blowit

Could have done a number of things but start but doing resistance checks on all the coils. Remove the LH engine cover and inspect for sheared flywheel key and damaged pulse coil. Too many things could have happened. Just start the search. Brandon

That depends on what all is installed on the crank ends. If the flywheel and PTO gear are on and the PTO is driving the clutch basket, you bet it will have some resistance. The flywheel will feel weird because if the magnetic flux. Hard spots in rotation at 180 degrees from each other. If not, You may have a separating crank and the webs are contacting the cases. Find the cause. It should spin nice a free by itself. Your intuition of it not feeling right are probably on. Go with your instinct. Brandon

Yeah, but I thought this engine was new? Stuck rings would do it but if it is new, they should NOT be sticking at all. Did you by chance " port" these cylinders? Please check your squish clearance with a piece of solder and lets start there. I know this problem is going to be something simple. Brandon

Yep, it does. When you say your out of tolerance, what is out of tolerance? What does your bore measure? what does your piston measure? what should the piston and bore measure? These are all questions you will have to answer to know if you can drop in 60 overs. ball honing "might" remove .0002 on a good day so that is not much. Yes, your entire piston is a timing component on a two stroke. The whole piston needs to stay in spec. I mentioned piston slap earlier, or you can ride it until it breaks a skirt and then rebuild it. I cannot verify the condition of the engine so what I say is just advise at best. Have someone measure it if you don;t have the tools. Brandon

We do not recommend them because of port timing problems. Custom head work is preferred for optimum performance. We offer stock head mods or NOSS builds the custom domes for the stroker. Brandon

Measurements and inspection of bore. If the bore "looks" perfect, then proceed to measure the bore comparing only to the size of piston you have. IE, 64.50mm and so on. Your piston will never measure the bore size, you must go from the numbers on the top. Most Wiseco pistons will hold a .0002" tolerance. example, pistons says 64.75mm, you measure your bore and have .0005 of taper and .0000 oval and bore measures 64.74mm, you can just add pistons and be back to brand new again. Keep in mind, you NEED to know what you are doing when inspecting and adjusting bores. It may be smarter for some to just have this service performed. Brandon

I am real confused as to what the shaft will do for you. If you are having only one particular gear change problem like 2-3 upshift, that points to a trans problem. Specifically a bent shift fork that will tend to bind and not slide free on the fork shaft. Banshees are tough shifting bikes and if you are just having problems shifting then shift mods or clutch work may help you. Brandon

205 sounds even a bit low for an MX motor. We generally make around 250psi static with our MX porting. Makes me wonder how it is ported. Yeah you are in race fuel territory to be safe. The bike should last a long time with those compression numbers. have fun. Brandon

My biggest concerns are state of tune on that motor and traction. Tires are VERY over looked by Banshee owners and they win races on dirt tracks. Double strokes need more work that thumpers in the traction department. Banshees love to spin the tires and that does not win races. You FMFs are killing you as well. Reach for some better pipes some day. For now, work on your suspension, tires, tire pressure, engine tune, and riding skill. The bike can do it if tuned properly. Brandon

NO NO, guess when I said honing, I should have said deglazing and crosshatching. You would not size the bore with the ball hone, only clean it up. You would install fresh .060 over pistons. You are running Al on Cast Fe sleeves so the pistons will wear first. Simply measure it. I am wanting to put my foot in my mouth about now because if you don't understand how to properly mic a bore and piston, you can get yourself in trouble. Trust me, most machine shops don't even do it right. We actually have an excel worksheet to do our numbers for taper and oval and compare to piston data. Not hard at all but has to be measured correctly. Please just measure the bore at top, mid, and bottom on the X and Y axis and post the numbers and I will help you. Brandon

Just to answer your last question, yes, if you rev the engine WFO with the clutch in, you can weld the ball right where you sit. The rod is in no way coupled to the clutch basket. You should just have a exploratory day and take it apart and it will all make perfect sense. Brandon

You are very close in your understanding. The problems lay in the fact that the push rod, at the point of eccentric actuation, is not buffered for rotation and was design for stationary operation. What I am saying is the clutch lever on top of the case that forces the rod over does not rotate. When the lever is actuated, friction is induced and causes the rod to hault any rotational motion it had from spinning with the trans axle. Obviously the other end of the rod has to rotate somewhere, somehow to maintain force with the pressure plate that is coupled to the transmission. This is where the "ball" comes in. This is the part that uncouples power from the rotation of the pressure plate and the stationary tendencies of the opposite end of the rod at the actuator lever. The faster the trans is spinning, the more rotational difference there is and the more rpms the "ball" gets to decipher. The ball just cannot handle the axial frictional forces under high rpms due to a lack of lubing in that area. As the ball heats it wants to gauld which is a tendency of two similar metals wanting to weld to each other. The fix for years has been to use a ceramic ball in plate of the steel to create dissimilar material interaction which would reduce gauling tendencies. Now a days a pancake bearing is substituted that can better handle the axial forces without over heating. Hopefully this helps. Brandon Another thing worth noting is heavy clutch springs amplify this problem.

