fastbanshee8

It's just a vacuum gauge.

I agree with them 110%. It doesn't matter how good you think your eyes are, you can be assured that one carb is set different than the other one. The carb synch tool is great, and it's very easy to use, plus it takes all the guess work out of adjusting the carbs.

You can get them from FAST Racing, but you'll have to get some flat washers to put underneath the acorn nuts. I've got a ProDesign Cool Head, and that's what I had to do. Acorn Nuts

There's nothing wrong with the FMF's, and many people on here agree with that, also. I used to run a set of Fatty's on a set of ported jugs, and I beat many other Shee's running Toomey's. To the OP, you will not get the maximum performance out of any of the pipes you are looking at, until you get some port work done.

The 115's are the long rods, which are 5mm longer than the stockers. The advantage of them is they make the motor more reliable, because there is less of a rod angle, and the pistons don't tend to try to rock in the cylinders as much, which helps prevent broken piston skirts.

The main doesn't affect the idle. The pilot jets, and air mixture screws do.

You have to buy the needed jets. There's no adjustments on the jets, only the idle screws, and the air mixture screws.

ModQuad Case Saver

Ask your buddy what jets came with the pipes, and go buy them, along with several sizes larger, and smaller. The jet kits are overpriced, and don't always have the sizes you need.

Getting rid of all the TORS crap on top of the carbs, makes it easier to rejet the carbs, and it cleans up the bike. The TORS is nothing, but a huge expensive headache.

If the plugs are white, it's lean as hell. Do not run it, until it's rejetted richer. Start with a 350, and see how it works.

Heli-coil the stripped hole. You can get the kits at the local auto parts store.

If it's the stock filter setup, get rid of that POS, and get something better, like a K&N, or an aftermarket foam.

As a general rule, they say that you should increase the main jet size 1 size, for every 10-15 degrees the temperature drops, and drop the main jet size, 1 size, for every 10-15 degrees the temperature increases. This is a pretty close to being right on, provided that you are jetted correctly, or very close.

Soak the fibers in whatever tranny oil you're going to use, and overnight would be good.

The long rod will give you better reliability. It puts less side load on the pistons. You should really get in contact with one of the site sponsors to buy your crank, as many of the eGay cranks are cheap knock offs, that will not last. You get what you pay for.

If you run the long rod stroker crank, you will need the Wiseco 795 series pistons. The wrist pin is higher on these pistons, to make up for the added length of the longer rod.

Chuck Norris does not kick ass, and take names. In fact, Chuck Norris kicks ass, and assigns the corpse a number. It is currently recorded to be in the billions. Chuck Norris plays racquetball with a waffle iron, and a bowling ball. The only sure things are Death, and Taxes.....and when Chuck Norris goes to work for the IRS, they'll be the same thing.

Take the carbs apart, one at a time, clean them, and reassemble them. Don't switch the bowls around, or it will cause problems, and make sure the slide cut outs face the rear of the bike.

Put a little bit of grease, or Vaseline on it, and it will hold it in.

One thing all the FMF hater's fail to realize is, if it wasn't for FMF, a bunch of the other pipe manufacturers wouldn't be in business, as FMF's pipe is the most copied pipe design in the world. I used to run FMF Woods pipes, and FMF Fatty's. The Fatty's were the best.

Stock gearing is 14/41, except for the first 2 years the Banshee was made, and I can't remember what it was exactly. I'm running 15/40 for dunes, and trails. It cuts down on the amount of shifting greatly, but I ride with a bunch of 4-pokes also.

I have heard of a lot of the cast pistons breaking skirts, so this isn't uncommon at all, but if you were to do a poll on this site, I'm guessing that Wiseco pistons would be the favorite by a 4:1 margin, or maybe even more. Too each his own, but until I have problems with Wiseco's pistons, I'll continue to run them.

Has anyone ever tried the rust, and blueing remover for guns? I'm not sure if it would harm chrome, or not, but if not, it sure does work great on rust spots on firearms.

But the pistons are still made by Wiseco, so the only thing left to worry about is the machine work. I don't know what problems people have been having with Wiseco's, but this is the first thread on here that I've saw, where it was mentioned. To me, this just sounds like a few people trying to bash the top selling piston, but maybe not. Supposedly, what are the problems with Wiseco's?