts store, and find one that's the same size, or a little thicker, and put it in. I used one that was a little thicker, and the knob turns a little harder now, but at least it doesn't leak. The valve will turn easier, with some use.

Contact RNBRAD on here.

I had a set of FMF Fatty's on my 4mil Stroker, and then I switched to CPI's, and I ended up with more bottom end, mid-range, and top end. I know that some will question this, but it happened. I know, because I had the Fatty's on it, when I first put it back together, and then I switched over to the CPI's.

I believe that's what the Fast clutch is, but I could be wrong.

It's the choke tube, that connects the left carb, to the right one, and yes, it will cause all kinds of problems, if it's missing, or leaking. I left it off once, and the only way to get the motor started, was to pull start it, and it still ran like crap, until the choke tube was put back on.