BansheeGuy_IV

Hiya, I Have almost the exact same setup... I'm at sea level. 12 port, Trinity heads with 17cc domes, V-Force 3, Modquad intake, 35mm PWK A/S carbs, Timing +5, and shearer pipes. Here's what I am running. 165 mains and CEL needles on the middle clip position. 45 pilots. Runs like a dream. I have about 30 sets of keihin needles... Every combination you can image... every main jet from 140 up to 190+. I experimented with each needle, until I found the one that worked the best. Basically, what I found was that any needle ending in "L" would make my low-end nice and crisp. The CGL needle ran great, but there was a tiny bit of missing/surging in the 1/2 to 3/4 range. When I moved to a richer taper, DGL, then the midrange was rich and flat. So I went to CEL and the rest is history. I experimented with alot of other needles with no success... DEK, DGM, DGN, EGL, EGM, EGK, CGM, CEK, CGK... The list goes on... Good Luck, BG BG

Hey hey hey, I am going to have to rehash what Jim, from Passion, is saying. I think the original poster's problem isn't jetting, or reeds, or leaky seals. I think his setup requires race fuel. He's developing preignition leading to detonation and ultimately destruction. The melt down caused the reeds to blow out, not the other way around. You have two options. Rebuild your engine and have a RZ head properly setup for pump gas, or run your current setup with some decent race fuel. You can't go wrong with VP C12 or Torco 110. With the right octane, you won't melt any more pistons. BG

Hey guys, I often see people asking about Shearer pipes, how they look, how they fit, etc. I just recently switched from Rocket pipes to Shearer. I took the advice of Jim from Passion Racing. What can I say about them? I would describe the actual quality of the pipes as "good". The welds are clean and straight. The aluminum welds on the silencers are close to the perfect "roll of dimes". The fit was "good". I didn' have to SHIM anything. I didn't have to bend anything. They bolted right up. The pipes clear everything, including the air filters! They leave plenty of room for my K&N pods without coming close to melting my outerwears. THe downside is that they can not be run with an airbox. The only beef I have with the pipes is the chrome. The chrome is a really cheasy 2 layer, industrial grade, flash chrome. I Have wrenches with a deeper luster. Ultimately, I'd recommend getting these pipes raw, in steel, and then having them custom triple plated. A good show chromer would have made these pipes look amazing. I Have no comment on their performance. There are plenty of other people who have commented on how they run, so I don't need to rehash. Take Care, BG

Hey ;-) I'm from the Network54 days. I just have undergone a few name changes. I started with "BansheeGuy" And I'm up to the 4th generation of my name now... I have a habit of forgetting passwords. ;-) Brooke Rocks, BG

I am almost positive they were from Fast Forward Motorsports. They were designed to make more horsepower, higher in the RPM range, than the Toomey T-5's... They claimed about 6 horsepower more. I never saw any kind of dyno runs or anything so I can't tell you if it was true. The shop is completely out of business as far as I know. BG

Hmmm... Those pipes look like the "side pipes" from a defunct shop up in Michigan that went by the name Fast Forward Motorsports. They are not CPI. BG

Hey, Those springs have to be removed. Those are also how you will reinstall your new pipes. To remove those springs, you can use a good pair of vice-grips. I use needle-nosed vice grips. They take a little bit of muscle. The best trick for getting the springs off is to use physics and inertia to your advantage. Clamp your vice-grips on. Get yourself in a good position, palm on the vice-grips, both hands... And lean your weight into the spring and bounce down hard all at once. You literally are giving them a pulse of force. With a little practice you'll learn to pop them off first try. If you try to apply slow, constant pressure to the spring, be prepared for a fight. Good Luck, BG

I don't discredit your builder's information. Seeing is believing. If your builder provides you with dyno data and you post it... That'll be a start. I am really a firm believer in evidenced based practice. In order for something to be considered efficacious (or lack thereof) it must meet several criteria. There must be enough data to show statistical difference. This data must be collected and calculated in such a way as to have an acceptable level of confidence. (A low p. value) The results should be pertinent and they should provide an explanation for the hypothesis. Most importantly, the data and results should be reproduceable, ie. stand the test of time. I'm not suggesting we design a double-blinded research experiment to test Nology coils. Don't get me wrong, that'd be cool as heck. In reality it isn't feasible without alot of financial support. (:-p). What I am suggesting is that we can at least adhere to some of the principles of evidenced based practice. In order to do this, we at least need to start with some reliable data -- Not word of mouth. BG

