sheerider11

Its a give and take. You want top speed or a quick acceleration? Its not that its good for wheelies its that it's a quick acceleration. If you want to go faster its gonna be a slower acceleration. Stock is a good ratio. Are you building a drag bike or a land speed record bike?

K&N you actually have to run kind of dirty. I can't remember where but it was on here that someone one said that's how they work better. I personally like my uni pods. With the outer wear and oil if I do happen to splash a little water on them it beads up and rolls off. K&N absorbs that water.

2 guys I think in North Jersey wanted 4 g's for100% stock bikes. Are they high?

I have have the motion pro puller. Cost me14 bucks at the dealership. Remove the nut reverse thread it in and tighten til the fly wheel pops off. Doing use anything else.

I don't like motor oil for the trans. I feel like the clutch slips to much. They say no trans fluid with friction modifiers. This is a preference thing that has been discussed a million times. Try searching and see what has the most votes.

Timing plate is a good one. Is that what you mean by adjustable stator? Port like you said. You should really have the crank checked out or if you want you can go 4 mil. Coolhead with some smaller domes. You can get the stock head shaved. Possibilities are pretty much endless. It all depends on what type of riding you do. But thus list can really go on all day.

Someone got a sick ass bike. Hope you got what it was worth.

Then you should be okay. Just really check the crank, I've gotten sealant on the crank because it comes really close to the case halves. But I just made sure I could spin everything every few hours to make sure I didn't get it on anything important.

Can you spin everything free?

I love my JDS rotor. That thing is tough as shit

It's a left handed drill bit and things with left handed threads that bite the screw. You drill a hole in the middle going with the left handed threads and sometimes they will bite and UN screw the bolt. If not you drill the hole and you tap in the easy out with a hammer and you can back out the screw. They come matched with the drill bit and easy out on the kit. But some times its not that easy.

Well got her all back together. I only putted up the street and made it through the gears and back home. Hopefully this time it'll hold up better this time.

You can't get it out with a easy out ?

I didn't know this either. I had type F on there and I've heard allot of people recommend it. But now I don't know what to believe.

Timing chain?!?!

So type F is no good? This was a bone stock trans. I did have type F in there. What happened was that I missed a shift and that was that. I only had second and neutral. So when I took the clutch cover off I couldn't see anything so I split the cases. I noticed that that selector was stuck. I finally got it pressed out and could see 2 very distinct weld marks.

Alright perfect. Thanks guys.

No body has had this problem or heard of someone having this problem??

Just take them some where. It can't be much for pipes.

Has anyone had the 5th gear on the out put shaft weld itself in place so it can't slide and select a gear?

I'm all about my ported cylinders for my 4 mil. Its a awesome set up for the tails. You might be better with a several depended on how open and straight the trails are. But I think I have just the right amount for my trails and that little bit extra for more open stuff.

I called east coast, they said they need the motor so they can check squish and get it set up perfect. Any one have input on the quality of the work there?

Who can cut my domes for my 4 mil??

Haha that made me feel better. You won't be the prettiest guy at the Justin Bieber concert. What the fuck?? I want to offer him 350.

I KNOW! It pisses me off so bad! But I found the problem. For some reason one on the sets of gears doesn't slide on the shaft to select the gears.