blowit

Yes, a TORS system can be adapted to any carb given the right skills. It would not be as simple as screwing on carb tops though. A complete rework of the limit switches would be required. The TORS system is a very good idea by design but I have no doubt it was introduced because of carb slide failures in earlier year models. I don't think the TORS system failures are near as common as people think. Carb sync, cable tension, and lever recoil, are all factors that can cause TORS system failures. The system is very simple but requires all switching to work in unison. If you have safety reasons for keeping the TORS, go for it. It will not affect performance and can help keep you out of the trees. Most of us run without due to simplicity. Wiring does not scare us but that is just one more thing to be tuned. Hope that helps. If you are interested in adapting your new carbs, I might be able to make some suggestions. Brandon

What I want to know is, was there a schrader valve at the end of your cheap tester? The part that screwed right in the head? I am thinking that was the problem. Pressure gauges are generally pretty accurate. The problem with many of the testers is not the gauge but the valving 125psi with a head mod is low if you have stock porting. Smoking on a two stroke is normal. Brandon

Sounds like its time to open the side cover and find out. Noises and lack of cooling are very good reasons to take a look. Brandon

I would say if you have rules out the ignition coil, that sure sounds like a CDI problem. Just swap with someone and try it. You will not damage your buddies if something else is wrong. As stated above, check the plug gap. Set it at .020 and see if it changes, if not set it back and look elsewhere. Brandon

Not real sure what adjustment you are talking about. The shifter really does not have adjustment to it. Are you maybe talking about the clutch? You mentioned the shift star so I am just thinking about what you might be talking about. Brandon

I will assume you are talking about the spark plug leads. This means your coil is most likely good and your problem lies in the wires or caps. The caps just screw on so unscrew both and cut .250in off the ends and reterminate. This should get you going. Brandon

NO, you will need a head mod or custom domes for a billet head and porting needs to be looked at if the cylinders are ported. If stock, you will be fine. If you are looking for a fast fix, just go back with a stocker. Brandon

We have one for 99 bucks that will work great for your setup. There should be no need for a lockup on that engine setup. I am surprised at how fast you killed a clutch though. Brandon

No, you can get away with stock replacement stuff. The billets will keep this from happening though. If you are strapped, no biggy on just going back with stock gear. You may have just had a weak spot in the casting. Probably just one of those "lucky" things. Brandon

Damn, I was going to say FOD killed your seal but got here too late. Actually most of the bike we get with bad RH seals are because of failed RH crank bearings that cut up the seal. Your case is "special". The reason you did not kill your gears is because all that FOD is Aluminum and the gears are case hardened steel. I would be more worried about bearings at this point. Sometimes they just fail but clutch chatter will do it. Did you by chance grind on your basket to smooth the grooves in it? We se this a bunch and this is the EXACT outcome of it. What happens is plates don't get loaded equally, one breaks, pieces lodge in the basket sideways and it all crumbles. We call this justification for modification. Time for some billet!! Brandon

One thing to remember is, because of that dumb idea of the plastic impeller drive gear, if the water pump bearings start going south, that gear will shear right off and you will totally lose cooling. Make sure the bearings are in good condition. Brandon

The upgraded stator should be complimented with a regulator that is capable of dissipating all the energy produced my the light coil. The reason is because when the lights are not on and bike is running, there is extra power that is being dissipated by the regulator. The stocker can handle it most of the time but it is cheap insurance to install an upgraded regulator. You do NOT need anything special for a reg and you can get a reg at any parts store. Generally rated in watts. 19 bucks would be worth just getting when you get the stator. You do not need to rectify the power. The rectifier with convert your AC power into DC. That would only be needed for a battery charging sytem or other DC sensitive circuits. Light bulbs are resistive loads and as a general rule, do not care whether power is AC or DC. However the voltage level IS important. What can happen with the stock reg is it will burn up while riding without lights and as soon as you hit the light switch, all the lights will blow because the reg is toast and will no longer regulate voltage. Just for comparison, the stock lights are also typical Halogen filled bulbs running off AC power, that is exactly the same type of bulb you will have in the Hella lights. Now HID is another deal. Brandon

I would be more concerned with that piston clearance. I think you stated like .040 clearance and you should be .0025-.0035 when measured properly. We try to hold ring gap down because it affects bottom end performance. However, anything over about 6K rpm and you can pretty much remove the second ring because the piston speed is fast enough to pump up effectively. I would try to hold that ring gap to manufacturer spec which should be .012 for a stock bore piston. We would replace rings with a .025 gap! That is just too much. Brandon

Before I popped any more lights, I would probe your lighting system with a multi meter set on AC Volts and watch for regulation of voltage. Those stock regs are not very precise so voltage can range from 13.5-15.0. Rev the bike without the lights installed and your voltage should maintain a voltage after about 2K rpm. If it continues to climb with rpm, your regulator circuit is not functioning. Yes, that is a one wire wonder. One leg input and chassis grounded. Make sure it is tight because when they come loose from the chassis, lights start blowing. Good luck Brandon

You should not be into race fuel territory with that combination. I too would want to check jetting and static compression. Lean motors will detonate. If possible and if you have enough time on the plugs, post a closeup of your plugs. A sure sign of detonation is fine metallic specs on the plug which it metal transfer from the piston. I am not convinced that you are detonating just yet. It is a good test though to run a small amount of race fuel just to test for a sound change in the motor. Obvious detonation is hard to miss. Let is know. Brandon

Sounds like clutch noise to me. If you like tearing it down, might as well do it again and check the basket cushions and basket fingers for wear. You can also remove the clutch all together and fire it up for testing. The clutch generally has some noise. If it gets a bit quieter when the engine is revved, that is likely the case. brandon

That white smoke is vaporized fuel and nothing to worry about. Sounds like you have a short in the harness or the rev limit circuit is coming in. There is a limit that closes when the park brake is on. If you have not removed that switch, it is on the handle bars at the clutch pirch. If that is not it, you need to run the bike at high idle and start jiggling wires, if there has been "custom" spicing in the harness, that is the very firto learn how to repeat the symptom and you should find your problem. You know I guess I would have to hear this rev limit but this could possibly the CDI. Check the simple stuff first Brandon

Yeah, thats kinda why I called out the squish check. I am thinking we have wrongs pistons here. There is just too few of things that can cause this and that head was not one of them. Like no rings on the pistons or squish is "exactly" 2mm long. Just a guess though, I am hoping for a final post to let us know. Brandon

The stock geometry of the Banshee was just wrong and in order to make it handle correctly, you move those arms up, swing up, and pegs back to move the CG back in the chassis. You would be surprised what a shortened Banshee does when the suspension is setup for it. The fact is, by moving the CG back, you are putting more weight on the rear tires and helping traction. You also have to make some changes in the caster and camber to keep it from under steering but don't knock it unless you have tried it. You would be surprised. I would say I was totally blown away by how well the stock Y450 worked for me. I was always Honda guy but the 450 handles more like the old R than the new H450. I require precise handling in my race machines and the Y450 just "fit" better for my riding style. Brandon

Sounds like you had some piston slap or someone already took too much off the intake bridge. You MUST have it to make the motor last. It offers piston support and many porters like to make them razor thin which does little for flow, only make your cylinder weak. We see that crack at the bottom of the bridge a bunch when people run pistons too long. I am afraid new cylinders or sleeves are in your future. Brandon

NOt sure how you got those Orings in there. I have never had anyone do that yet. There is not really enough room for them. Huh, well, glad to hear you are up and running. Brandon

I think you are a little off in assumptions about the banshee in technical closed coarse racing but you are right about the Banshee needing more work to be competitive. The engine is not as much of a problem as the chassis. The geometry is all wrong and stock to stock, the 450s are hands down winners. A banshee with power valve cylinders is an ass hander on the track but costs a bit to build. The RZ setup is also very hot for 350 classes. The chassis has to go on a diet of about 60lbs to start among a few other things but bubbye when you get it setup right. The Banshee is still a good racer in the right trim. I am not biased though, I raced the 250Rs for years and that is my chassis of choice. My race bike is a full Laeger alky 425 power valve stroker R making 90HP. All that with razor sharp handling, the 450s are a joke to that thing. Brandon

Did you soak your plates? If you feel resistance on the clutch lever like it is disengaging, you probably just have plates sticking together. Rev it up a bit, pull the clutch and drop a gear. This will break the plates loose. If it keeps doing it, let me know. Brandon

I did not read all posts but get the picture. Holding your own against thumpers in trails will likely take MX porting and NOT dune porting. Also, a 4mm stroker crank and 1into2 carb with 2into1 pipe will offer an insane bottom to mid hit that will be a little weak on the topend compared to drag bikes but make the bike MUCH more ridable. We have built a few of them for MX guys and DAMN they will go for the holeshot. You can make a banshee hit on the bottom. Also, we also use super high compression to help the bottom end. (250psi) I used to love to race these full race Banshees in hare scrambles. I used a modded 300ex and believe me, they were pissed and tired from trying to catch me. They had WAY more go but they took their snow skies to a swimming party. Brandon

Compliment much appreciated Fire guy. Another thing that I forgot but is always at the top of the list is the TORS system. If you have that still on your bike, you will need to bypass it by simply unplugging it and checking for spark. The TORS box is located on a frame rail just above the LH expansion chamber. Brandon