Hmmm... To use your cub analogy: No, I don't need to buy a cub cylinder to know it performs well. Why not? Because I've seen the dyno data, from multiple experienced and trusted engine builders. I've seen evidence for their performance first hand. If none of this information was available for the cub, I would not assume that it was a "good" or "bad" product. I would reserve my opinion until such time that reliable evidence became available. I certainly would not decide that the cub cylinder was bad, based on 3rd hand information, from a builder who has never tried one. This doesn't change my argument, but it does help augment it. Thanks for throwing me a bone. BG

Hmmm... Yeah and I know a friend, who has a cousin from Detroit, who used to date this girl, who had a brother who worked with a guy who tried a Nology coil on his Dodge Ram and lost 2 horsepower, therefore it must be true. No offense to the folks in the thread, but that posted crap from Dave Moore is the weakest argument I've ever seen. It can not be substantiated. It would have had an ounce of weight had Dave Moore dyno'd them himself and subsequently posted the results. He has not. He just has information from a "friend". I am sure it is just a mere coincidence that Dave Moore is also peddling is new "ignition" system for 250R's and banshees... I don't know if the Nology coils "work" or not, or if they make any change at all. What I do know is that I can't judge their quality or their effectiveness based on "3rd hand information" without any proof. BG

I took a look at the directions... Just says to use an oven that you don't use for food preparation. They show you using a standard kitchen oven, in a garage... So to be honest... if there are toxic gases... You're going to breath them in the same way in the garage as in the kitchen. However, I was thinking that over time... Maybe a film or coating, or layer of goo could build up in the oven's exhaust system from deposition from the "gases". If that is the case (I'm just speculating(, it's possible that this could affect food being baked in the oven. I don't want to take any chances. That last post got me thinking, and I appreciate it. So what I'm going to do is use my old gas grill. I don't use it for cooking any more. It's just being stored. It's a large grill, as big as my oven. I'm going to gut it except for the burners, and turn it into my Powdercoating oven. It should be sweet. :-) BG

Hmmm, Toxic gases? hehe. Thanks for the warning. Mebbe I should powdercoat in my gas-grill outside then. ;-) BG

Hey, At my sears they had about 20 colors. Black, satin black, red, greens, blues... some transparent colors... But the powders are cheap at easy to get by mail order... Lots of places on the net sell it by the half pound. I ordered up a cool glitter-flake red from Eastwood Company. I've got an old set of aluminum renthal bars that were annodized... The annodizing is faded... So I'm gonna PC them this crazy glittery red and see how they turn out. As far as the warranty goes... Sears gives it a 1 year warranty... However... They offered me a 2 year, full replacement warranty at the cash register for 20 bucks... They said... If it breaks... Bring it back and we'll give you a new one... I decided not to get the extra warranty, but it might end up being worth it. BG

Hey, I saw at my local sears, a craftsman electric powdercoating system. It's for home use. I thought, for $150.00 let me give it a shot and see if it works. I Hate dropping my parts off at the powdercoater... Esepcially little stuff... It's a pain in the neck... Takes 2 days... So I thought this would be nice to have for smaller things... So I tried it out today. I powdercoated a set of fender brackets, bright red. It was easy as heck to do, and it came out as perfect as my professionally PC'd parts. The outcome was tremendous. I coated the stuff right in my garage and I baked it right in my oven. There is NO odor at all when it's baking. It's no problem to hang in the oven right in the kitchen -- Very cool! So on a scale from 1-10 for satisfaction... I give this setup a 9.5. My only complaint would be that it seems to be constructed out of some pretty light plastic, and I don't know how it is going to hold up over the years. BG

2bz2p... What an awesome job... You get to ride the rails man... Power a locomotive... I'd love to do that some time. It's fun reading this post. There are alot of interesting jobs people do... And very diversified... All sorts of trades, fields, experts... novices... You name it... Very cool... Enjoyable to read. Keep 'em coming. BG