blowit

I also stated that the CDI is fine without the R plug but what I should have stated is there was no difference in power quality with or without the R plugs. With all those transients, it would just seem a matter of time before a DC buss was overloaded and started leaking AC in the CDI. Whether the R will or will not detour a misfire is something we did not test for. Our objective at the time was to test power quality at all operating loads and rpms.

I am not sure what question it is you are refering, but after reading what I wrote, I would say that I in no way endorse the non resistor plugs. They are for lawn mowers. All I am saying is when we did our testing, we did expect to see a large difference in back talk from the plug, but we did not see it and tested 4 bikes. You would sure think that the R plugs should be a must and there is always a possibility that we missed something in testing but we do not call out R plugs for our shifters only because after we got the data, we built a hell for stout power supply for our circuit. We do not need failures. The banshee power is so irratic, it's hard to filter, even for testing. OUR DAQ system had to be updated just to help decipher the data. We knew the constant loss ignitions would be tough. The electric start machines are surprisingly clean. I will say this, that banshee CDI may last a lifetime if it had cleaner power.

And I can tell you my twin brother is a double E and we hooked labview to a banshee just to look at the ripple voltage because we offer an electronic shift kit for the banshee. I am personally high voltage certified. I am not a DA in the electronics field nor is it my intent to offend. I offered that info from an honest test data prospective and I would not throw that out unknowingly. In our testing, the resistor plug did not show any difference in line harmonics or transients. I can tell you the banshee power output is damn dirty. Transient spikes on that bike scare me but that CDI survives none the less. I would say Dyna is wanting insurance on that deal. I will investigate this a little though because you have me thinking but rest assured, I am NOT electronics illiterate. Do you design and build PCBs from scratch?? Maybe you do. Brandon

Right on. The CDI is not affected by the lack of the resistor code but injection systems PWM outputs can be affected but I have personally never seen it. The CDI is very well protected with caps to smooth odd frequencies. I can guarantee a difference in car stereos though when running non resistor plugs.

It's pretty cocky to have 02 fuel. Hell, that is what you are doing with NOS without the hassle. I never did try the oxygenation trick, enlighten me. How are you to know what content of O2 you have and when it depletes? This can have a major affect on jetting. I am kind of a Methyl Alky freak anyway. Cheaper and faster. Now if I could stabilize the slight acidity and hygroscopic properties, I would be the man. Brandon

Like fire head said, all fuels will have additives. The simplest answer is this; pump fuels have additives to preserve the fuel, stabilize the fuel, and help meet EPA guidelines first. Race fuel have no additives that are not required for either preserving the fuel, or making it more powerful. By oxygenating the fuel you are adding HP in fluid form basically. Race fuel cos have found that you can only get so much O2 in fuel before it just leaks out. VP has been playing with super oxygenated fuels for racing and they were even outlawed for MX because it was offering an unfair advantage. Problem was the shelf life of the fuel was minimal. Bottom line, additives in the two types of fuels have totally different objectives. Brandon

That conversion is "americanized" and assumes RON+MON/2 methods. Octane boosters are like taking a fire extinguisher to a bond fire party. you want a nice controlled burn, not put the fire out and that is kinda what they do, or slow it way down anyway. Needless to say, no "super booster" in my parts shelves. Brandon

Firehead, I have never seen a piston with detonation damage in a random fashion like this. I am sure you will tell me otherwise but I think he done told us it was FOD though. I would run it as well. Damage probably occurred in the first 5 seconds of it's life. Damage is done, move on. Just hope it did not get in the crank bearings and shorten their life. B

Did you kill your engine before the rebuild and forget to clean out the pipes??? That'l Do'r Brandon

K, if you can offer a MUCH closer pic of the piston or tell me if the pits are elevated on the edges around the pit? Are the pit centers shiny or very dull? I need to know the motor and head setup too. I am leaning on pre-ignition and not detonation. The random pattern would be WAY before TDC. Either that or you threw a hand full of sand in it. Also inspect the head for damage. If it is FOD, it will have damage in the head as well. If you are running wimpy fuel in a tuned up banshee, there you go. Brandon

Hey, I am just wondering who is doing the tranny upgrades that you know of? We are just now testing some new products to help the banshee shift better. We really never did the market research on this so just curious. Thanks Brandon

http://www.prestone.com/carcare/faq.php#q7 Here you go. I just grabbed the first one I saw for octane boosters. This is direct from the Prestone website. If you need more technical data, I am sure it is all over the web somewhere. Trust me, octane boosters are something, like static phase converters, that should be uninvented because it can be a scam if you don;t understand the conversions. Octane points and numbers = not the same Brandon Mull Engineering

Well I am 100% american. I am simply stating for those that forget that we get time to play with ATVs and eat what we want. I am from German decent thus I have to lean hard on "German" engineering!!!! Germans know how to do the numbers. B

