blowit

Your post is rather confusing. Did it lock up. Are you warming it up? Who did the bore work? There are too many variables to tell you, yeah, warm it up more. Bore clearance and final hone have a LOT to do with how a motor breaks in when new. Warm up for 10min when new, 5 when run in good. 1 tank of fuel for break in riding easy Use a little extra oil in the premix for the first tank. B

what is squish? :biggrin:

I am most certain he has a LR crank. Maybe I should spell that out ( "long rod crank"). LR crank with 513 pistons = 5mm above deck. Because he does not know what he has, we can only guess on this one but I am a bit worried this one might end up "making change" or end up at a local shop to get fixed. You will need 795 pistons to fix your problem. I am 99% sure you do not have a stroker motor. B

Maybe you should enlighten us as to what exactly you are building Is this a 4mm stroker. ? Should you be doing this work alone? Not wanting to be an ass here but more or less wondering if any homework was done before the crank was installed if the thought of spacer plates, head mods, deck heights was not a precursor to the project... B

Can I suggest reading my last post?? You got one poking up and one sitting flush, you have different pistons. Rods ain't gunna grow 5mm on ya Been designing engine parts more than a few days now. Check piston series. One 513 and one 795 would do er. B

We were playing around with some crankshaft setups the other day and got curious as to what all you guys use. Billet or casted? Pinned, not just welded? If so, where is yours pinned at? (seen them pinned in several places and none of them make any sense) Bearings - For you guys running big motors, are you running the TZ PTO bearing, straight cut PTO gears, both, neither?

Pistons should never travel above deck unless you are running a stroker/stock cylinder motor. Even at that, it takes 5mm of over travel to pop the ring out of the hole. What is your engine setup. You rod is not stretched but if your piston comes out that much, you certainly have a problem. LR crank with standard rod pistons (513s instead of the 795s) B

Yes, shattered clutch plates can cause missed shifts because the clutch will drag and not properly unload the transmission. There is usually a reason if the clutch hubs are breaking plates. Worn, out of tolerance, etc. Just keep an eye on it and don't hammer on it if it does not shift in the future and just get the clutch issue corrected. I just say that because I see too many bikes that have a simple problem but through beer and frustration, the problem is largely amplified. Dun it myself. :biggrin: B

I have not studied the situation as of yet but I would like some general plumbing components should somewhat get the problem solved. I would likely want to build my components from SS to reduce an corrosion concerns from Methanol. I will agree, a bowl without an overflow is NOT a good idea. B

pardon my typo, I did mean dump tube and no, I am referring to a vertical tube from the bottom of the carb. If you look at a stock bowl, you will see a vertical brass tube inside that you have to weasel around the floats. That is the overflow dump tube. Referred to as such because needle/seat fail to stop the fuel flow for some reason, it will "dump" the fuel on the ground, rather than in your engine. Every single carb made should have this built in. Just a smart idea. B

It would all be relative to your float level. Many times if you drill at the top of your bowls, that will not be high enough and fuel will leak out constantly. drilling the carb body at the highest point in the bowl area or adding a dumb tube from the bottom would be a better solution. Without doing the math, I would estimate a 3/16 dumb tube would be needed. B

We do not keep the billet bowls in stock. Let me know which carbs you are playing with and such. If someone wants to send over some R&D goods to examine, I will build a solution for the problem. Might PM me with some more details and a few pics and I can probably get you taken care of. We may just build the billet bowls from scratch. Not sure. B

I would recommend drilling your own over flows into the carbs so this does not happen again. talk about a 5cent item causing 1K in damage. Carb vents up top will not prevent this but an over flow in the bowl will. You can also drill the bottom of the bowls and install your own dump tubes but make sure they will flow ENOUGH fuel. B

R we gunna get the results of the race or is the silence of this thread enough? I am curious. B

:thumbsup: X2 !! Additionally, you will lose power every single time when your silencer is NOT packed because you are creating more turbulence in the silencer without packing. There is now a huge void in the silencer behind the perforated core of the silencer stinger and that will really jacking things up. Sounds like someone just wants an excuse to make a bunch of noise. :laugh: To reiterate, there is not "increase" in flow performance without packing. Actually just the opposite. If the air leaving the pipe was sonic, it might not matter but sonic air in an engine only occurs just outside the exhaust port and then quickly cools to become sub-sonic again. B

