sheerider11

Not much really.

Way nicer set up then my bike.

If your lucky you can get it out. It seems you welded your shit. Like stated, look up a pancake bearing or a ceramic ball. But more then likely your gonna have to split the cases and pull the trans out. Once you do that you can work on the actuator and bearing

you want to swap you front and rears for sandstar front and rears?

PM sent

Need stock arms and rods. Tight joints and no ripped boots

Poop?

Mines routed to the pipe so I know if it starts to over heat. But basically routed to the ground

I feel like that would be to big of an area for the piston to basically fall into. Imagine you had a little to much piston to wall clearance. I feel like the bottom could catch in there. I also feel like the intake and exhaust both being that open, the piston could damn near get cocked into both ports

holy shit!!! I didn't see this! Dude are you for real?

Not likely, but like I've said nothing's impossible. You see more broken skirts from that. Rattle is how it's spelt. A snagged ring will rip it out. I'm on my phone so it's hard to see it clearly. Is there any part left of it? Could it have been left out on the last rebuild?

Yeah. There is a little hanger about a inch long I'll try to find a pic of one. Get rid of your tors

Stop going to that dealer. I have that hose routed to the ground. Don't need it. Aftermarket covers don't even come with that breather. The one on the back is routed to the ground as well.

Anything is possible. But if you don't want to then don't. But do not come on here asking why your crank blew up,you hear a rattling sound, your crank seal is leaking after you do this top end.

thank you. Now you were just in the wrong spot. Like Nyuk said. We ride there. It's nothing great, but we have to make do with what we got

Also the perfect time to weld your crank

Maybe out the exhaust, maybe down in the crankcase.

F the yfz conversion. Just get some works and arms built for the banshee

Bump

I have a Vito's 110 4 mil crank. Have quite a few hours on it. This is the updated crank with the polished rods. At my builders, still in my motor. If you have any questions PM me and I will try to give as much info as possible. If it needs to be trued I will take care of that and it will be 300 plus shipping from Jeff at fast if he must true and re weld it Only pics I have as of now

I have the race logic templates. I used them on my girlfriends cylinders. My personal cylinders are professionally ported. Now, the templates are okay. They are good for a basic port that will get you a few HP. Don't expect your shoulders to be ripped out. With the templates they only give you a intake and exhaust. The intake I feel is a little extreme with how narrow they make the bridge. The exhaust is a good design, it raises the exhaust a very little bit and widens it. They don't touch the transfers. This is where a little studying comes into play. A lot of power can be made in the transfers. You can also lose a lot in the transfers. I will not tell you how I did the transfers. I put in my research time and a lot of it. I barley got to ride the bike but when it comes up in 4th and I have to slam the rear brake I think it'll do pretty good. Now go do research and make sure your fully committed to doing this porting. It's not a few hours and a few beers type of job.

East coast atv

What???

I'll be the first to tell you this are really clean. Me and nasty have been going back and forth on if these should go on my bike. They are in damn good shape and I would have no problem running them on my bike