blowit

Oh yes, completely agree! I am thinking totally about the engine builders on that one and just mentioning my preference when in that mode of use! Obviously if bikes come in needing "tuning", a chassis dyno makes the most sense.

I am really not yet sure of the needs of others, whether price strictly influences the need or if there are other factors. As stated, we have some ways to reduce the cost but as you reduce cost, you reduce some of the special features. I woul honestly like to kick one out less than $10k! That might take some work though. Personally, if I have the option, I choose an engine dyno over a chassis dyno every time! It is 10X easier to make adjustments and you can literally tear an engine down on the dyno, make changes, and run again in short order. O2 sense? 4 gas? multiple tach channels? etc, etc. The electronics and software would end up as 70% of the build. Unfortunately, we cannot just provide the hardware to use with some generic software because this is a full on DAQ system with advanced filtering and tuning to ensure it is accurate. HOWEVER, I say accurate loosely because there are a LOT of fudge factors and I have never directly associated exact BMEP values with track performance. However, you see a graph, you have an idea that it produces about 90HP but you know it is fat. Lean it down and overlay that graph. Did the graph get flatter with linear improvement? Did it sign off earlier in the rpm band? What if we turn up the ignition, how did it react? I can tell you this being around dyno tuning a long time, sometimes that graph is all you need. You start leaning too much on O2, 4 gas, etc, and you can end up leaving ponies on the dyno! Why? Well, there are still a LOT of guys that try to use inertial dynos for tuning and I just don't believe in it. Why? Because they typically are only used at WOT and come up slowly. That engine might rev 10X faster on the track which can affect lots of things. With a brake system, I am able to test to a stall at anywhere from 0-100% throttle. I can run simulation for cruising loads calculated off frictional losses which might look totally different when those same settings get under load.

Yes, what we discussed was possibly a sort of "collapsing" unit or otherwise have a storage function so they don't eat up so much space. The only issues so far is we would have to rethink the typical tire roller configuration. Basically from the ground up, designing something low profile. As far as power, in designing these systems, torque is what is the most important, but yes 200HP should not be an issue. RPM is where we start looking at safety issues. I really don't like seeing Dynos flying at 200MPH. It is not necessary for tuning. Again, all just in a brainstorm moment right now.

Mostly just examining ways to make a system affordable. I don't believe people need all the creature features like some flashy PC interface. Just need to get the data. Primarily looking at safety vs costs. I have seen even the best dynos operated foolishly so..... Do agree though, unless you understand the data, it can be somewhat useless.

LOL, is there a charge account over there I can apply to? I need to fill my Christmas list.

We have done a lot of work in this sector and were lightly considering a sort of garage or small shop model so more places can test safely and get real data to help in tuning. Just curious how many here might consider something like that? Builders? Racers? What I would mostly target is a brake dyno because I believe strongly in their ability over an inertial dyno. WIth many bikes and UTVs making big power, it is not always practical to blast down the road and even then, you might not know if you made an improvement until you get to the track. I don't yet know how much we could offer one for but will examine that. From my experiences in dealerships, IMO every shop should have one because it allows testing of repairs and performance adders in a safe controlled environment. I know we cannot offer anything of real value for say 500 bucks but I know we can do it for less than 30 grand too. Thoughts? Brandon Mull Engineering

What he has indicated is "bike runs good" otherwise so I highly suspect one of my two prime suspects.

Need to verify slides are balanced or "sync'd". Also if you cleaned the carb but did not remove and specifically clean and visually inspect the pilot jet, start over. That is the source of 90% of these issues... Brandon Mull Engineering

Yeah, that is probably the one thing that pisses me off the most is USA companies buying Chinese junk and reselling it at a premium while standing behind their name. The biggest names do it. Wiseco for sure, even John Deere is doing it!!! All those John Deere gators? Guess what?? You are paying a premium for green paint and a name badge... I could not believe Deere would do that but they do it with smaller mowers, tractors, you name it.... Only stuff they build is the big stuff.

yeah the Faros probably have their place, mostly for digitizing non-critical components but i think the last one we tried had an accuracy of a couple thou which just does not cut it for most precision work. CMMs are really great tools. of course they are only as accurate as their quality controls.....mainly EXTREMELY well monitored temperature. When you get down in the microns, it is pretty easy to skew results with just the heat of your hand. I am not sure if you generated a point cloud a reconstructed in CAT. We usually do it a bit differently and use the CMM to define certain dimensions and those are hand input. Different way of doing it I suppose...

We were recently made aware of some rather unethical companies in the USA using Ebay's seller activity database that Ebay freely sells, and purchase target products for reproduction in China and distribution back on Ebay. This is not really new news but sort of a new twist. We have found countless links to prove the point. We all know it happens but it seems Ebay is intent on converting their site to say "made in China" by shafting USA manufactures. As well, a couple of these vendors are being propped up with "made in the USA" right in their listing. However, I have personally tried to make contact with these folks and is evident these products are made in China. I realize this is nothing new at all but it seems Ebay has knowingly and purposely setup a ces pool of unethical folks. It is forcing us to reexamine our exposure on Ebay. In some reading here on the forum, it seems several members have already been bit by some of these cheap products which seek to cut corners through quality control and product support. Brandon Mull Engineering

I think we should clarify a couple things. There is practically no timing differences between a LR and SR configuration! Way back in the day, the LR setup was actually a way to incorporate the Blaster pistons in a Banshee for a bigbore setup. They are nearly 5mm different in wrist pin location. So..... You have a 115mm rod with a 795 series piston which has the wrist pin relocated up 5mm to offset that. So, why the hell would I do that??? The laws of physics says that force applied in a line is directly applied but if we are not in a line, forces apply in separate vectors. What does this have to do with cranks? The rod angle! A perfect engine would NOT have any rod angle, the force applied to the piston from combustion would always push in a nice straight line but that does not happen. The LR helps to reduce this angle thus applying more force to the crank and less to the side of the piston and cylinder wall and also reduces max angle which is a function of rod speed and max rpm potential. So.... I would not base much of this build on selecting the short or long rod setup but I feel the LR setup is a better choice though not a radical difference. Lets just not get too hung up on LR and SR. This has NOTHING to do with the stroke of the engine at all!

If you are referring to height as in BTC, TDC, there is no practical difference BUT the rod angle changes the game slightly. The higher the rod angle in degrees of rotation, the higher the delta angle. Glanced at the calcs and about .400*. I don't think I would get my panties in bunch about it.

Yes, it will run but I would question why you would want to do that. Basically if the cylinders were ported right, they will have the port floors lowered 2mm so you will not have a nice transition at BDC. Not the end of the world though. The transfer duration will actually be pretty mild for a stock stroke so no worry there. The long rod has only a small effect on port timing. Remember that the longer rod is offset by the change in wrist pin location on the 795 series piston so the BDC and TDC heights are the same. The rod angle changes so that does affect the porting a small amount. Brandon Mull Engineering

Looking for some cheap parts for mockup only. Don't care if there is a hole in the cases. Would prefer a complete bottom end but mostly need cases. Would prefer local due to shipping. wichita,ks. May also swap some of our parts for the exchange.

Please excuse my outburst..... long day I think!

Deleted, I sounded like an asshole...

The main thing that make diesel incompatible for a gasoline engine is a gas engine is spark ignition and the fuel needs to resist pre-ignition (auto ignition due to compression and heat) until the spark plug ignites it. This resistance is termed the "octane" value. Diesel fuel octane value is VERY low which is why diesel can only be added to the combustion cycle right when you want it to burn thus it is termed a "compression ignition engine". The fuel ignites as soon as it is delivered inside the combustion chamber. If you put diesel in a gas engine, you get some nasty auto-ignition which can kill it good and fast. Diesel fuel is actually a refined oil so it has natural lubricating properties. This property is exploited in diesels by lubricating the high pressure fuel pumps. If you put gasoline in a diesel, not only can you cause injector damage, you can kill the injection pump that is lubed by the diesel fuel. LSD and ULSD have been an issue for older diesels. This is a referrence the the Sulfur content in PPM in the fuel. Sulfur is a nice round molecule that adds lubrication. Without this Sulfur in pumps that need it, it can cause premature failure. As far as RPM of a diesel, this has more to do with the design of the engine built for the higher compression and the higher carbon content that needs more burn duration thus longer stroke engines that just cannot run high RPM. However, smarter component design is pushing the limits every day but the whole idea of diesel is to exploit the long burn duration of the fuel to get a leak torque value at a very low RPM thus reduced engine wear. Brandon Mull Engineering

