fastbanshee8

There is a hole behind the left cylinder, that's supposed to be there. It's to allow dirt, water, etc., to drain off of the top of the case, to the ground.

If you don't plan on ever having any porting done on the cylinders, the get the Toomey T-6s. If you do plan on porting them in the future, then get the FMFs. I never liked the Bills pipes, but to each his own.

What year is your Banshee? Have you ever had the carbs apart? It's probably a small deal to you, unless hydro-locking the crank, and having to rebuild, and/or replace a bunch of stuff is a minor detail to you. Turning off the gas at the tank is something I do every time I get done riding. I turn the gas off, because I think it's the smart thing to do, and I don't like taking stupid chances with combustible materials.

Check for air leaks on the left side. Bad gaskets, torn intake boot, loose carb cap, and so on.

If someone wants to take your quad, a simple key switch isn't going to stop them. They can simply bypass the switch by splicing wires, and it's gone just the same.

The makers of the Pyramid reed valves recommend that you change the reeds after every 12 hours of use. That's enough for me not to use them.

Get a Magnum basket from FAST. It's a great basket, at a good price.

All of the FMF silencers that I've ran in the past, have had a washer, rubber grommet, and an aluminum bushing that mounts the silencer to the frame, on both sides. You are missing some parts. You're probably going to have to call FMF to get the parts you need, as I've never saw the silencer mounts sold separately anywhere. Your pipes will leak where the silencer mounts up, unless you use the stock rubber hoses, and clamps, or buy some aftermarket pipe clamps. Cascade sells some, as well as many of the site sponsors.

You're lean. Fatten up the main a few sizes, install new plugs, and check them again. Tan, or a light brown is good, but gray, or white is lean, and bad.

Try adjusting the air mixture screws on both carbs. Turn them in 1/4 of a turn each, give the motor 20-30 seconds to adjust, and see if it's any better. Just make sure that both air mixture screws are turned out the same number of turns. If the pilot jets are the right size, then you should have your air mixture screws turned out 1.5-2 turns. If they are out less than 1 turn, you need bigger pilot jets.

No problem.

Try this. http://home.earthlink.net/~gellett/banshee.htm You'll have to fill in some of the blanks, for your application.

Is the ID of the Toomey silencers smaller than those on the CPI's? If so, it will affect the performance some.

You can synch the carbs even better, if you have a carb synch tool from FAST. Here's the link, http://www.farmandsandtoys.com/partdetail.asp?partid=59 I've got one, and it works great. Well worth the money.

Mikuni's.

About every 15 degrees of temp change is when you should rejet. You should also adjust the air mixture screws each time the temp changes 15 degrees, if you want it to run as good as it can.

You can get by without the TORS eliminator kit for now, but the kit is a huge benefit, when it comes to cleaning up the carbs, and making them easier to work on. Just unplug the box, and throw it away. You'll need the complete kit, and have to drill, and tap the carbs, because once you remove the stock carb tops, you won't have any idle adjustment, until you drill, and tap them. You'll also need a new cable, because the stock one will not work.

Is the little black TORS box underneath the left side of the gas tank still plugged in? If it is, unplug it, and throw it as far as you can.

I tried the Plastic ReNew a few years back, and I have to say it was a waste of time, and money. Unless you have a paint booth, it's damned near impossible to keep dirt, and other debris out of the coating until it dries. The second, and worst part about it, is any type of degreaser, gasoline, carb cleaner, etc., will remove the Plastic ReNew. Also, the Plastic ReNew isn't very durable at all, as it scratches easily, and peels off very easily also. I can't recommend this product at all.

Your leak is caused by one of the two following conditions. Either the floats are set to high, or the needles, and seats above the float arms are bad. The needles, and seats can be replaced, and you won't necessarily be able to tell that they're bad by looking at them. Make sure the floats are adjusted to the proper height, and if fuel still comes out the overflow tubes, then the needles, and seats are bad. A Clymer's manual will tell you what height to set the floats at, and how to set them.

The pilot jets are located in a metal tube, right next to the main jet tube. It takes a small flat screwdriver to get them out. While you're at it, unplug the tors box, before it causes you problems. It's under the left side of the gas tank.

If the last poster is as "smart" as what he wrote, then maybe he should try one of the pink powerbands.

If the pick-up gap on the flywheel is too wide, it will usually cause it to run on one cylinder. It's been covered many times on this forum. It's an easy fix, and doesn't cost anything to check.

Check the gap on your flywheel. Most people use a matchbook cover to set it.

If you still have the TORS, then unplug the black box underneath the left side of the gas tank.