Just something you should know about octane boosters. They all say on the bottle how many "points" it will boost your octane right? The crappy thing is there are 10 octane points in 1 octane number. This means that if you have 94 octane fuel and you go spend some 5-7 bucks on a "super booster" that will give you an AMAZING 7 points of boost. Your fuel is now a whoping 94.7 octane. I would not waste the money plus, well, search from a week or so ago on why race fuels are just better any day than pump fuels. Octane boosters will never remove all the additives in you fuel. As we always say here " Don't feed a race horse snickers bars and expect to win". Your banshee is a full bread race bike, feed it what it needs. Brandon Mull Engineering

K, I did not catch the smokey part. Sounds more like a crank seal. Pull the RH pipe and if it is very oily and smells like burnt motor oil, learn about crank seals but don;t be surprised if the case haves are leaking. B

When you say cleaned the carbs, how far did you go? If you do not visually inspect the jet passages and completely break them down, you are wasting your time. Sounds like either carb balance, Your idle jet is clogged on the RH side, or your choke crossover hose is not on. Do me this one- Fire the bike and apply a little choke and see if that side tries to lite up. This will be a sign of a lack of fuel and proceed with the carb cleaning and tuning. B

I would agree that americans don;t know how good they have it.

Typically in the states, our fuels are calculated RON+MON/2. The RON is generally substantially higher than the MON number. This is the reason for the average of the two in that no one has ever decided which was actually better or correct. 5% Ethyl is fine. About 20% is where you will start to have side effects of the hygroscopic fuel and you would need to flush your fuel system everytime you ride. You will not have problems with 5% and many fuels in the US already have 5% and it is not even stated at the pump. I would expect your 100 RON fuel to come out to about our 93 octane fuel in the US once you derate it with the MON number. Brandon

There again Firehead, I was generalizing in that "most" boring heads will indicate at .001. So just how much did you pay for that boring head? As much as it would cost to buy a crank or close to. We have them and rarely use them. TOO slow. we both know, a new tool holder, precision head, carbide bar, are all a must to repeat a hole but we know better than to mess around with a bore head because a grinder can just do it much faster and more accurate. Now I am not tryin to be rude at all but more or less curious as to your profession in which you can or need to actually hold a 1 micron tolerance with a bore head? It is one thing to make a hole within 1 micron but another to do it in a repeatable fashion. One small chip in the tool holder during ATC, and you now have substantial runout in the bore head which will make a nice, oversized hole. I guess all I am saying is 1 micron is tough stuff, period.

The flywheel is a rarity. I would start by checking resistance values on the source coil and swapping the cdi with your buddy. The pulse generator is rarely a problem by design.

I really figured that someone would have chimed in that you need an ID grinder to do this correctly. We build our own stroker cranks and the true position of those journal bores must be tight!! .0005 unless you want it to vibrate apart and want it to true in at all. Truing the crank is one thing, locating the journals, not easy and we have jigs to do it. We even buy the cranks at times. I would say it can be done several ways as long as severe amounts of time are taken to ensure accuracy. The bore head may work but they have big issues with the spring passes in steel and making them repeat to the tight tolerance needed may not work so well. They can remove .0005 by accident. Typical bore heads are graduated to .001 offset meaning .002 in the diameter. Trying to hold .0005 in steel, all the way through the bore, CNC is a minimum because feeds/speeds must maintain constant to repeat the cycle for the next web if you get it right. My only advice, if someone dives in, consider boring the holes to -.001 and have them ID ground to spec. You would need to take the pins for verification because you never go that precise and not consider temperature and type of measuring tool used. Their methods will be much better for an accurate fit. Now why does this have to be so perfect since you are welding it? Well, the crank web was never engineered for a +10mm or even +14mm. These forces can actually take a welded crank apart. Rod speed is way up there thus reducing engine life by about 60% anyway. By holding tight interference fits, you can reduce the chance of a crank breaking the welds and separating. Hope that helps. I am not trying to detour, only inform on this. It is tricky, this the reason most mom and pop shops don't do there own crank stroking. Now THAT just sounds perverse. B

Our pricing is a bargain compared to what you get in the industry. Most shops will just plane or deck the head leaving a key area dangerously thin. In terms of reliability, you just don't get any more reliable than the stock setup with the steel gasket. O-rings just don't hold a candle to a good copper or steel gasket. By trying to get more pop out of a lazy engine, you might be working to end it's life even sooner! Trust me, if it is so lazy that comp is falling off, the next thing to happen is a broken piston skirt so there goes 4-6 bills in a new crank and mybe some new cylinders. However, we call this "justification for modification". The best advice I could give is don't ride it unit you either take it apart and mic it or fix it right. JMO.

Air baby! use compressed air or if you are trashing them, just use a razor, slit them, and be done with it. Air is the only way to fly on installation though. B

You might take a look here. www.mullengineering.com Not to plug too much for our heads but we have done a lot of research in what works and we can get as high as 210psi static compression out of a stocker with stock porting at sea level. Your numbers do sound a bit low so I am wondering what gauge you are using. You could have a lazy top end.

Now that is just a funny read. I really have no idea either but something about 6th gear WFO all day or something. Add more oil to the mixture and richen the AFR. Bikes that need to run WFO condition for miles need twice the oil as trail machines. If it leans out, squeek! The banshee CAN do it much better than singles but I would want everything trued to a nats ass to keep it from self destructing. Brandon