You will want to use factory clearances for these pistons. There is no reason to set them up any looser. However, it is always important to run an engine in AND ALWAYS warm up an engine before reaming it. See it all the time where a guy fires up and rips, then cold seizes the engine and blames the clearances. Remember that a new engine will run HOTTER until run in good. This is due to extra friction of the new piston and bore. This is why you need to heat cycle the engine. If memory serves, .0025 right from the book. Remember also that casted pistons will setup with tighter clearance than forged pistons. They have a little more density and silica as well as a little more uniform thermal expansion. Brandon Mull Engineering

I run an indicator on every flywheel. .006" TIR is a bit much but it is best to run them on a machined or turned surface. Run on the face and OD of the flywheel. Typically no more than .001" when things are dialed in right. Check for burrs or irregular key position. Can also remove key and clock flywheel different to see of it improves.

Still today, I think one of the best power bands ever is AC/DC

The timing wheel may find gross phase issues but it won't take much to be an issue! Think your process through or accuracy. IMO, indicators are the best way for this. the $5 ones from Harbor Freight will work just fine!! One of the little tools we made years ago that we still use is used the end off an old comp gauge, drilled the center for an indicator, bring piston up to highest setting, set TDC on wheel to that. works great. Also, that flywheel should be well checked for axial and radial TIR. due to the size and mass, it does not take much to be a big problem. The balance of the flywheel can be tested at any competent engine machine shop that does balancing. Put between centers and test for balance.

I did not make it through all the posts so my apology if my post is repetitive. You can check runout all day long and not fix a phasing problem!! You can achieve TIR of .0001" and still have a rattle trap if it is not phased right. There are a few ways to check phasing but none are very easy! We build some custom gauging to check and compare the TDC relative to BDC on the other cylinder. However, if you had a vibe, then swapped the crank, and go the same vibes, there might be other issues. This seems sort of complex but last straw but you can pull the side cover, pull the PTO crank gear off and fire it up. If the vibes go away, you have problems relating to the trans or clutch. Still there, the only thing if can be in the crank! Brandon Mull Engineering

I will offer some tech for the learning as I appreciate people that ask "why". Twisted pair wire is a way to keep all wires from following each other parallel the whole length of the wire. There are concerns for both inductance and EMI (electromagnetic interference). These types are wires are typically used exclusively for communications signaling with high carrier frequencies or digital data but similar tricks are used for heavy power applications like VFD motor drives where very high carrier frequencies are used and EMI can be an issue. Shielding is mostly to keep EMI out AND in. If you have signal wires touching VFD power wires, you can have issues. Shielding should block any cross communications. The shields are usually earth grounded to hold the shield at zero potential all the time. The "ignition coil" in the Banshee is indeed just another name for an isolation transformer. It is all about the number of turns over the core to determine the specific transformer step ratio. IIRC, the Banshee will see about 70VAC peak-peak from the CDI to the transformer and approx 7000V out. That would be an approx step ratio of 100:1 but I cannot remember exact numbers here. Now the resistors in plugs and caps is totally different and is targeting "back EMF" (electromagnetic field). Basically as a spark plug discharges, it has a tendency to send a return or reverse spike of energy back at the source. This spike in some instances can be higher than the operating voltage and can them be sent back through the transformer and back to the CDI. To snub this, a resistor is used in series. It is not recommended to use BOTH a resistor plug and cap!!! The Banshee uses a resistor cap so using a BR8ES plug (R=resistor) is not recommended. This will only further reduce spark energy. As a little TMI, VFD motor drives can have some nasty back EMF due to the carrier and operating frequencies. Basically EMF can build up bouncing between the driven motor and the motor drive IGBTs until the voltage of that EMF either destroys the insulation in the coil wire in the motor, or the IGBTs. This is why cable length/type are watched carefully and snubbers are common for long run applications. In short, the frequency of the CDI output to the transformer is of no concern operating at a feasible frequency limit of about 400hz. No biggy! The best thing you can do is provide properly sized wire so as not to lose any power through resistive losses. 16-18ga wire is actually plenty sufficient for this thus the factory wiring is just fine! Brandon Mull Engineering

I appreciate it!