G/Y is the rev limit circuit of the CDI invoked by the parking brake switch. When G/Y is NOT grounded to chassis or otherwise the B wire of the harness, the CDI should perform normal function. Inversely, if G/Y is connected to B or chassis ground, the CDI spark performance shall be limited to 2,300rpm. The bike should exhibit a normal start and run condition with the G/Y wire not hooked to anything. Puzzling. I would certainly take another look at grounds. Remember that ground from engine to chassis must be solid and is commonly missed when a frame is painted or powdered. B

All the pickups you are testing should work just fine. They are a very simple design, they do NOT have any power going to them from the CDI. They produce a voltage spike as part of a hysteresis circuit by bringing a magnetized ferrous object near the sensor. The voltage going back to the CDI is around .8V. This does not affect spark performance. It is merely a triggering mechanism. Anything close to 100ohms should work just fine. Not grounding a CDI can kill them because the device is not able to properly shunt voltage to ground, thus can over heat or over volt. Without looking, I do not remember the green/yellow wire but your problems still seem fishy. The brake (rev limit) circuit should not prohibit starting. Other circuits would just kill the bike. I will look at the wire in question but I still suggest looking over those grounds really well. Brandon

As the title says. looking for a head shell. No domes needed. Something that will accept PD domes but do not want the PD shell. Any condition considered.

Believe what I say, 99% of problems associated with the injection system is either a deteriorated oil line or some "crafty" mechanic has had there hands on it and things are not plumbed right. The oil pump is almost bullet proof. PTO driven, geared design, etc. Once you study the setup, there is very little to go wrong except the rubber lines. Again, I am not a huge injection fan but you really have to think about that drunk blonde that might "do you a favor" and have her "other" boyfriend fill it up after an all afternoon disappearance. Then hand you the key and say "it will not start for some reason". We got all the funny ass stories at the stealership. Boat people are another (airy) breed. :biggrin: B

I am not sure what you are "changing" for 250 bucks but terminating the injection is as simple as unplugging it. "zero" dollars. I am not exactly touting my dealership experience but I did get to see most of the common problems with boats. Sounds like you are reaching for the pliers already to unplug it so get with it. :biggrin: BUT, when your girl friend/drunk buddies/guy on the other side of the cove that is just helping out/etc dumps straight gas in your boat because 99% of them run injection, you will get your "justification for modification". Again, I am not a huge fan of the injection but what I listed is VERY common but if you will have complete control of your ride, things should work fine. B

Worked in a stealership for 6 years but do what you wish. I know Yamaha would love you if you followed the book to the letter. To say that the oil injection causes engine failure would be ridiculous. Those boats are getting old and hoses wear out. Lack of maint can kill any boat. Lack of oil ruins engines, not oil injection. B

The hose kit for the skies are designed only to flush out salt water from the water system of the ski, not to be run out of the water. Dumping cold water in an engine can create big problems. I recommend running for no more than 30sec intervals out of water, then getting it in the water or a test tank as the pump pressurizes the water in the motor to reduce air pocket concerns. The RA1100 motor was a 110HP motor out of the box but can be easily tweaked to 150HP. The wave raiders had a pretty narrow hull which reduced drag at top speed thus they can get some good top end but suffer in stability. Personally, even though I am not a huge fan of oil injection, it is a very smart invention and I would leave it on. Those things use enough oil and fuel as it is. Reducing oil use at idle is important for plug fouling issues as well. I will agree that the whole system could be turned down just a touch. Yamaha really puts the oil to them out of the box but the motors last forever. B

He said .2 ohms and that would be enough to cause big problems with any motor/stator/winding testing. .2 ohms is a lot for inductive circuits. B

When the reeds leak, this allows a "double dipping" situation in where the air fuel mixture is rejected back through the reeds, into the carbs and is charged with more fuel. This over richens the mixture. Very important to have the reed pedals sealing properly. B

I am betting the coil is fine. You have other issues. Again, hard to put much faith in a cheapy meter. Their accuracy is next to nothing. Pretty much like putting faith in some Harbor freight sockets and then complaining that all your bolts are rounded off so the bolts must be junk. IMO, this day in age (electronics age), it is important to have a quality meter that tests accurately. Your very first test in putting the two leads together and not getting zero tells you right there what you are dealing with. B