blowit

AV gas is totally different and maintains properties of gasoline so jetting will be close. Methanol (aka, Methyl Hydrate), as mentioned, will require serious carb mods to run. As also mentioned, if you are not familiar with running alky, do not mess with it. I have plenty of experience with all alkies, Nitro, propane, you name it. Unless you "love" to work on your bike and get every ounce out of it, don;t bother. Better to get some porting, cylinders, head, pipes, etc, and enjoy. B

Drop spark plug gap to .020. :thumbsup: Too much timing will act very good on the bottom and fall off on the top instead of rev out. That is generally when you run into denotation and kill the top end too. I recommend you pull back on the timing until you get your fuel/spark/jetting issues resolved, then put more timing back in. Your 19cc domes should be just fine with race fuel. With good porting and pipes, you could need a 330-370 main jet or even bigger. B

:yelrotflmao: I already gots me a few of those around here.... They work pretty good. Even have some of the "deep dish" variety. B

That is just funny right there! :yelrotflmao: B

It is my understanding that Methyl Hydrate is a fabbed up word for diluted Methanol with water. If you are buying something that says Methyl Hydrate, it would be a good idea to check the actual concentration level. Methanol is very funny regarding octane because it's octane does not account for the latent heating effects of the fuel. The fuel uses energy in the form of heat when it is transformed from a liquid to a gas (most obvious in refrigerants for ACs). This is obvious by the drastically lowered engine operating temps. This is partly why Methanol can handle much higher comp ratios than are typically calculated. 20:1 is not uncommon. Because of the oxygen content of Methanol, you will need to jet WAY up to run the fuel. If you are not experienced with it, I recommend staying away. It can be difficult to use. If you require only 94 octane and cannot get it, I recommend either blending 10% race fuel or lowering comp ratio or ignition advance to run the lower octanes. By the way, where do you get "wiseco high comp pistons"? B

Not from the engine. I am trying to think of anything on the chassis and it possibly looks like a shim/spacer from the front tank mounts that someone fabbed or found. There is no pin like that in the engine. B

Why don'y you just pull the guts out of the clutch entirely and fire it with just the basket in place? At least get the lock up hub, plates, and trans out of the equation. B

HOLY SHIT!!! I have some that are pretty hacked up in here but that takes the cake!!! You win!!!!!! You get to buy new cylinders now!!! If this guy does not give your money back, send them to me and I will do a formal write up on the port durations with pics and such so you can take him to court. My god that is bad!!! You can really tell they did not care when doing it. Sorry to hear you took such a loss here. I really doubt they can be saved but my offer still stands to look them over free and see what I can do. I DO like a challenge...... B

Yes it can be repaired but probably not cost effectively if you send it off. We have done several like with good results. You can do it yourself if you understand TIR and machinist lingo. You will have to first press the thing into width tolerance, then get the TIR down below .001", then weld, then recheck true. You would have to make a simple stand and get some mag bases and indicators for the job though. B

Liquid fuel does not like to light up like a vapor will. It is possible you were just snuffing the spark. Might try some spray carb cleaner and see if it will try to light on that. Also, a comp test is much more helpful on a thumper because it will tell if you your cam chain has slipped or something. Low numbers can go many directions but at least if all cards are lined up, you will get good comp out of them. Bent valve don't pump up compression very well....... B

Actually, clean, foam and pleated are pretty close and it mostly depends on the filter prep (oil). Foams are just easy to over load and plug in that way. Dirty, foam is the clear winner. The cell network of foam performs nicely. That being said, foam has always been a pain to clean and use thus the reason gauze has been the main choice for years. That and K&N marketing has really pushed the popularity. I should not that this data is only from our in house testing and other tests may have a different opinion. B

Remember too that air volume through an air filter will be rated with the filter is "clean" so matching engine requirements to an air filter will usually cause restrictions when dirty. With that in mind, the OEMs know this and you will find out that it does not take much air filter to actually "match" the requirements of an engine. The ones we sell will pass enough air to feed a small block chevy when clean. What is irritating about pleated filters is their drastic drop in performance when dirty. I still use them but have to give the nod to foam filtration. B

Sounds like a typical electrical issue. CDIs will do this for sure so you may want to swap with someone to try. Also, check ALL connections around the battery. They have several that are prone to issues. Also make sure the engine is tight in the chassis so there is a good ground reference from engine the chassis. Also, wires are common to get abraised in the harness from the stator coming out of the motor. Check all of that. If it cuts out like a light switch, bet on electrical. Also, those too have the parking brake switch and that could be doing it. make sure it is adjusted right or deleted. B

That is rather respectable David. :thumbsup: I too would recommend just buying from Noss. How much time are you wasting sourcing them? Brandon

I have not had a problem with the Wiseco pistons in a long time though we do check every single one before installation. You are certainly paying attention to the details. I have had JE and other piston OEM sizing issues with the YFZ450s on big bore goods but nothing yet on the Banshee. It does rather suck that the plate thickness of the NiSiC os so thin that you can rarely hone to spec if needed. My recommendation is to buy the pistons and measure them before installing. If they are not right, call Wiseco and bitch at them but make sure your numbers are accurate. IME, we see about +/-.0001 with Wiseco pistons as of the last few years. I am not really defending them and I think some of their forgings are a little light but their tolerances seem pretty on lately. B

Not really. Increased piston speed and travel increases wear on components and that is what you get from a stroker. However, I will agree that the 4mm motors can be built to very reliable specs. I think I have only seen one of our 4mm motors back for inspection this year. Probably did 75 of them last year. They hold up pretty well. B

I think you are on the right track :thumbsup: any of the 4000 series steels with those dims will hold ya just fine. Buckling should not an issue unless you decide to try and jump with them on. :wink: If you do not wash your bike much, you can polish those struts to a mirror and leave them. They should hold a nice finish for quite some time. B

I have a good friend and customer that has had the same 350 motor by us for 8 yrs and still runs perfect. Probably about 250+ hours on the motor. Build them right and warm them up right, and they can last a long time. B

We just need the tank for mock up of some new products. dents and scratches are fine. Does not even need to hold fuel. Cheap works best. Thanks

I wouldn't get too cranked up about redoing the motor. With the stock cast pistons, you likely are still in tolerance and may just need rings at the worst. Yes, the adapter tip of the comp tester will cause a serious drop in comp. I would almost advise to add your domes and run it! I have seen stock motors go for many years without problems. Remember that Yamaha "wants" you to rebuild at 40-50 hrs, and of course with "their" pistons and such. B

bump. Can anyone help? Hate to order new ones just to look at.

Usable power is finishes off before 9K. 10K is a good spooling motor, 11K is getting it on a small bore motor..... B

I heard it really helps keep you cool this time of year.. :biggrin: B

Reeds, carbs plugged, piston dropped a skirt, head gasket blown, ...... Lots of possibilities.. :biggrin:

Bet on it. I have seen probably 50 bikes in over the years because they just lose power, jetting is off, etc. People clean the pre filters but do not blow air through them because it is a no no for the gauze filters. Those pre filter pores will plug up easily. Foam filtration wins hands down. I will admit the outerwears look better though... B