fastbanshee8

Last I heard, Wiseco made the pistons for Vito's, but to Vito's specs.

Good luck finding a set of pistons that will work better, or outlast a set of Wiseco's. That's all I've ever ran, and I've never had a problem with them.

Start with your air mixture screws. They should be open the same amount of turns, which should be 1.5-2 turns. Once you make sure they are the same, and if it's still idling too high, turn each one in 1/4 of a turn, and allow the motor some time to adjust to the changes. Keep doing this until it idles where you want it.

I think if anyone is dishonest enough, to not disclose any product defects, whether it be in the description, or the pictures, then NOBODY should ever buy anything from them. Dishonest douche bags like that, make it harder on everyone else to sell things, and that's not right at all. I wish I could change my vote to, "fold them in half, set them on fire, and shove them up his stupid ass!"

If you want the motor to live very long, ditch the junk stock filter setup first. If you plan on keeping the airbox, get one of the aftermarket flanges that bolt in the airbox, and then put a K&N, or some other foam filter on it, preferably with an Outerwear over the filter, or ditch the airbox altogether, and use pods with Outerwear's on them. Other than that, you are on the right track mod wise.

Try new spark plugs, and spark plug boots.

A leak down tester would be a good place to start. There's a thread on the site somewhere, about how to build it, and use it.

It's lean, because the jets are partially blocked, or you have an air leak somewhere. DO NOT ride it anymore, until you find the problem, unless you want to rebuild the top end.

FAST Racing is where I got the domes for my 4mil, or you can check with any of the other site sponsors.

It's easy to do, but it's been years since I've had stock carbs, so I don't know what the cost would be. I'd have to guess at least $35-$50 per carb, for the needles, and seats.

Either the float height is set too high, or the needle, and seat above the float is dirty, or needs replaced. If you replace the needle, and seat, you should replace them in both carbs.

With FMF pipes, you should be between 270's, and 290's on your main jets. Pull the pilot jet out of the right carb, and spray some carb cleaner through it, then reinstall it.

It's the nature of the beast, and is completely normal.

I run a set of Mikuni 34mm Flatslides, and I've always ran Mikuni's. I had a bunch of Mikuni jets, and I didn't care to switch brands, only to have to buy all new jets.

Do not use Plastic Renew. The first time you spill any kind of petroleum products on the plastics treated with it, or get any kind of grease, or oil removers on it, the crap will dissolve, or peel right off.

Try a 15 tooth counter shaft sprocket, it should help out quite a bit.

Main jet should be at least a 270, if not a 280, or 290. Start with a 290 main, and jet down if needed. Don't start small, and risk burning it up.

I've ran a Moose stator for better than 5 years now, and I haven't had a single issue with it, plus I like having more wattage for lights.

Check the right side for an air leak. Intake boots, base gasket, and reed cage gaskets are all possible leak points.

Just to make sure you don't make a mistake on your wheels, here's a bit of info for you. If you go with 10" rims in the back, get .190, so they don't bend, or egg shape, if you land wrong on a jump. If you go with 8" rims, the .125" rims will be fine. I've got the .125" rims on the back, and have had them since 1996, with no problems. With the smaller rims, there will be plenty of tire sidewall to protect the rims, or at least that's how it's worked for me.

How long does the sputter last, and does it feel like it's losing all power? To me, it's kinda sounding like it's lean on the needle. Don't mess with a bunch of carb changes at once, or you'll really never figure it out. While you have the carbs adjusted where they are now, try dropping the clips on the needles one notch, and see what happens. Are the carbs synched, and are you sure you don't have any air leaks?

One thing to keep in mind is, a bigger carb will flow more fuel through the same sized jet, than a smaller carb will, so you're going to have to jet down several sizes. I went from a pair of 28mm Mikuni's, to a pair of 34mm Mikuni's, and I had to drop the main down 6-7 sizes, and the pilot 2-3. I can't remember exactly, because it's been 4-5 years ago. With you switching carb brands, that going to throw a wrench in the works for me, as I've never ran Keihins.

If you cut one side out of the floats, they will never raise up to shut off the fuel coming into the bowls, and cause them to over fill. This will cause the overflow tubes to run gas out, as long as the gas is on, and create a rich condition. It doesn't sound like a good idea at all. If it was, then why do many of the builders, and racers use over sized bowls, and not do what you suggested?

Buy the Moose stator, and an extra regulator. Like I said before, I've had mine for 8 + years, and I've had no problems at all. If you need the extra lighting power, you can't go wrong with this set-up.

Go here, and download the free version. http://www.malwarebytes.org/mbam.php Update it, and run a full scan. Once that's done, go into system restore, and put your system back to before you clicked on the bad junk.