blowit

I really don't understand your question. Maybe some pics with ID of trouble areas with a sharpie. Brandon

Search function.

I did not understand a word of that with no punctuation.

Well, is that on stock ports, mild ports, or highly modded ports? That will make all the difference of how each performs. Brandon

Where do you want the GAIN? Who does a 5mm stroke anyway? Pipes, carbs, reeds, track, budget, goal??

The coating is naturally "wetting" or "olifolic" (spelling here firehead), I can never remember the word. Anyway, it naturally absorbs and retains oils so it requires less aggressive honing thus less wear on the rings and pistons. Yes, it transfers heat better, can be built up to repair small problems or honed and bores out to another size and replated. As long as you treat it right, plating can last many (10-20) yrs of service. Brandon

:thumbsup: What he said. Nikasil uses Carbide as the hard plate and Nickel as the bonding agent. Um, Carbide is HARD. Much harder than ductile iron. B

Rod angle changes with stroke changes.

No. Actually the ports that count will advance.

.028, and Yes B

1. Y 2. HOT. near drag timing 3. No, unless you do a BUNCH of work like chopping them off and tricking up the head to work with them.

Is that really a question. :biggrin: :biggrin: :biggrin: B

NOt knowing your location, it still sounds like you are WAY fat on the mains. Sea level might be in the 260-290 range. Also pull your plug gap down to .020. Brandon

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hygroscopy Please see paragraph half way down regarding hydroscopic and hygroscopic. http://www.newton.dep.anl.gov/askasci/gen99/gen99896.htm I think I would start with a timing light in this matter and start with fresh fuel if fuel is older than 60 days. Brandon

:blush:

Replace the plugs. They can fail if the pipe falls off. Put pipe back on and change the plugs. Brandon

The largest problem with Nitro is it takes more than guessing to make it work right. 230psi (ie around 16:1 CR) would most certainly blow your motor sky high. The octane, stoic ratio, flash point, burn rate, latent heat of vaporization, etc must all be taken into acct and that is generally why engines blow up when "trying" it. You must adjust. Nitro creates only 5000btu/gal when compared to gasolines ar around 18,000btu/gal. However, the stoic ratio of gasoline is 14.7:1 for best efficiency and 12.5:1 for best power. Nitro creates best power at 1.3:1!! This is because of all the oxygen in Nitro so it brings it's own oxidizer to the party and needs little air to fully burn. This does not mean you want to restrict the air, this means you have to flow "serious" amounts of fuel to keep from leaning out. Anyone know what the gpm of a Nitro funny car fuel pump is?? Nitro can certainly be run in a two stroke but you should really adjust for it. Another problem with Nitro is the latent of vaporization. By pumping that much fuel in an engine, you are nearly removing all the heat from the engine through LHOV which is basically energy absorbed to turn the liquid fuel into a gas. Nitro cars rarely need external cooling because the fuel is doing it. This can play havoc trying to keep the cylinders lit since the air coming in is ice cold. There is plenty more I am leaving out but all in all, you should really understand the fuel before you dump it in your tank. Tricky fuel to work with. Brandon

Adjuster is likely welded up. Remove the center adjuster bolt and the pressure plate should come of after that. That will leave the adjuster in the clutch hub. Brandon

Where is the crack??? Makes all the difference. No, lack of oil will not cause piston cracking but it will cause seizure. Maybe a pic will help.

Thanks for the follow up. :thumbsup: Nice to get some feedback once in a while. Brandon

To answer the question, yes it does matter and I would certainly not accept cylinders in that "unfinished" state. As stated, many builders have their own "theories" but air flow laws are cold, hard fact and not subject to additional theories. Sub sonic air requires smooth contours to decrease turbulence and eddying, and to decrease the static boundary layer. Refer to commercial (NOT sonic fighter jet) air plane wings for ideas. Gas flow laws are almost opposite for sonic flow. I would recommend smoothing all radii to at least a .060 rad through the entire intake tract but sounds like they are mounted and running now. Brandon

NO, that would not be accurate. Stroking a crank, alters timing slightly due to the rod angle delta but change in minimal. Timing is relative to clocking or indexing of the flywheel relative to TDC. What does change is piston velocity and that is more relative for timing adjustments. The faster you compress the air fuel (piston velocity), the more volatile the mixture is, thus requires less timing to achieve max cylinder pressure at 20* ATDC. Head design, fuel, AFR, ambient air temp, etc, all will have an effect on what optimal timing should be. 165psi does not mean much to me in terms of engine dynamics. head design, squish clearance, CCR, and UCCR are much more relative for deciding what fuel is required. Hope that helps. Brandon

Where did you get it and did you get the detent arm installed right? There is a shoulder on the detent arm bolt that must be located properly. Night need to open the case and take another peek at the installation. Brandon

If you were already replacing the coil due to "failure", you have me wondering if something else is suspect. The OE wires will not "toast" with the voltages the Banshee coil outputs. The terminations are common enough, but not a wire failure. You can remove the wires from the coil by removing the retaining clip, trim .250" off them, and reterminate. If you have access to an oscilloscope, that would be helpful. I would be looking at the stator first here. Because the Nology uses higher resistance wires, you may be suppressing what little fire you had. Brandon

Well, I won't exactly lose sleep over it! :biggrin: