fastbanshee8

Make sure that the TORS box under the left side of the tank is unplugged. If you're unsure on how to do it, use the search function on here, as it has been covered many times.

It could also be the needles, and seats above the floats are worn out, and need replacing.

You will need the bearing, and dust seals to fix it. It's a good idea to take the inner seals out of the bearings, and put a grease zerk in the bearing carrier, so you can keep the bearings greased up. I did the grease zerk mod 12 years ago, and I've still got the same set of bearings in.

Now would be a great time to get some porting done. Replace all of your top end gaskets, and do a leak down test, before you start it up.

I've had a Pro Design for 12 years, and I've never had a single problem with it. I think I paid $60-$70 for it, and it's been well worth it.

A top end rebuild is pretty easy, but you'll have to take the cylinders to a machine shop, to have them checked out, before you order your pistons, and rings. Once you have the pistons, they can bore, and hone the cylinders. If your compression is 100, or less, it's definately time to rebuild, or if one cylinder is 5 lbs off from the other one, it's rebuild time.

Bigger carbs can be a pain to dial in the first time. I thought I was having jetting problems, and it ended up being a coil that was going bad. Once I changed that out, it was pretty easy to get it jetted right. Just remember, a bigger carb will flow more fuel through a jet, than a smaller carb will. Talk with Jeff, and see what he has to say, about your problem.

If you have the air mixture screw turned all the way in, then you're not rich. Turning it in, shuts down the air, and opening it up, adds more, so you are lean on your pilot.

It works just fine. I've done it before. Need is the Mother of all ideas.

Man, if that thing has valves in it, it's going to cost at least 50k to rebuild. You must have gotten the only 2 stroke/ 4 stroke hybrid Banshee ever made.

X's 2.

You probably broke the clutch cable, or you have stretched the cable out, and need to adjust it at the perch. Try checking those two out, and let us know.

Or even the 14 tooth, with having only 18" rears, because the smaller rear tires are already gearing it down.

Or put it in a high gear, and let out on the clutch, while holding the brakes.

30 pilots will probably be too rich, but it'll still run. You'll probably foul plugs faster.

With pods, you may want to start with a 340, just to be safe, and use the 27.5 pilots. Chances are, you won't get the jetting perfect the first time, so be prepared to rejet a few times. Those 240s are way lean for your mods, so don't even start it, until you rejet, or you'll probably blow the top end up.

Are they the stock carbs? If it's missing, there will be an open hole, that is threaded inside. If it is missing, then you will have to pull the carb to clean it, and then replace the screw, and spring. If they aren't stock carbs, then chances are that the air mixture screw is on the left side, of the right carb, which sucks to get to, but it's just one of those things we have to deal with when running after market carbs.

Rather than run the 2 into 1, most people prefer stock carbs. There's plenty of info on here about that subject, just use the search.

The 340 will be way rich for your setup. I'm running a 300, and I've got more motor, CPIs, and porting. Try starting with a 300, and jet down.

Right carb air mixture screw will be on the right side of the carb, on stock carbs, and if it's not, then you'll need to fix it, before you do anything else.

You'll need to rejet, after installing the K&N filter, and there is an air mixture screw on each carb. If they are the stock carbs, the air mixture screws will be on the outer side of each carb. You'll also have to rejet after installing the pipes. On stock carbs, with your mods, main jets should be 310-320, and the pilot jets should be 27.5's, with the air mixture screws 1.5-2 turns out, provided you are at sea level, or close to it.

320 mains, and 27.5 pilots, that is, if you have taken the snorkel off the lid.

You'll be over carbed with the 34's, and the 28's, or 30's will work much better, for your mods.

They will probably be tough to get dialed in, since they are really more than you need, but they'll work. I'm not sure where you'll want to start jetting wise.

Pods, are K&N clamp on filters. You use them when you ditch the air box. You really won't need the 34's, until you go to a stroker crank, and in frame drag pipes.