sheerider11

First nice saturday I had off and one of the very few that I'm gonna have off. I figured I'll take the banshee out as I've been having problems since i got it together so I had it all figured out for today. I'm out all day tearing it up having a blast. Well long story short. My trans took a dump. I just got the motor out so i need to split the cases to see whats up. I hate how my friends 100% stock bike can take a beating all day long and mine craps out if I look at it to hard! just had to vent. Sorry if anyone gets pissed off at me.

I have a fresh set of 20cc Chariot stock domes that I'll trade for a set of 20cc stroker cut domes. If I have to I'll add a little cash on top. THEY MUST BE FOR MY CHARIOT COOLHEAD. I know Prodesign fits but I'm not sure what else. call or text me for pics and to get the ball rolling as I need this asap. 7324064991. My name is Rob.

OEM stuff is really good shit. Where did you find the after market one?

I have the pro design. I just wish I had the mull gear tho like mentioned before. I'm sure there's no difference really. I would just rather the mull gear then the stock plastic one.

I heard the T5 were better then the PC for ported engines.

They line up off the roller underneath. I think that's what your asking about.

You heard its not easy?? That wasn't on this site.

Porting on the jugs. The plate kind of mimics getting your ports raised by doing real porting. I had my cases port matched to the jugs and the jugs ported for my 4 mil.

It's coming from east coast atv. There pretty cool there. Some people doing like vitos tho. Its a 110 rod. So that's a short rod. I have the same crank. People say it puts more side load on the piston and wears faster. I have yet to see proof. I haven't had any problems with that crank yet so I'll approve of it as of now.

Better then laquer thinner, its airplane grade remover. And I think raw metal looks bad ass. Just have to clear or so it doesn't rust.

Alright thanks guys. Anyone have input on what and why this needle or that needle is better?

Alright thanks. So it's an all around richer needle. Now my next question is, how can I tell what I have? also where can I find the info so I can just check myself so I can see what the difference is between all the needles.

That's not gonna happen here. If you type correctly people will take you more serious. Not if you type like a 12 year old girl.

So what's the difference. Is it the pitch of the taper? How high and low the notches go? Anything will help.

What's the benefit of having that, and how can I tell if it's in my carbs. 34 pj

I heard the T3's were just as good as T5's. Or maybe it was a different set of toomeys that are pretty decent.

what answer are you expecting to get on a banshee forum?

That's what I've been trying to figure out this whole time. I'll buy it the way it sits.

Yeah I really wish I would of done that as well. But why don't you ask Kevin what he recommends. Its not like its someone you just have doing it and need input. He does this for a living if you tell him you want to Damn near fly he'll tell you what to do.

Factory gearing is a pretty good universal set up.

Well there you go no heat. Why don't you call dura blue and just ask. Don't say you want to do it your self but just ask what the process is. I doubt its some secret there keeping

If you have access to a decent shop then I'm sure heat and pressure will do the trick. You just need a way to spin it true and have a dial indicator to measure the bend.

We have a wanted section for a reason.

Wanted section.

Or photo bucket.