I am not real sure you even have a clutch problem there. Sounds more like a tranny problem or a clutch disengagement problem. If you have grooves worn in the basket or inner drive hub, it will cause poor shifting because the clutch wants to stay engaged. Let me know what your are dealing with. There are no" secrets" to clutch adjusting. It is a very simple contraption but if you don't get enough disengagement when clutching, shifting will be tough. Brandon

Well, you mic'd your pistons before and they were .002 out of spec, you ran them some more, and want you know if you should do a top end? The answer is YEP. Your compression test will not tell you squat about piston skirt clearance. Yes, you can have an engine totally worn out and still make good on a comp tester. Take it apart. By the way, boring is NOT always needed. We see this a bunch when people cannot measure a bore (even a technician) correctly, so they bore to the next size. Unless there is a problem with the bore (taper, oval, surface damage, etc), you generally can ball hone it and put it back to bed with new pumpers. Brandon

Keep me posted on this one. I am curious as to what you find. Brandon

Yep, should not be going through plugs. You have something tuning to do. Brandon

Now that sounds more like carb issues than ignition. Sounds like possibly carb balance is off or some sticking cables or slides. Not sure of all your problems though. Brandon

Yeah the porceilin iinsulator around the conductor of a plug is very hard and not very resistive to shock loads. A good drop on the ground can do it. This will cause current leakage to an alternate ground, generally through the plug housing and right to the head. This can be very hard to detect because your multi meter will not find it and even putting low voltage to it will not find it. You simply have to use a high voltage plug tester to find it or replace the plug in question. The tester will induce several thousand volts to the plug and measure the spark in distance. The higher the voltage, the more insulation you need to hold back current leakage. You never know if your plug was dropped by the parts guy before you got it. Good point on that one. Brandon

Well I guess the first thing I would want to know is if you have the TORS goods still in? If so, simply unplug them and check for spark. After that, simply check the resistance in the stator ignition side coil, and the ignition coil. Pull those darn plug caps if the coil does not check out. They like to come lose over time. I would like to know what it has done in the past to determine a coil or CDI problem but most coil issues get worse with heat or don;t work at all. If yours is very intermittent, you may simply have a wire coming lose somewhere. watch those blade connectors on the ignition coil. I caught one like this a while back and someone had "spliced" some wiring around the steering stem. When the clutch was in, it killed it. This just happened to be because the cable was laced with the harness and pulled the wires apart when the clutch was in. Sometimes you have to look for a pattern in the failures to find the source.

Well leaving the throttle closed really won't affect the pressure much, just how long it takes to get there. If you kicked until it would not go higher, you have valid numbers from that gauge and, right or wrong, a 50psi variance is too much. We tear our customers down at 7-10lb variance here. You need to know what is going on and a new bore or set of pistons is likely in your future. No biggy, simple to do. Grab a manual and a 6 pack (or a case if needed) and enjoy. Brandon

We are looking for stock banshee heads. We pay 20 dollars shipped to us. We offer 15 dollars shipped for ones with light pitting. We require heads with no mods or just a light decking. If you have one or even 10 of them, we need a pic of each head, bottom and top, and we will pay via paypal. We generally will not buy anything older than 98 but if yours looks nice, send us a pic. We prefer to buy in bulk. Thanks Brandon

Depending on what clutch you installed, you could have some clutch chatter. The chatter can come from worn basket cushions, or the plates themselves. If pulling the clutch in or revving the bike a bit stops the rattle, you are probably fine to ride. You may also have a kick gear index clip that is broke or not positioned right. This cal cause the kick gear to walk forward and touch the basket gear. Not cool on that one. Brandon

Oh yeah! With that much variance, you have a top end problem for sure. A lack of compression will also fail to draw fuel into the engine. Some people ask twice when they bring er in for a carb tune and we tell them the top end is shot. You gotta have compression to bring fuel into the engine. Pull it down and take a look. Just so I cover my ass, I should have said you must have good "ring seal". I guess you can have a blown head gasket that would cause this too but with a lack of fuel to the engine, that points right at top end. Brandon

I will see if I can find one of our dyno sheet with just the timing work. We lost some data a while back and not sure if that file was one of them. Brandon